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Built BTR Prices and Shops, Brisbane


purxr6t

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  • Member For: 3y 11m 15d

Can anyone recommend any good places to build a BTR in Brisbane?

Or is it worth getting one built by DTM and pay the shipping?

 

Have quotes from one shop of $2400-$2600 ( who didn't seem to know how to use the earlier planetaries,)

 

Another quote for a stage 2 rebuilt for $1450.

 

So what's a good price for a stage 2 rebuild?

How much do DTM charge?

 

Have 2 e-series boxes in parts with planetaries drums, stage 2 valvebody etc. so may have some parts that can be used.

But the first shop said some bush or bearing was different, so earlier planetaries couldn't be used easily,

 Stating that Center cradle would need to be changed, etc,

And no-one effing does that.

 

Also got my stage 2 valvebody fitted by the first shop,

Which chirped 3rd, and they didn't really understand what was done to it, so want to steer clear of them.

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  • less WHY; more WOT
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  • Member For: 16y 9d
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  • Location: Melbourne

it's always worth paying for a good quality gearbox builder when going for power and then taking a small extra hit on the shipping.

 

:Welcome2FordXR6t:

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  • Member For: 3y 11m 15d

People often talk in riddles when it's about Ford's.

If it wasn't a BTR, 

The info would all be out there on how to mod them:

the BAR and CAR circuit mods,

Which holes to enlarge etc.

 

know about the s3 s4 shiftkit, etc.

 

But have also had a modded valvebody,

In a E-Series  that chirped 3rd,

in an otherwise stock Transmission,

That still gave engine braking and felt strong for many years or hard driving and towing.

It shifted similarly to the s3 s4 shiftkit. Very hard.

 

Anyone that knows what price and where is any good?

Any near Brisbane?

Cheers

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  • Member For: 10y 2m 7d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: SW Sydney

@purxr6t are you and @kassan2020 one and the same?

 

BTR builds are few and far between on this forum compared to the ZF but they are out there if you look.

 

Turns out I posted something similar nearly a year ago

 

I know squat about BTR's but one general rule seems to be #dontgotorvo

 

 

Edit

thread below may be useful, would suggest Prestons or DTM are proven

 

hope it helps

Edited by camo86T
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  • Member For: 3y 11m 15d

Nah, not the same person,

 

Have read most of the BTR threads,

Still the BTR is a hard thing to find good info on.

Even with two vavlebodies beside eachother,

One being a stage 2,

it is not easy to spot differences.

 

Don't want to throw money at it,

Would rather get it done right the first time.

 

Pretty sure it was a place called ATW that did the e-series valvebody,

Don't know if they are still around, 

But it was great.

 

A place called T and JW Fabrications is doing reco BTR's for $1450 exchange.

 

So this is how it happened.

Trans went after going for a drive up the mountains,

D and coolant light flashing,

So trans temp?

Then lost all gears other than 3rd on the way back.

Had to stop a couple of times,

But got home.

Took off pan,

and there is a  bit of brass and metal in the pan.

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  • 3 weeks later...
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  • Member For: 3y 11m 15d

$3300 from DTM for one that can be used tiptronic only.

Seems a bit, but they run the numbers.

 

Some on E-bay for $2700 - $2950,

One used to be quoted as handling 400 rwkw.

Other quotes from $1450 to $2500.

 

Everyones booked out for fitting around here,

And most need the exchange to build.

 

How hard is it to remove on stands or ramps?

Done a few e-series but not one of these...

Cheers

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  • Member For: 8y 11m 28d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Canberra ACT

BTR is pretty straightforward on stands. On my old BA I lowered it on a jack on to a piece of timber with castors to help get it out from under the car. If you've done it on an E series I reckon you'll be fine. They aren't that big compared to say a ZF.

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  • Member For: 3y 11m 15d

Cheers,

Got one bolt left on the tailshaft,

Starter motor is already out,

should be smooth sailing from there...

 

Trying to do it without removing the exhaust,

as the bolts are pretty tight and corroded, so don't want to break any.

 

Will need to get the car up pretty high on stands,

to get it out...

Edited by purxr6t
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