FG xr6t little to no boost, new battery, stalling

[Parralegend]

Hi all,

 

Long story short my mrs was cleaning her car last saturday and when she tried to take it out of the driveway BAM engine immobiliser warning etc etc. I knew immediately it would be a flat battery so I went to supercheap and grabbed a new century 640cca slapped it in and though nothing else of it.

 

So the next day the mrs drove it to work and said it felt down on power and stalled when pulling up to lights and when reversing into our driveway. So my immediate thought was a possible boost leak, so I drove it around and notice the bov (50/50 turbosmart)was not active at all unless stepping on it but all I had was a giant dosing falcon.

 

The mrs then drove it and it went into a low powered limp mode with a cel. First code was a b1318 low voltage and then a boost sensor code p023d(may have been me unplugging the map when having a quick look over the intake).

 

Just spent the day pulling apart the intake and charge pipes to check for abnormalities, doing the wd40 clean on the boost solenoid and also changing all the spark plugs(really made thinga difficult with the spark plug closest to the firewall socket getting stuck). Done a relearn in and went for a drive. Still have some sh*tty idle when free revving( it drops and comes close to stalling in reverse) and I have 0 boost although still driveable.

 

I checked the codes and got p1128 wastegate stuck open p0328 boost sensor a high between two drives.

 

Im a bit lost on what to do but my two main problems are:

 

1. No boost which I think could indicate the solenoid had sh1t itself or the wiring to the solenoid(im guessing p0328 boost sensor is the solenoid)

2. Idle and stalling which I think may be alternator related I will be using a multimetre to get another readout

 

As its not my daily I thought everything was hunky dory although the mrs said it was running a bit rough if she didnt let it warm up in the morning and I thought ok fair enough problem just some routine ignition and injector servicing might fix that. I just cant believe a battery faults turned into this lol.

 

Any helps would be highly appreciated

[k31th]

well, a wastegate flap being stuck open could definitely cause you to have basically zero boost... but it could be a bunch of other things, too...

 

when people "wd40 the solenoid" that means not to spray it up the solenoid, but rather the piping to and from the solenoid to ensure some gets into the wastegate.

 

everything else you're talking about, e.g. running rough and stalling when it's cold, sounds like a vacuum leak.

[Parralegend]

Thankyou for the reply Keith. My apologies if the post was a little hard to read, I just blurted everything out that came to mind but I was also tired lol.

 

 

The stalling has started literally since the battery change. Im thinking I will do a boost leak test on it as well but my thought was it could be related to low power with injectors/zf when shifting to reverse from lack of alternator power.

 

I have to admit I did do a bit of reading across here and seen people discussing earthing issues causing problems as well but would the easiest way be to check if the earthing wire is getting hot?

 

In reg to the solenoid well I felt I had read the procedure to clean it out through wd40 in the plastic end. Easy fix ill grab a new solenoid but I was also going to try just run gate pressure to see if indeed ive got a potential wastegate issue.

Edited 05/06/20 08:37 PM by Parralegend

[El Andrew]

Yep connect the compressor housing directly to the wastegate to check if the solenoid is the problem - should run about 8 psi like this (wastegate pressure). If it boosts to 8 psi fine you likely have a solenoid issue. They are only about $40.

If thatdoesnt work - If you disconnect the compressor housing line altogether and drive it, it should boost to the moon under load if the wastegate isn't stuck open and you don't have a boost leak. Be careful - be ready to jump off the throttle as soon as it makes boost pressure as you don't want to break the motor.

Given the timing of the issue emerging, I'd double check you battery leads are nice and tight on the new battery - if you haven't already.

Those codes basically mean the PCM isn't detecting as much boost as it expects so helps you start looking but doesn't necessarily mean it is those components.

[k31th]

also, it's fine to get a bit of wd40 into the solenoid itself, but doesn't really help things as much as people think, as those solenoids don't have to do a lot of accurate work compared to the wastegate diaphragm itself.

[JETURBO]

17 hours ago, Parralegend said:

Hi all,

 

I bought a new century 640cca Battery slapped it in and though nothing else of it.
 

but it’s the cause of all my issues, everyone knows century battery's cause havoc on the later model falcon platform But very few will share this information....I’ve pissed it off and put in a Exide X56DMF and all my issues went away 

Cheers

[k31th]

[Parralegend]

30 minutes ago, JETURBO said:

Cheers

Lol I dont remember writing that but im happy to go replace it. Way better than chasing my tail lol

[k31th]

it's just a way that forum humour happens... edits of other people's posts to show "accuracy" or something else humourous.

[Parralegend]

Ive got not doubt about some of the truth to it :). 

 

I Have a further 2 questions.

 

1. Is The boost solenoid compressor line to the solid metal tube (inlet) and the plastic tube (outlet) to the wastegate?

 

2. Boost pressure sensor do they exist in the FG and if so is it located just above where the charged pipe meets the intercooler(battery right hand lower side)?

 

Thanks once again for the replies guys. Love these cars and wealth of knowledge on this forum will help in the future for this car no doubt