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How to remove zf 6 speed


Joel0201

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  • Member For: 5y 13d

Hey mate, you should be able to get it on ramps if there high enough.

I ended up getting use of a hoist when I did mine, the hardest part was getting the trans back in and aligned. 

For getting it out what I remember is:

-disconnect battery

-lift up car 

-drain the fluid out the trans. 

-undo tailshaft

-undo starter 

-move the heat exchanger out the way (best time to put in a external cooler if you don’t wanna milkshake it later on)

-remove trans cooler lines out the way

-undo shifter linkage 

-disconnect gearbox electrical plugs

-undo the converter bolts

-loosen all the bell housing bolts a little leaving the easiest to get ones to last

-support cross member undoing the bolts 

-lower the cross member should move a bit down. 

-jack the front of the engine (make sure bonnet is open) this will allow gearbox to sit on angle making it easier to get to the top bolts

-once you have it on an angle use a second jack to take the weight of the trans and complete undo all the trans bolts going from hardest to reach to easiest. 

-release front jack and allow trans to level a little before giving it a tug and removing it. 

 

While your there and have the trans removed best time to do the rear main seal (get this from ford don’t cheap out or it will leak) 

 

You need enough room to roughly have the gearbox on a 30degree angle whilst on a jack if that gives you an idea. 

 

When I did mine I swapped the mechatroics unit over as I have heard they are programmed to the body of the car (someone might be able to confirm) if you need to do this it’s quite simple let me know and I’ll try give you acouple pointers I did reuse the new gearbox’s valve body thou. 

Hope that helps mate. Only a rough guide mostly there thou 👌👌

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Ok thanks. It sounds like I might be using your guide!



Not sure if I should make a new thread but built zf billet input shaft lost all drive at wakefield in 3rd to 4th, went bang and then clunky clunk. Surely shouldn’t be input shaft but yeah what are ppls thoughts from the sounds? Thinking I’ll save some money maybe getting the zf out myself and taking it somewhere as opposed to getting the car towed then paying for removal... at least that’s what I’m thinking atm, happy to be convinced one way or another.
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Hey mate, the noise sounds pretty bad

its not that hard to take out so save yourself some coin. I’m not to sure what that noise would be but sure could be input shaft. Even billet zf shaft would have a snapping point put enough load on anything and it will break. I guess there also the possibility something else has cause that noise (blown converter or something) I’m not sure probs a tear down job. After some small tests. Only thing I can say is make sure to drain and clean all the transcooler lines and cooler intself especially if the trans has put metal into the oil.

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  • Member For: 8y 5m 21d
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  • Location: Mildura

I'd say input shaft unfortunately. I watched one of your videos around the racetrack, the downshifts are pretty rough, you need to upgrade the shaft to the 6r80 shaft.

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Ok thanks for the feedback, I’ll have to do some reading on the 6r80, I thought a 2k billet input shaft should do the job but maybe with the zf tune and track work it was just too much. I was running full slicks on the rear for the first time. Also did hit the rev limiter in third earlier in the day. 409rwkw On e85 with a gtx3576, she gets up and boogies in the mid range.

 

If it’s input shaft hopefully I could replace that myself, assuming it’s not tooo difficult and the 6r80 isn’t insanely priced?

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I've seen the 6r80 input and drum assembly on eBay a few times for around $1500, but then you need a new converter too. I'm pretty sure you'll need to the drum assembly machined to match the rest of the internals.

If you stay with a billet shaft, I'd get the tune revised and get the torque removed more on the shifts.

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That’s not too bad depending on the converter and custom machining, would they just need the transmission?

Found this but read a few horror stories about rvo transmissions. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F253472372994

These guys also have one with all the bells and whistles so I wonder if they’d have the bits id need https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F264410059881

What does a 6r80 come from?
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Yeah someone is having troubles with rvo on the forums as we speak.

They'd only need the box, it would need a custom converter made up and the box retuned I'd say.

6r80 are the American version of the zf iirc, it's in some of the rangers and the last territory's.

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=https://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/93089-6r80-parts-into-zf6/&share_tid=93089&share_fid=91659&share_type=t

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How are the internals of a US zf stronger than a billet input shaft that’s heat treated with all the bells and whistles?

 

Am seeing now a few threads that the 6r80 internals is the path to take for a trouble free zf.

 

I wonder how much we’re talking for that kind of custom work and who (Canberra isnt that well known for this sort of work)

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