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PAH

Fix Blown Tail Light Problem?

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Greetings all,

 

I carry half a dozen spare left rear tail light globes in the glovebox ... and another half dozen in my pocket.  The DANG things keep blowing ... but only the left hand side globe. 

 

I think I might be onto a fix:  This crowd sells LED tail-brake light globes.  And the same globe is suitable for up to 24 volts and is said to withstand voltage spikes (I suspect that's why my standard globes are blowing.  Has anybody else had this problem?  The LED globes are $11 each.  Probably plus postage.

 

https://www.ledshoponline.com.au/12-24-volt-car-led-light-bulbs-australia-automotive/12-volt-LED-brake/BAY15D-White-1157-12v-12-volt-LED-brake-lights

 

 

PAH

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LED brake lights can also cause issues with your cruise control as they have lower resistance. A resistor may need to be wired in-line.

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Guys,

 

Yes.  The guys at Blingworks sent me these links for the extra modules:

 

The irritation is that the brake light error canceller modules cost $40.  Over twice the price of the LED globes.  The modules are connected in parallel to the LEDs using insulation displacement connectors.  

 

The major concern would be cruise control not cancelling when the brake pedal is tapped and I dare say that the 21w canceller would fix this.  Why bother with the 5w tail light error canceller?  I think that the guy at Blingworks mentioned that it prevents a dashboard "blown globe" warning light error but my FG doesn't have a dashboard "blown globe"warning light so I am tempted to not buy the 5w canceller. 

 

 

PAH

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Sorry Admin,

 

I ordered a couple of brake-tail lights from this crowd:

 

https://www.ledshoponline.com.au/12-24-volt-car-led-light-bulbs-australia-automotive/12-volt-LED-brake/BAY15D-White-1157-12v-12-volt-LED-brake-lights

 

After speaking to a few people, I concluded that the guy at the ledshoponline made the most sense.  I asked a guy from another supplier for the RESISTANCE figure of the Error Canceller that I was informed I  might need and the answer was ... 21 WATTS!!  (not ohms).  Keith at ledshoponline gave me the figure for resistor that I need to wire in parallel with his LED globes (IF required).  He advised me to install a 5000 resistor.   Jaycar sells wire wound 4700 ohm resistors for 48 cents. 

https://www.jaycar.com.au/4-7k-ohm-5-watt-wire-wound-resistor/p/RR3312   A couple of crowds are asking $40 for the Error Canceller magic box. 

 

The bulbs from ledshoponline apparently use Samsung LEDs so I guess they will be OK. 

 

 

PAH

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K31TH,

 

I = V/R.  Current = 12 / 4700.  Current is a tad less than 3mA.  The resistors I'm looking at are rated at 5 watts.  12 x 0.003 = 0.036 watts which is way less than the 5 watt max.  I'm hoping that they don't run hot.

 

If I'm lucky the brake pedal will continue to trip the cruise control after I install the LED brake lights.  If not I'll try the resistors at 48 cents each (not $40 for the Error Canceller).  The guy from ledshoponline says that their globes are packed with plenty of LEDs to ensure that they pull 10 watts in an effort to overcome the issue with the cruise control.

 

I have zero interest in bling so I'd continue to use standard globes if they'd last.  I'm told that it's voltage spikes that causes globes to blow.  I'd link to know what causes the voltage spikes.  And I'd like to know why it's ALWAYS the LEFT globe that blows.  Ledshoponline advertises that its globes are also OK in 24 volt circuits so I'm hoping that that makes them more resistant to voltage spikes.

 

 

 

PAH

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On 13/03/2019 at 11:53 PM, k31th said:

hmm, so these 4700ohm resistors might get a little hot... hopefully not too hot...

 

I got some of those led resistor boxes when I did the blinker led globes in my bf tail lights.

 

EMPL25-1.jpg

 

 

I mounted them on top of the rear light housing, checked a week later and they had started to melt through. plus the auto lights would always act like its night time (screen would go into night brightness mode). so I put the original blinker globes back in.

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Panda Eyes,

 

Thanks for the info.  Is that a 6 Ohm resistor in your photo?  If so:  I = V/R.  = 12 /6  = 2 amps. 

 

The guy at Ledshoponline has advised me to use a 5000 Ohm resistor which would pull only 3mA (3/1000 of an amp).  I can't see such a high value resistor getting hot.  

He also says his LED globes have been stacked with plenty of LEDs to maximise current flow.  They pull 10 watts.  But this is still less than the standard globe that pulls 21 watts.  I dare say he is specifying a 5000 Ohm resistor for his LED globes to increase the current draw enough to trip the Cruise Control when the brake pedal is tapped. 

 

IF I need to add the 5000 Ohm resistor I don't plan to whack it across the tail light - just the brake light.  I am guessing that it's only the brake light that triggers Cruise Control deactivation.  And so I am hoping that I don't have any dramas with nightime-daytime brightness on the dashboard.

 

Admin:  I'm waiting for the LED lobes to arrive in the post mate.   If I'm lucky they will work OK without any fiddling around.

https://www.ledshoponline.com.au/

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Guys:  A bit more.

 

A standard 21 watt should pull 1.75 amps.  I = P/V.  I = 21/12 = 1.75 amps.  If the resistor above is 6 Ohms then it will pull 2 amps which is MORE current than than a standard 21 watt light globe.  Why does it need to?  I could be wrong here, but it's my guess that the objective is to get the TOTAL load (resistor and LED) to pull the same current as a standard 21 watt globe so that the Cruise Control recognises the current draw as a brake pedal application.  If we have any auto elecs in the forum please jump in here to set me straight if I am wrong.

 

I suspect that it is a 6 Ohm resistor.  It looks a bit like these: 

https://www.amazon.com/4Pcs-Aaron-6ohm-Load-Resistors/dp/B00L4V9ECY/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?hvadid=295431745346&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=2840&hvnetw=s&hvpos=1t2&hvqmt=b&hvrand=5047983431389191575&hvtargid=kwd-396652719788&keywords=6+ohm+50w+led+load+resistors&qid=1552688817&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&tag=googhydr-20&psc=1

 

And this web site includes this info:  "4Pcs Aaron 50W 6ohm Load Resistors - Fix LED Bulb Fast Hyper Flash Turn Signal Blink Error Code (Resistors get very hot during working)".

 

A 10 watt LED globe should pull around 0.8 amps ( I = P / V    I = 10/12 = 0.8).   And this means (if my maths and logic are correct) then the LED should be around 15 Ohms and another 15 ohms should bump current draw to that of a standard light globe. 

 

If you have purchased LED globes and you do not know how much current they pull you can measure this with a cheap Digital Multi Meter from Jaycar:

https://www.jaycar.com.au/low-cost-digital-multimeter-dmm/p/QM1500

There is a critical issue here.  When measuring current (amps) the DMM MUST be connected in series with the LED light globe NOT across the globe.  If you're not sure of this don't even try.  The DMM can blow up if you strap it across a power supply ... if it doesn't have a fuse.  Once you know the current flowing through your DMM you can calculate power.  Assume 0.5 amps flowing through the LED.  Power = Volts x Amps.  Power = 12 volts x 0.5 amps = 6 watts.  That's less than a third of the current drawn by a standard globe.  And (I am guessing that) 6 watts may not been seen by the Cruise Control as a brake pedal application.  You can do your own maths to calculate the value of a parallel resistor required to pull the same current as a standard 21 watt globe that pulls 1.75 amps.

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