Mixalis Member 38 Member For: 10y 10m 10d Posted 20/02/19 10:25 AM Share Posted 20/02/19 10:25 AM Hi everyone, have just bought myself a mechanically standard untouched BF Typhoon on the weekend. Ive only mucked around with older carburettor motors so this is my first go with a modern turbo car. Basically, drove the car 9 hours home on the weekend and didn't miss a beat, around the corner from my house I put my foot down, hit a hard limiter at 5200rpm approx, then went into limp mode. Turned car off and on, copped a check engine light. Ran a quick OBD scan using a bluetooth adapter and an app on the phone and got the P1227 error - Wastegate stuck Overboost. Connected a new vac line straight onto actuator and ran regulated compressed air through it. Even at about 15psi of air it would only move the actuator rod maybe 1-2mm (barely anything) before the pressure would bleed out. From what I can tell, either the actuator diaphragm is goneskies or the flap/linkage itself is jammed (I haven't picked up the lingo here yet on what we call these parts) I have a few questions now and hoping to get some of your recommendations: 1. Anything else I can test/Have I even tested it the correct way to deduce a failed wastegate actuator? 2. It's looking like ill have to pull the turbo and manifold off and order a new actuator. Im thinking of getting the TurboSmart direct replacement - I only want the 5psi spring version cause I'm not interested in tuning the car at all at the moment, just want to enjoy it the way it is. Is this actuator a recommended option so I don't run into this issue again? 3. Gasket wise, I'm looking to get the permaseal kit for all the turbo water/oil line and also the permaseal layered steel exhaust manifold gasket. Is this what people use? 4. For all the studs and bolts, which are the ones that have been known to sieze and are a good idea to replace with quality items? I have been able to source these parts from GCG Turbos Thanks in advance, I can't wait to get out and enjoy the car! Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arronm Dropping a turd Gold Donating Members 9,520 Member For: 16y 5m 2d Gender: Male Location: Perth Posted 20/02/19 11:00 AM Share Posted 20/02/19 11:00 AM Can be changed with turbo on the car.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k31th less WHY; more WOT Site Developer 28,239 Member For: 15y 11m 19d Gender: Male Location: Melbourne Posted 20/02/19 01:04 PM Share Posted 20/02/19 01:04 PM 1. If you can't move the arm with your fingers, then it's likely the flapper or the bit where the arm is connected is stuck. 2. If you're going to pull the turbo off, that's fine, it's tricky to get the actuator into place with the turbo in the car, but can be done as arronm said. 3. Yep, those gaskets are good. 4. GCG can get you the right replacement studs and bolts and you should get nordloc washers to prevent it wriggling itself off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mixalis Member 38 Member For: 10y 10m 10d Posted 20/02/19 09:35 PM Author Share Posted 20/02/19 09:35 PM Thanks for that guys, I might bite the bullet at take it off the car as it looks like it’s quite cramped down there to try and replace it all with the turbo on. I’ll have one more look before I take anything off Thanks for the reply Keith. Looks like I’ll grab those gaskets then! Regarding the flap itself getting stuck, is this testable in the car? Or is it way too hard to move that flap linkage with the actuator rod all hooked up? Also, which of the bolts should I be replacing? The 12 (I think) from manifold to head, are they bolts that you guys normally convert to studs? Also I think there are two extra on the heatshield and then there’s the H brace, replace those as well? Cheers for the help, want make sure I’m getting all the right bits! Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k31th less WHY; more WOT Site Developer 28,239 Member For: 15y 11m 19d Gender: Male Location: Melbourne Posted 20/02/19 10:12 PM Share Posted 20/02/19 10:12 PM Yeah, you can grab the actuator arm with your fingers as I described to test it on the car. Just replace the studs and nuts on the turbo-to-manifold flange (x4) and leave the standard bolts in for the manifold-to-engine connection. These just need to be nipped up every service, whereas the turbo-to-manifold need the nordloc (or similar) solution to prevent them from coming off. It's also worth doing the turbo-exhaust-housing-to-dump-pipe gasket and studs/nuts/nordloc, too, while you're at it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mixalis Member 38 Member For: 10y 10m 10d Posted 20/02/19 11:01 PM Author Share Posted 20/02/19 11:01 PM (edited) Awesome thanks for that mate, going to try get my fingers to the actuator arm then and see if I can get it to budge. Let's hope it moves freely so were just looking at replacing the actuator itself! Ok cool, considering the dump pipe and housing-to-mani gaskets come in the kit, ill probably go ahead and replace them as well as all the studs/nuts/washers. Have been doing a bit of searching so I know which ones to buy, from what I have found so far (Atomic, MAMBA) I need: 4x M10x1.5 45mm for the turbo flange to manifold 5x M8x1.25 35mm for the dump pipe to turbo Is this correct? MAMBA look like they sell the right kits (ill post below), has anyone had any experience with these? One option is to get these + the nordloc washers you mentioned: https://shop.mambatek.com/CNC-SS304-Turbo-Dump-Pipe-Stud-Kit-FORD-FALCON-BA-BF-FG-XR6-K044-0011-6-2.htm https://shop.mambatek.com/Turbo-Stud-Kit-Ford-40-BA-BF-FG-FGX-FPV-Typhoon-F6-E-Tornado-K044-0010-4-1.htm OR should I mix and match the right amount of studs and nuts supplied by GCG + the nordloc washers? https://gcg.com.au/petrol-performance/performance-3/studs-and-nuts Thanks again, getting there slowly Edited 20/02/19 11:02 PM by Mixalis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k31th less WHY; more WOT Site Developer 28,239 Member For: 15y 11m 19d Gender: Male Location: Melbourne Posted 21/02/19 12:00 AM Share Posted 21/02/19 12:00 AM The first mamba link has the right studs for the dump pipe, but are expensive high-tensile steel ones. You shouldn't need to get those super expensive ones. The second mamba link isn't one I'd purchase, either, as the studs for the "turbo-to-exhaust-manifold" are M10x1.25 on one side and M10x1.5 on the other. The 1.5 end goes into the manifold and the 1.25 allows for a finer thread and more torque/clamping-pressure on the turbo side. The ones I got were from Sonic Performance, but I had @JETURBO supply them and you can PM him to get the same set I had in this post if I were to buy the bits myself to get the cheapest possible (it's probably not as cheap as getting them supplied by JETURBO)... I'd get the exhaust-to-manifold studs/nuts from here -> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TURBO-EXHAUST-STUD-NUT-SET-M10-X-1-25-M10-X-1-5-4-PACK-/170532913066 and I'd get the turbo-to-dump studs/nuts from here (or ebay) -> http://www.sonicperformance.com.au/95014/Stud-_and_-Nut-Kit-T25%2C-GT25%2C-GT28-M8-x-1.25-x-5/pd.php and I'd get the nordloc washers from here (10mm and 8mm variants) -> https://www.blackwoods.com.au/search/washers-serrated-nord-lock-zinc-plated-and-stainless-steel/307061227 and I'd get the turbo-to-dump gasket from ford spare parts or ebay. I wouldn't bother with the T3-flange gasket, but was supplied last time I did it, so I used it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mixalis Member 38 Member For: 10y 10m 10d Posted 21/02/19 12:19 AM Author Share Posted 21/02/19 12:19 AM Kieth you're an absolute legend mate, thank you for you help with this! Thanks for those links, I just called up my local industrial fastener place that ive been using for years and they have the genuine nord loc washers at a very very good price each pair, I will see if they have the appropriate high tensile studs and copper nuts as well - they have looked after me for years and are very well priced. In the absence of that, I have the links you have just sent! For the Dump pipe bolts, I will be sure to bring the following dimensions with me when I visit to make sure I get the right stud: Stud thread: M8 x 1.25 Stud total length: 35mm Long thread: 20mm Base thread: 7.5mm For the Turbo-to-Manifold bolts, other than the fact that they are M10 x 1.5 and 45mm, should I be looking for specific long thread or base thread lengths? Or would equal length threads suffice? Cheers! Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k31th less WHY; more WOT Site Developer 28,239 Member For: 15y 11m 19d Gender: Male Location: Melbourne Posted 21/02/19 12:34 AM Share Posted 21/02/19 12:34 AM no worries, happy to help pretty cool that you have a place that can (potentially) help if you get the details, let us know if they can help out other forum members, too, with links (if available online) or details of part numbers and a phone number. Yeah, those dimensions are fine. Total length isn't a big deal, as if it's too long, then you can just cut them a bit haha, but the others sound correct without me actually measuring one and going solely off my memory. For the turbo-to-manifold studs, they have two different threads (as above, M10x1.5 and M10x1.25) and I don't have the thread length or the total length for those handy right now, but I've bought those ones from the ebay link before and they were perfect size. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mixalis Member 38 Member For: 10y 10m 10d Posted 21/02/19 03:34 AM Author Share Posted 21/02/19 03:34 AM Awesome Keith cheers!! This place is in Mortdale (Sydney area) they dont even have a website, so you cant even order online, real old school but theyve had everything ive ever needed when it came to fasteners (with the exception of performance parts of course like ARP). Thanks for the heads up on the Turbo-to-Manifold studs, now I understand what you were saying before, so the coarser part of the stud (1.5) goes into the manifold whil the nut clamps down onto the finer 1.25 thread (turbo end). My local might not have something that sophisticated on hand but at least I have the Ebay link you sent if I get in trouble. Got my hands on a mightyvac pump so going to run one more test on it hopefully tonight, then try moving the arm manually like you said Keith, then will report back. Fingers crossed its just the actuator While I was on the phone with GCG, they recommended getting the RedHorse oil feed line kit as the factory ones can block up if the car hasnt been serviced as often as it should have. I need to check the logbooks again tonight - is this a common problem that I should be looking to protect myself from by purchasing this kit? Do you prefer perhaps a different brand? Or is it a bit unnecessary at this stage? https://gcg.com.au/petrol-performance/performance-2/oil-and-water-line-kits/oil-feed-line-kit-ford-falcon-xr6t-ba-bf-detail Thanks! Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now