Jump to content
BoostedG6E

Walbro 460 Wiring

Recommended Posts

Hey all, I’ve currently got an issue with my wiring going to the cradle. Few weeks ago I had a massive fuel leak coming from the cradle I originally changed the cradle O Ring thinking it was that but turns out the bulkheads I have on the cradle have melted on the power end and has actually melted the little rubber gasket on the bulkhead. So had a look and realised the earth installed wasn’t in the greatest spot (yellow circle marked on the photo) so I have now ran the earth straight from the battery to the chassis under the seat (Same earth spot marked before) and ran the earth to the relay and earth for the pump off that. And now I have melted the earth side on the cradle really bad as seen in the photo. The big bolt on the cradle was the previous whole that melted so I just put a bolt through it to cover it. I’m getting a new cradle today and am really hoping to not use these bulkheads anymore how are people running it from the relay to the pump cause I don’t really hear a lot of people using bulkheads. And also any help of trying to diagnose why I’m melting these wires. I’m running thicker gauge wire all the way from the battery (Earth) and also from the starter motor for the power.

 

 

d0f22b4d655d2daf516a8ccf4ca0024f.jpg

 

 

9cda2b4d1206c47a921ee8d2ed3d1d20.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Which cable are you referring to? The thin cable that’s next to the cradle cover is going back to the relay just to earth it, the thicker one is the one which goes to the pump. The thicker one is 6 gauge

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

6 gauge I doubt, 6mm² maybe.
6 gauge is 16mm², you wouldnt be using those crimp terminals if that were the case.

Have you checked to confirm its getting 12v when the cars idling?
The 460s can pull a fair amount of current at 12v, any voltage drop amd it'll want to draw alot more.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry but which wire are you referring to?

Yes I’ve checked it and it’s definitely getting 12v

 

Could it potentially be a issue with the earth spot even though I’m running earth from the battery to that spot? Since I’ve changed the earth spot now the power wire is fine. Just the earth is the issue

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

6 gauge is overkill.  Whats max current.  30 amps.  ??

10 gauge will be fine for the pump power circuit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah that's how I had it the first time and that's when it melted the power wire, Since then I've got it from the battery now and its melted the earth now. 

 

b6e64fc3bae61d54844973cbfadb2cc9.jpg
That’s the photo when I first burnt the power side.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can anyone shed some light on another way to power the pump from the relay without the bulkheads? Are people just taking the power and ground wires out of the standard plug then putting the new power/ground into that same plug?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

maybe you need a better quality fuel through pot connection block. they just look like stainless studs. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for that that's looks like a better option, Do you think that alone could solve the issue of it melting? should I be wiring it up any different than I am currently?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Something is wrong to draw excess current. You need to determine why.

 

All you need is + feed from battery to relay (fused.). Relay triggered from factory fuel pump +.  All earths ground at the chassis near tank. Easy. 

 

Is the rubber seal compressing after install allowing the connection to loosen?? 

 

541319d1409110942-fd-fuel-pump-re-wire-t

 

The best connections use double nut.

 

V3_subaru_hanger_3.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think you've got it mate, because each time its melted, the connection has been lose, I was never sure weather it came lose first or once it was already melted but I think potentially its come lose and caused it to draw more power then melted and cause there is no fuse on the power wire it has just melted the cradle. That double nut fittings looks like a winner where did you see that one ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Found them.

 

http://www.radiumauto.com/Electrical-Bulkhead-Stud-Kit-6-Pack-P1049.aspx

 

 

"I think you've got it mate, because each time its melted, the connection has been lose, I was never sure weather it came lose first or once it was already melted but I think potentially its come lose and caused it to draw more power then melted and cause there is no fuse on the power wire it has just melted the cradle"

 

that's why I get paid the BIG bucks. 

 

 

RadiumProd-1077.jpg

Edited by arronm

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

At the risk of pointing out the obvious you don't need insulated bulkhead connectors to go through a thermoplastic Pump Module.

 

Double R Ron is the metallologist and will be able to explain why zinc/nickel coated studs/bolts  won't be the best conductors (something about surface conduction or something vs a whole conductors) but if I was you I'd get some good old black steel m6 bolts and nuts, install quality crimps and use the black steel bolts to secure them.

 

I use https://www.efihardware.com/products/1593/submersible-pump-bulk-head-terminals to run my TWIN intank 460's but had changed to black steel bolts purely due to the thickness of my fuel tank hat.

 

 

Buy Aussie Bro

 

 

lol thickness.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...