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Opinion on cheap EBay turbos


Hirdy

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  • Member For: 5y 11m 1d

Hey all,

 

just St want to know peoples opinions on the cheap EBay turbos, I see there is multiple turbos on there for around $350 and want to know if anyone has used one and how it went and how long it lasted for??? My turbo is getting a little noisy so I’m just starting to have a look now before it’s too late, not keen on spending thousands on a new turbo. Car is a Bf series 2 xr6 turbo, currently tuned to 420rwhp. I can here turbo spinning down once car is shut off 

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  • Member For: 9y 2m 21d
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  • Location: South Australia

#askk31th

 

They're journal bearing most likely and may not be balanced, properly cleaned or deburred internally in various critical areas.

 

You can get a genuine chra for about a grand.

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  • less WHY; more WOT
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  • Member For: 16y 10d
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  • Location: Melbourne

well, you're essentially gambling... the cheap ones *can* last like a full-blown genuine one, but it's pretty rare.

 

You're best off retaining your stock housings and replacing the CHRA if the bearings are noisy or the shaft play is so bad that the wheel(s) are touching the housings and fixing what caused the problem in the first place (most common cause is a blocked oil line filter causing oil starvation or oil coking).

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  • Member For: 5y 11m 1d

Ok so is there a big difference between journal bearing and ceramic? Would I notice any less power or other between the two?

 

Yeah at the same time I need to replace turbo feed line as it is still the original type. Car has done 195000kms and was a x nsw police car so who knows if it’s original turbo, I have owned it for maybe 18 months and it has worried me the whole time 

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  • less WHY; more WOT
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  • Member For: 16y 10d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne

journal bearing is older and requires significantly more oil than a stock xr6t turbocharger (which is a ball bearing one) as it's not water-cooled. It would be fine for your power level but you'll need to block off water supply/drain lines and take some precautions in your driving methods to make the turbo last a reasonable length of time.

 

ball bearing is quite good and good enough for your current power level. It is more expensive than journal bearings but will retain your current setup.

 

ceramic ball bearings are the best (newest) design and is the most expensive.

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  • Member For: 14y 3m 7d

I got a ebay turbo in the mail. gtx3576 (power spirit) for 1k. I tossed up between the gt3582 journal bearing for 360 odd and the ball bearing on for 600 odd for awhile.  My turbo was making the same noise yours is while it was spinning down.  So I decided replace it.  Baseline was a used gt3582 for around 600-800 depending on condition. But that was pot luck same as trying an ebay turbo. :P

 

I guess we will see how it turns out.

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  • Member For: 5y 11m 1d

I found a eBay CHRA cartridge core with dual ceramic ball bearing and billet wheels for $500 shipped , direct bolt in so am thinking of going this way. Has anyone tried this type before? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/STAGE-2-GT3582-Turbo-Dual-Ball-CHRA-Cartridge-Ford-Falcon-BA-BF-XR6-FPV-F6-/112343377358?

Edited by Hirdy
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  • Member For: 6y 2m 15d

Have a look at the Hypergear ATR45 range, they have an improved wastegate design and are available in bush or ball bearing both are water cooled and everything fits straight up. I have a Hypergear replacement turbo on my RTV ute and am happy with it. Plenty of the RB crowd use them with good results as well. 

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