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Joel0201

How to remove zf 6 speed

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Cheers Keith I hope so too!

Just watched this video

he uses a mega long extension to get to those top bolts. Do you need to drop the pan or just open the filler hole, also he talks about the steel pan being thrown away after lowering it, is it safe supporting and lowering it from the pan with a jack and what I guess some blocks of wood?

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You should be able to lower it without damaging if you protect with blocks of wood.

Depends which pan you have as to whether you have a drain plug it not, so may need to drop the pan. I bought an aftermarket steel pan with a drain plug when I serviced my ZF to make flushing/servicing quicker and less messy in future.

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I had the plastic pan on mine (bf) and it was fine, I didn’t use a trans jack I used a workshop trolley with wood across it and it was fine. 

The plastic all over pan has a drain plug on the pan but as I understand there one use only, considering the whole pan is $90 it’s cheap insurance considering the price of the box. 

If your doing this on ramps may be tricky unless you have a really low trans jack. 

Your gonna need the extensions ahhahahha

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Ok thanks guys I’ve got a bit of clearance under my quickjacks, it gets it up to 477mm. I’ve got a steel pan but it doesn’t have a drain plug, I’ve ordered a new one and I’ll put this one in the territory, good time for a zf service now anyway.

I’ve got some thick bench off cuts I was thinking of mounting to my jack but if regular bits of wood have been ok then I might just rest the off cut on the jack and ratchet strap it all. I’ve already checked I can get the jack under easily.

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You should be able to lower it without damaging if you protect with blocks of wood.

Depends which pan you have as to whether you have a drain plug it not, so may need to drop the pan. I bought an aftermarket steel pan with a drain plug when I serviced my ZF to make flushing/servicing quicker and less messy in future.
How do u make sure it doesn’t slide off the jack or the blocks of wood? At 84 kgs it’s heavy, I’ve seen YouTube videos of people using ratchet straps around it but yeah it’s just got me thinking it is really well balanced or yeah how with where it’s supported by the jack and some wood does that stop it sliding or toppling off?

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When I removed the trans in my previous car, I just had a mate under there helping to balance it and went slow. A BTR is only 30kg though.

When I removed the rear suspension I had a couple of furniture dollies (just home made ones using thick timber and strong castor wheels) in place so that when I lowered it on the jack it landed on the dollies to balance it and I could then roll it out from under the car.

I'm in Canberra too if you need an extra pair of hands at the critical moment!

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Well that was ducking (thanks autocomplete) hard work. Not actually the transmission removal but other stupid sh*t! Started well when in the first step of removing starter motor I broke a brand new shifting spanner on the pita top bolt. Getting to the rear nuts in the tailshaft and one of the cross member support bolts behind my huge 4 inch exhaust were all hell, even attempts to remove parts of the exhaust and failed.

 

The transmission itself the removal was fine, it is mega tall though, she won’t be coming out from under the car, even with my quickjacks, not unless I can slide it on the ground or something, there might be a tiny bit more I can raise the car but it won’t be on it’s locking bars. Hopefully repairs are possible under the car.

 

So I’m no mechanic but the flex plate looks fine and the input shaft does not. Will see what my options are to get going again.

 

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Sheeeeeeeeet mate that’s a munted shaft !

 

hummmm I wasn’t sure the Quick Jacks would get it high enough but I knew the ZF was tall, Put some of the Genuine Quick Jack chock blocks on to gain more lift ?

 

Id be interested to see if that was a Genuine Nizzy billet shaft but it’s definitely no good now lol, normally they just clean sheer not fragment like what you’ve got there 

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Ouch, that's not good mate.

Have you thought about what you're going to do? I've nearly convinced myself to go manual haha

Don’t have the funds, kinda like the auto anyway except for the obvious.

Sheeeeeeeeet mate that’s a munted shaft !
 
hummmm I wasn’t sure the Quick Jacks would get it high enough but I knew the ZF was tall, Put some of the Genuine Quick Jack chock blocks on to gain more lift ?
 
Id be interested to see if that was a Genuine Nizzy billet shaft but it’s definitely no good now lol, normally they just clean sheer not fragment like what you’ve got there 

I’m just special I suppose. Good point on the quickjacks they come with 8 rubber blocks and u can double them up for height, might just get me there.

If it’s not genuine then we have different problems. Interesting they normally clean break not fragment, again makes me extra lucky.. I’m thinking the torque converter must be gone too because there was plenty of horrible sounds that the input shaft wouldn’t be making.

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6r80 conversion is done, they reckon it’s about twice as big as the zf and it’s all one size, it doesn’t step down like the original zf does. Apparently an extra gear behind the shaft too (inside planetary or something, dunno talkin out my arse now). They basically lined up the 6r80 and the original zf and make it all fit together so it’s 6r80 from about half way up the gearbox.

A couple of the eclutches were gone as well which was the cause of metal in the pan and the exedy extra clutches are apparently originally designed for the 6r80 anyway even though they work in the zf. A few of them 4,5,6? eclutches were replaced due to wear.

Been chipping away on reinstalling the box over the last couple of days, few hrs here and there each day, a sick child and a death in the family (not related thankfully) have slowed me down a bit. But with help from my wife it’s bolted up to the bell housing and just still have to do the torque converter, tailshaft and fluids.

I do need one bit of advice though, I have one bolt I can’t find a home for, the heads about 13mm like the smaller bell housing bolts but it’s much longer. But I can’t figure out where it goes and since it’s been about 2 months since I took her out my memory is completely shot. I have the workshop manuals but can’t put a finger on where this one goes.

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Bottom one

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All these guys are accounted for (12 though they don’t have 13 arrows, is the misprint a missing arrow or 13 not 12??, still can’t see a place for this guy on the engine side of the bell housing).

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Also took the opportunity to install a bigger engine oil cooler for the race track, literally not a mm left for a bigger cooler, fitted the biggest I could. Derale oil cooler racing line.
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That long bolt with the blind base looks like one of the x2 starter motor bolts

 

had a look on a ZF turbo just then and all 13mm head bottom bell housing bolts are same lengths x6 

all top 17mm big head bolts are same length x6 

 

Hope that helps

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Hey mate thanks for the reply, the two starter motor bolts were exactly the same and I’ve already got that in. Everything’s done up and torqued to spec and I still can find a home for this bolt. Really wish I knew of the glad bag with labels trick when taking this out. Just had to stop for dinner when the trans oil hit 50 degrees during the fill procedure but hopefully finish it off tonight and be able to drive to work tomorrow.

Wheels turn though so it’s looking good

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Haha nope, it’ll live on my workbench till the Internet can figure out where it goes.

Test drive tonight felt great, really happy no harsh shifts pretty smooth so hopefully it’s all done successfully, so long as there’s no pools of trans oil on the floor of the garage overnight it should be all good lol

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Hey mate not much to report really hasnt fallen out and hasnt broken even though ive given it a regular floggin. Shifts are good, it didnt need to relearn even with some of the extra clutches replaced which is good because it tool about 10,000 kms to originally wear in.

Real test will be wakefield park next year in the cooler weather. Keep seeing more and more ppl talking about the 6r80 conversion on facebook too so its definitely becoming the new go to. And given mustangs in the states are apparently doing 8 second quarters on stock boxes you can see why.

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