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16 minutes ago, violetpop said:

One minute its had an easy life in a ba wagon, next minute

 

On 25/08/2020 at 5:00 PM, Puffwagon said:

Yerp that will give you part of a stock rebuild. I looked at this option and then I thought well fark if I'm going to spend $500 on pistons I may as well spend enough and get some forged pistons, then I thought well fark it, I'll get upgraded pins too then I thought fark it and got I beam rods too.

 

While it's out and apart; You'll want better rods too, so they'll need sizing and the crank will need linnishing, then you may as well get oil pump gears, then you may as well get main studs which will mean line honing, and if you're getting it line honed then you may as well get a girdle and get the main caps machined to suit, then you may as well do the flex plate cos you may as well while it's out, then you'll want to at least deck the head, then you may as well get the seats re cut while you're there and get a decent set of springs in it, so you may as well get a full atomic timing kit, and of course you'll be forking out for a full vrs kit which will mean that you may as well get a better head gasket, then you may as well get head studs too cos it's only an extra $250, then you may as well get a balancer cos the stock ones are sh*te, then for all that bullsh*t you may as well buy a giant turbo and if you've got a giant turbo then you'll need a beastly fuel system and then you'll put the whole lot together, break your transmission, replace that, break the diff, replace that, go through a set of tyres and axles every 2 weeks and eventually wish that you'd just bought a honda civic and paid off the mortgage instead.

 

But yeah, nothing wrong with a stock rebuild :)

 

NEK MINUTE :doc1:

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The standard head gasket is completely fine for a LOT of horsepower, the only reason I would 'upgrade' that gasket from a standard Ford gasket would be to do fire rings, otherwise the only upgrade needed on the head would be the studs themselves.

 

I feel like I have proven the standard gasket goes pretty well throwing 40 plus psi at it without any issues.

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Got the rest of the car back together last night and went for a successful road test! Got the cooling system sorted first and got the pressure tester on it while I was doing other things. No leaks! Could it have just been the gasket? Maybe... The car didnt miss a beat on the easy going hour long road test and only time will tell if things hold up. plan is to check things over today and see how everything looks.

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Been researching radiators and for a good reason. It appears someone has fitted an early ba possibly xt radiator at some point.

I've driven the car again and gradually increased the boost. The car rips but it rips to the point where I think its over boosting. Blew the hose off the throttle body twice but getting on it, it starts to turn the tyres so easy in second which it didnt do before.

A minute from home, the radiator top hose outlet gave up and the temp started to shoot up just as was coasting into the drive way. Managaned to cool it down pretty quick but what a frantic minute it was. Big fail.. So looks like new rad will be happening sooner rather than later and then move on to working out where all this crazy power has come from.bd345c47f5fc72084c4a87514086a526.jpg

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400rwkw will spin up easily in second. Was the dyno sheet from its actual last run on the dyno. I'd say that's when the problem started and we all know how bike riders like to limiter bash all the time 😁. You might have been down on power when you picked it up and just got worse over time. Is it pinging, have you got a boost gauge on it? 

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@violetpop Fenix sell a 50mm aluminium radiator for $440, maybe that's worth a try? Or the standard BA/BF XR6 turbo radiator should be 26mm but we sell a 26 and a 32mm thick core from either Adrad or Motogear.

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Yeah I saw the fenix rad, looks like a nice bit. Was wondering about clearance issues. Will probably end up with a stock 32mm replacement at this stage.

 

3 hours ago, adams355 said:
400rwkw will spin up easily in second. Was the dyno sheet from its actual last run on the dyno. I'd say that's when the problem started and we all know how bike riders like to limiter bash all the time . You might have been down on power when you picked it up and just got worse over time. Is it pinging, have you got a boost gauge on it? 

It says run #18 on the sheet. It feels the fastest its ever been. When I picked it up, it would dance on the tyres when getting on it but this is full blown wheel spin and then the hose pops off. I've got 2, pillar mounted and through the torque app. Highest registered was 16psi but again not accurate as the hose comes off. I didn't have a single issue with the hose since fitting it the way jet suggested and about 3 months driving since the tune. I will have to sort the rad out and look at it again. No ping detected.

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Yeah I saw the fenix rad, looks like a nice bit. Was wondering about clearance issues. Will probably end up with a stock 32mm replacement at this stage.
It fits just fine, I've got mine sitting in the engine bay but I can trial fit the fans and let you know? I was going to change balancer before I fitted the radiator but happy to test fit if you're curious?
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If you need me to test it just let me know, I'm a long way off reassembly haha. You'll probably pay somewhere between $250-$350 for a stock radiator, that's why I went with the Fenix one. It's worth the investment

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10 minutes ago, violetpop said:
22 minutes ago, adams355 said:
400rwkw will spin up easily in second. Was the dyno sheet from its actual last run on the dyno. I'd say that's when the problem started and we all know how bike riders like to limiter bash all the time emoji16.png. You might have been down on power when you picked it up and just got worse over time. Is it pinging, have you got a boost gauge on it? 

It says run #18 on the sheet. It feels the fastest its ever been. When I picked it up, it would dance on the tyres when getting on it but this is full blown wheel spin and then the hose pops off. I've got 2, pillar mounted and through the torque app. Highest registered was 16psi but again not accurate as the hose comes off. I didn't have a single issue with the hose since fitting it the way jet suggested and about 3 months driving since the tune. I will have to sort the rad out and look at it again. No ping detected.

Yea I'm not blaming the tuner at all just it might have started the issue on a minor level at that time. Yea 16 on torque app is fine, it can be up to 2-3psi high unless you change some of the settings when you have a proper gauge on it or on the dyno. Jut keep an eye on it I guess.

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Entirely possible Puff. Fresh plugs and gap set yes, Didnt see anything extremely obvious but the inlet manifold bolts were not as tight as what I did them up to when I put the engine in probably that crappy gasket settling in. Will monitor when things get moving again and I can get this hose to stay on.

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Well the cooling side of things are spot on now but the car sure is over boosting.

Foot down 3rd gear and I got out of it straight away. The way the boost came on so quick and strong I backed off immediately. Look down over 20psi then look back to see my rods on the road, nothing luckily.

Pulled up at the servo and bypassed the boost solenoid and run it on spring pressure and it kept solid on just under 16.

Something has happened and I can't exactly figure out why.. Possibly the engine was hurt right from buying it from the wrecker or as puff mentioned that I fixed something. Either way some dyno time will be in order to correct the issue and this will be the perfect time to lower the boost down to 12 psi or so.

For now I plan leave the solenoid disconnected. 96541370a419cde451aed18b9978b37e.jpgeea7cab0cdd3f37ea54131db9356b729.jpg

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if you've bypassed the solenoid and you're making 16psi you won't be able to go under 16psi without changing the actuator or it's pre-load settings.

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What spring have you got in actuator 15-16? This happened to mine once it was the dodgy solenoid which weirdly was working fine, then I had my turbo rebuilt and I put it back on and then it was dead. But I thought yours was tuned to 13-14 or something. Strange.

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What spring have you got in actuator 15-16? This happened to mine once it was the dodgy solenoid which weirdly was working fine, then I had my turbo rebuilt and I put it back on and then it was dead. But I thought yours was tuned to 13-14 or something. Strange.
I haven't opened it up to confirm the spring but it was supplied as the 12psi version. At the last tune it was tuned at around 15.5 pounds and stayed solid at that boost level until just now since I did the head gasket. I changed the solenoid about a year ago so it hasn't done much work.
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