tds New Member 17 Member For: 7y 3m 25d Posted 18/04/19 10:47 AM Share Posted 18/04/19 10:47 AM (edited) Had my FG MKII sedan modded and tuned recently. 1000cc xspurt injectors 4” dump & hi flow cat valve springs Plazmaman 800hp IC 4” hotside intake w/ battery relo Procharge GTX64 Turbo with new actuator Walbro 460 PCMTEC tune also had ZF tuned. Made 395rkw on 98 @ 20PSI on hub dyno, full boost by 3120rpm flat boost all the way to redline. The thing is just nuts on the street. Edited 18/04/19 10:53 AM by tds 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBAF Bronze Donating Members 2,156 Member For: 7y 8m 3d Posted 18/04/19 10:51 AM Share Posted 18/04/19 10:51 AM nice work! Would be a blast now. Link however doesn't work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k31th less WHY; more WOT Site Developer 28,290 Member For: 16y 8d Gender: Male Location: Melbourne Posted 18/04/19 10:56 AM Share Posted 18/04/19 10:56 AM nice work, tds should turn a tyre or two now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tds New Member 17 Member For: 7y 3m 25d Posted 18/04/19 09:49 PM Author Share Posted 18/04/19 09:49 PM Haha it’s turning my fuel gauge more! I did 35km from a full tank and it used a quarter on the gauge. Average is about 20L/100 right now. The torque is 730NM so things will break soon enough if I’m not gentle. Any recommendations for driveline workshops in Sydney for when it eventually pops? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBAF Bronze Donating Members 2,156 Member For: 7y 8m 3d Posted 19/04/19 04:07 AM Share Posted 19/04/19 04:07 AM What rubber are you running on the back? It’s it’s not to grippy and fat you will (should) turn tyres before breaking too much Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wyatt Donating Members 70 Member For: 4y 8m 27d Gender: Male Location: Cairns Posted 25/09/19 03:27 AM Share Posted 25/09/19 03:27 AM Chose this thread as have very similar setup to OP, although no battery relocate. After spinning the wheels a bit and seeing some high RPM, decided on fitting a new H/D oil pump gear assembly and while in the shop, they put it on the dyno for a quick check over. Due to my ignorance, I was a bit surprised to see 20+psi of boost on the chart. Oil on paper is from originals pump gears I took with me. Car ran a bit rough apparently so plug gaps were checked, so plan is for retune. PSI down a bit, bit more fuel so AFR down a touch and bit more timing as is currently around 5 degrees advance, I think, to extend life of motor. So having NFI, I have a question about the original dyno and current one. HP and torque is similar, but the rpm/power/torque figures seem to have changed somewhat. Origin graph shows spool and max torque about 1000 rpm lower. Any thoughts on any of the above would be gratefully received. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wyatt Donating Members 70 Member For: 4y 8m 27d Gender: Male Location: Cairns Posted 17/10/19 10:47 AM Share Posted 17/10/19 10:47 AM (edited) So following up on last post, revisit to tuner to lower boost to a sustainable level (Apparently previous high boost was commanded) add a bit of fuel and some timing was pulled as well, so dropped a few nm's and a bit more laggy than before but got to keep the old school number, so happy with result. No fault codes showing. Got idle sorted when hot, doesn't stall anymore. Oil pump gears - Tick, although now realising was probably not required for auto Safe Tune - Internal wastegate seems to work now - Tick Next job - ZF full fluid flush and heat exchange upgrade to keep trans cooler in tropics and remove milkshake issue. (although I did notice it heats up the tranny super quick as is, when I was grovelling around down there) Still tossing up between liquid gold 6 and GW product and whether to have upfront @JETURBO style or smaller unit with fan between the original dodge one is and the chassis rail. As there is no E85 in FNQ, then no chance to need same space for surge tank. Once again apologies for chithouse image. Need to get another phone/brain. Edited 17/10/19 10:51 AM by Wyatt Added stuff 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
O Trader Member 88 Member For: 15y 6m 4d Posted 29/10/19 01:55 PM Share Posted 29/10/19 01:55 PM What's the logic about not requiring bilet oil pump gears when running the ZF auto with high power numbers ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k31th less WHY; more WOT Site Developer 28,290 Member For: 16y 8d Gender: Male Location: Melbourne Posted 29/10/19 02:02 PM Share Posted 29/10/19 02:02 PM you're less likely to spin it too high when you have an auto as it shifts for you... it's the "a little bit too high revs" that can cause the stress on the pump and it's gearing... which is more likely in a manual... but if you're going to spin it higher than 6,500 then you should do the pump gears (amongst a bunch of other mods). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arronm Dropping a turd Gold Donating Members 9,520 Member For: 16y 5m 22d Gender: Male Location: Perth Posted 29/10/19 02:26 PM Share Posted 29/10/19 02:26 PM (edited) 1 hour ago, O Trader said: What's the logic about not requiring bilet oil pump gears when running the ZF auto with high power numbers ? Torsion moments from the crank on the oil pump gears every time you change gears for manual.. Nothing to do with peak revs unless you bounce off the limiter. Limiter bashing isnt good for manual or auto as it has the same bashing effect on the pump gears. BUT billet pump gears and billet balancer is a MUST if you rev high and rev high for long periods. Edited 29/10/19 03:06 PM by arronm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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