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Which Xr6T To Buy? (Merged Topic)


Z2TT

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Dealers are the worst place to go IMO unless you are buying brand new. U dont know what your buying. Atleast when you buy private, your usually buying someones beloved toy, that has hopefully been looked after.

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Yeah - have to be careful no accident damage. That can be a prime reason for selling low. Can't believe they wound sell a 2011 low just because of kays if it still presents well (which it should bring a 2011) !!!

I have a tendency to buy private though - mainly cos I can see the owner hopefully and get a feeling for whether he would have maintained the car well (but accident damage caveat always there).

There are plenty of threads on how to detect accident damage - paint over spray, paint finish rough/bubbly, paint mis-match, screw heads/nuts showing they have been undone as paint around base of them disturbed, the ol' run the magnet over panels to see if it don't stick due to putty, unexpected weld seams, rear turbo badges not aligned like normal indicating rear ender patched and the list goes on. Suggest you double check things with a brand new Ford at a dealership if you suspect anything.

Good luck :beerchug:

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  • Member For: 11y 7m 2d
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There are a lot of cheap ex ford cars out there to be had at low price and Kms.

They turn them over very quickly so they can sell as demos and it also helps get there sale figures up.

I've been a spray painter for 15 years. The one I bought is as good as new. But yeah, it's the main thing I looked for. No major accidents.

Anything else will be covered by warranty.

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  • Member For: 11y 10m 2d

Hi Benny Cheers for that tip.

I'm new to this, my previous Turbo cars did not have a boost solenoid unless I Put a boost controller on them.

Basically I take it is it pretty much like a Factory Boost controller that the ECU Controls?

Would be pretty shocking for something like that to go faulty on a near new FG, mine only has about 10,000km.

I take it the solenoid would be near a Vac line going from the compressor housing to turbine?

All I can see is a huge Heat Shield covering the rear part of the turbo.

I was definitely thinking of removing the battery clamp for about a minute and putting it back to try reset things.

At the moment it definately isn't slow, did some runs from standstill to 100km/h and it does get a little bit of wheelspin,

not lighting the tyres up style and sending me sideways, but I let off the gas a bit during wheelspin, seems to get to

100 pretty quick stock, I reckon it wouldn't be too much slower than a stock VE SS.

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  • Member For: 20y 7m 23d
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Yes the solenoid is controlled by the ecu. With only 10000k's you may not see an improvement from cleaning and lubricating it but if you want to do it anyway it's located near the battery. Follow the hose connected to the front of the compressor housing, this should lead you to it.

One way to check your car's ability would be to get along to a dyno day when one comes up and compare it against other standard cars. I wouldn't worry though and suggest to get yourself some parts and head along to a tuner and crank that bad boy up a bit, lol.

Benny.

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