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Over boosting

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So your post has got me thinking.

Could I possibly get a after market boost controller like the gfb 3.0 and just set the over boost value too 10psi then it would in theory stop the turbo spooling past 10 psi effectively stoping my boost cut issuse?

On a side note I would rather have the car running at about 12 psi, is there any possible way of disabling the ecu boost cut or tricking the ecu into thinking it's running lower psi?

How does the ecu measure boost? Could I possibly disconnect a sensor so the ecu can't read boost or will the cause a running issue?

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There is no shortcutting this. The ECU, with its boost and map pressure sensors, is already effectively an electronic boost controller.

If you had a way to trick the ECU you would be adding boost without the required fuel and timing map changes. This will very likely break your motor.

The only safe way to add boost is to get the car properly tuned which will update all if the required maps in the ECU.

While you can do this on stock hardware, it would make sense to also make any supporting hardware changes (especially exhaust and injectors) you are planning at the same time, so you don't have to pay for another tune later.

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Step one, stop driving your car until you find out what injectors you have.

10psi on a stock fuel system is out of fuel easily.

my ba stock ute hit 8 psi before the afr's started heading for the moon.

The injector near the thermostat housing should be easy to see, just take a photo of it and if there is no numbers maybe post it here for Identification.

If you have aftermarket injectors then you have to have some sort of tune

 

Your turbosmart wastegate actuator proberly has a 7.5psi spring in it

if the pre-load is tighter than required, it will hold more boost

as you have a free flowing exhaust its not uncommon to have your boost become uncontrollable.


if you have your boost reference going directly into your actuator, this is your min boost - you cannot install a boost controller to make less boost than this.

either fix you exhaust so it is more stock, or go get your wast-gate flap ported, or an external gate setup.

These cars require SFA modifications to send them into over-boost territory.

all my turbo barras run external wastegates, I have learnt my lesson

 

dont worry about an external boost controller. the stock computer is more than capable boost controller - IF TUNED CORRECTLY.

 

If you want to tune it yourself, get the required hardware and PCMTEC software, then you can change whatever you want. bbut id have to say, you may be better of finding a reptible tuner.

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Just looking at injectors doesnt really fully tell if they have been modified.  Plenty of stock drilled injectors out there 

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While not exactly on topic, I've also become concerned with the high rpm my stock bottom end FG gets to on occasions. I monitored a pull today in 1st (auto) which spun the treads at about 5000 rpm up to what is a potentially a dangerous level. It seems the limiter has been disabled. Engine was at operating temp. The Atomic oil pump gears could be earning their keep.

 

RPM.png.5f8619a6d6e082506e9076ee65f0aa41.png

Engine was off when screenshot was taken, so not sure about the number 154, but I did eyeball the needle getting to around 6500.

So something tells me I betta get get this mess sorted, as there was no barf from the IWG or nasty cut or anything holding it back. In reality, knowing previous owner was a HP junkie. He prolly wanted everything he could get from the T, before he got rid of it. The thing has been recently retuned (less timing/more fuel) and for a few days the IWG was making things a bit boring, but all that seems to have gone by the wayside. I don't really understand anything about what is going on apart that it sounds and feels great and it gunna end in tears.

 

Thoughts? apart from check TS IWG spring/tensioning and 6200rpm limit and/or learn to drive normallyish.

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the 5000 isn't too bad for wheelspin as long as you don't keep the throttle buried at this point... it's not unusual for a car to flare revs a bit on an auto in 1st with high power.

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Yeah well that's the thing, problem with common sense is that it is not that common. The car mostly can't spin the tyres much after said retune. The road was bone dry and I don't do skids as such.

Maybe if I think about the consequences a bit more, I'll exercise a bit of revout interruptus via the right foot. I wonder if I would go built? 

Thanks K31th

 

Edited by Wyatt
Thanks

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Hmm, The ZF usually holds same gear for a few seconds after backing off and then changes up, but moreso in higher gears. I think it changed up as soon as I was off the gas on this occasion. That would suck if it was the the trans spinning. There was no stepout like if often does, but it was a dual lane dead flat road. I've noticed only a hand full of times that it flares slightly when cold on low load, I do warm things up before being spirited. I do drive heavy vehicles with Allison boxes and they will do that sometimes when cold.

 

ZF service if def on the cards very soon. Last 10000Klms of cars life, no doubt, would have been hectic. Have been procrastinating about trans coolers and whether to go GW or LG6, but that's for a more relevant thread, I guess. Just gotta do it.

Edited by Wyatt
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was this in manual shift mode or auto?

id say your tuner needs to look into your shift points and id be questioning why the limiters charged from 6k.

 

in my own experience getting more power from the engine means smashing redline on the shifts, so the shift points need to be turned down or shift speed needs to be increased. to go over 6k they would have tuned it like that, with good/bad reasons.

 

I met a lad recently who had a manual e series with barra and t56, he told me he set the redline higher so he wouldn't be sitting on limiter while skidding, he was worried about the pump gears.

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Was in drive, haven't really explored performance mode. Don't think it would make any difference in this one.

Shift points/shift speed are a good tip to be explored in next tune. Cheers @BeerTurbo.

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@Wyatt Mate, I'm unsure who tuned or tunes your car but I can seriously recommend either TMS (John Ryan "JR" will tune it) in Townsville or David Sheehy at CPV Tuning in Mackay. 

CPV just bought a 2000hp hub dyno so hook in...

 

There is also Paul Morel at Xtreme Motorsport in Townsville, he is also an extremely talented tuner (has been since I've known him, 2005) BUT I don't know him as well with the barra engines as I do Dave and JR... Paul tunes Kent Battles now XD Falcon plus others but most up this way would know of Kent and his adventures. 

Either way do some research but pretty sure they all now have PCMTEC and SCT (XCAL).

TMS have VCM also for the Ford. 

 

Hope this helps... 

Cheers, 

Brett

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Cheers @bjc, Thanks for the heads up with your valuable experience re tuning options in FNQ. I do have a place to stay in Townsville and some hols next year, so will do some research on your suggestions.

This newb appreciates words of wisdom from more experienced enthusiasts and that's a nice piece of open road between Cairns and Townsville.

Rob

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@wyatt no worries mate. Although I own an F6X I've been out of the scene for a number of years but still keep a watch and follow everything from a distance...I do help when I can with previous knowledge on here or some Facebook groups although sometimes they can be tiresome!
@broke is another member who was a regular with Xtreme Motorsport so if he is still active here maybe contact him for some current updates? I might still have his mobile number actually so will check also as he worked across the road from Paul...

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Quick google search reveals, you've got 1 of only 229 F6X's built. U Learn something everyday @bjc.

While we're getting way off topic, are you still using water/meth injection or was that a passing fad?

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