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Puffwagon's Territory Adventures


Puffwagon

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  • Puff
  • Gold Donating Members
  • Member For: 9y 2m 21d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: South Australia

Added more 98, E33 now. Pulled timing to where I know it's safe, minimum boost after 5k went up to 27psi. I'll chuck the knock ears on soon to dial it in better, pretty sure I've left 30 to 50kw on the table.

 

Fuel economy has improved about 20% at cruise and bang on 100% at wot lol.

 

Softened up the trans in a spot that it needed, forgot to listen for it but it didn't bang into gear so must have worked lol.

Edited by Puffwagon
Why not?
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  • Member
  • Member For: 5y 4m 16d
  • Location: New zealand

@PuffwagonMy boost control is bypassing the stock boost solenoid. Tube straight off alloy intercooler pipe about 4 inches after compressor outlet, my ts45mm gate has 19psi of springs in it, car boosts 16psi at 2500rpm till 4700rpm then falls to 14psi to recline. Do you think if I instead run a tube off inlet manifold to wg it will hold 16psi? Also not that im worried but do you think the wg valve is getting pushed open a little by the exhaust gasses causing it to only boost 16psi instead of 19psi? Youve already advised me not to boost it more cos it's getting full boost at low rpm and may bend rods. 

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  • Puff
  • Gold Donating Members
  • Member For: 9y 2m 21d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: South Australia

There is some pressure loss through the intercooler so you will pick up boost everywhere by running off the manifold. It'll have the same curve, just higher. You will always have it fall over like that with manual boost control, with a couple of exceptions. To have a flat line of boost, you need a closed loop electronic boost controller to ramp up the duty cycle as the engine speed increases.

 

Back pressure pushes on the gate all the time when accelerating, the more you push the turbo the more exhaust manifold pressure is created.

 

The only fix for your car is a proper tune. I don't want to recommend anything else, when your car has a kick arse boost controller built into the pcm.

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  • Member For: 5y 4m 16d
  • Location: New zealand

Sweet thanks, my tuna couldn't get stock ecu boost control to behave, neither could another tuna. Jet said he could do a remote tune for a small fortune which I couldn't justify or afford, so for free I ran it straight off gate and it's mint apart from not having ecu protection. Will it still go into limp if it detects overboost or detonation ?

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  • Puff
  • Gold Donating Members
  • Member For: 9y 2m 21d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: South Australia

Your car still has overboost protection, it depends where the tuner set it. I'm sure they left the knock sensors on, you certainly should for a customer car. It won't go into limp mode, it'll just cut cylinders for overboost and removing timing for knock events.

 

It's actually very easy to dial in boost control when you know how and the folks over at PCMTec are very helpful, myself included sometimes :roflmbo:

Edited by Puffwagon
Got smacked with the tardle stick.
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  • Member For: 5y 11m 11d

your allways helpful to me 😛

 

3 hours ago, Slowxr6t said:

@PuffwagonMy boost control is bypassing the stock boost solenoid. Tube straight off alloy intercooler pipe about 4 inches after compressor outlet, my ts45mm gate has 19psi of springs in it, car boosts 16psi at 2500rpm till 4700rpm then falls to 14psi to recline. Do you think if I instead run a tube off inlet manifold to wg it will hold 16psi? Also not that im worried but do you think the wg valve is getting pushed open a little by the exhaust gasses causing it to only boost 16psi instead of 19psi? Youve already advised me not to boost it more cos it's getting full boost at low rpm and may bend rods. 

Do you need a larger rear housing on your turbo?

I had issues when I built my first na+t and had a 3582 with a 82 rear. It had a 7 psi spring and would hit that instantly, but only be able to hold 3-4 psi in top end. 

Adding manual boost control got the curve to move higher but still had same drop off.

Moving to standard rear housing gave me a solid boost line.

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  • Member For: 5y 4m 16d
  • Location: New zealand

@BeerTurbo I definitely wouldn't think so. I've got 400kw so no where near needing bigger exhaust housing. 4 inch dump so it breathes well. 3582r .70 comp housing, stock 1.06 exh housing with wg plumbed off housing. Goes very well. 

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  • Puff
  • Gold Donating Members
  • Member For: 9y 2m 21d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: South Australia

Haha I've already sent it way past where it should have been. The injectors were at 100% at only 34psi, I turned it up to 38 to 40psi on the dyno and ran it lean as it could be, while staying on the edge of being safe. It was at 12.3:1 at that boost level, I ain't about to turn it up more and melt it down for no reason.

 

It will be sent again, when I can afford the extra $8000 it cost to build a balls to the wall fuel system.

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