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tvxfgolzzfekf

The 32-Year-Old Modification Virgin

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Evening all,

 

As the self-deprecating title shows, I'm modifying a car for the first time. It's an FG-X G6E Turbo and completely stock. I've only heard good things of Pit Lane down in Frankston so I plan on heading down there during some time off in May to get my mod on. The main reason for choosing Pit Lane is its reputation; which hopefully means I won't get screwed around and won't need to constantly take it back and forth for minor niggles (I live interstate, so it's a bit of a trip) and I just want things done right the first time. But before any of this can proceed, I'd like to ask a few questions of those who have gone before me, and ask their guidance on what might be basic questions. So apologies if they are.

 

First, I'm looking at Pit Lane's Stage 3 Package, which comes in HP Tuners, PCMTEC, and SCT variations. I'm after a decent amount of power, but nothing crazy because the car's a daily and won't be going to the track or drags. Instead the power's really for overtakes and rolling starts (no point chewing the tyres if I can help it) where I find the stock car lacking. Stage 3 is definitely pushing the limit on what I'm willing to spend and appears to be decent value for money with the HP Tuners and PCMTEC versions of the package costing $6025 each and the SCT $6495. But what is the difference between these versions? What, in layman's terms, makes the SCT option cost $470 more? I'm okay with paying that bit more if it's justifiable.

 

As I said, this is a daily and will be serviced as one too so I need to make sure this is a car that can be safely serviced by the local mechanic without causing any future issue. Will I need to reset the car back to stock before services or is that even necessary so long as they're forewarned when booking it in? Are different, more high-end parts like oil required? Will there be future strain on other parts of the car like the differential, or wheels, or whatever else I/you can think of? New tyres will be installed prior to all this (and I'll come to that later) and a better brake package as soon as financially viable. It's all about getting the best bang for my buck with the fewest bangs later on.

 

Here's the list on Pit Lane's site of what's involved with each stage (and the FREE! Awesome! Extras) :

 

xmfYuLs.jpg

 

Back to tyres, I used to have a set of Nitto Invos on my old car, which were good, cheapish tyres though stock seems all but dried up in Australia except through St. George Tyres whom only have 2016 stock (2017 stock on enquiry and will cost more). I'd like to get these again since I'm not too keen on dropping more than a grand on four corners unless someone can recommend better tyres for around the same price (I can go a bit higher in price, but $300 a tyre is really pushing it). Is 2016 stock just too old for as-new tyres? Can the 2017 ones be worth the extra cost (however much that may be - again, price on enquiry)? Am I looking at the wrong tyres altogether considering the increase in power going through them?

 

And lastly, what reasonable, ballpark power gains should I expect from the Stage 3 package? I'm not asking exact numbers, but this is going from a stock vehicle with about 40,000kms on it. Who knows, maybe any info I glean from here will change my mind on some things or halt the process altogether, but I do thank anyone who takes the time to reply, let alone read through my nonsense. I'm sure I've forgotten other things to ask too, but I hope this is the start down a road to a faster Ford. Thanks again!

Edited by tvxfgolzzfekf
Typo 001

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Looking at 280-300rwkw.

 

It's fun, but gets old real fast with the fact that it cost you so many thousands of dollars.

 

You could look at buying second hand items of crashed xr6 turbos. Theres plenty of them with those items in the stage 3 package. Then all you would need to pay for at a tuning shop is injectors, tune and a sct4 unit.

 

Pcmtec - they use your PCM and hack into it in a way, so just plug some wires in and tune

 

The sct unit is a separate controller that does it for you, so your paying for the controller itself  and a tune.

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18 minutes ago, tvxfgolzzfekf said:

But what is the difference between these versions? What, in layman's terms, makes the SCT option cost $470 more?

SCT comes with an Xcal4 which holds many tunes, PCMTec and HPTuners only have one tune which is loaded to your PCM. You're paying extra for the extra control over your tune(s) plus the physical hand controller.

 

Quote

Will I need to reset the car back to stock before services or is that even necessary so long as they're forewarned when booking it in? Are different, more high-end parts like oil required? Will there be future strain on other parts of the car like the differential, or wheels, or whatever else I/you can think of?

No, you don't need to reset it to stock. Just install a dash cam and say "nothing silly on the test drives" each time you drop it off. Nah, oil is mostly about sticking with OEM recommendations or whatever your tuner recommends, specifically. Yes, more power does put more strain on any driveline parts, but it's a bit like asking "how long is a piece of string" as to how long your particular setup will last. You can just know for sure that it won't last as long as it does when it's stock power.

 

Quote

Is 2016 stock just too old for as-new tyres? Can the 2017 ones be worth the extra cost (however much that may be - again, price on enquiry)? Am I looking at the wrong tyres altogether considering the increase in power going through them?

2016 is reasonable enough as you'll go through them within a year or so, anyway. The 2017 can be worth it if you don't mind paying a bit extra for "peace of mind". But ideally yes, you're looking at the wrong tyres as new ones are obviously better. There's heaps of options for decent tyres, but none of the ones that'll hold the power will last a long time.

 

Quote

And lastly, what reasonable, ballpark power gains should I expect from the Stage 3 package?

Probably around the low 300rwkw mark for that mod package.

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Thanks for the initial replies guys.

 

So the SCT holds multiple tunes in a physical box, I guess for different fuels and if you want to reset everything or alter stuff on the fly, whilst HP Tuners and PCMTEC are one tune that cannot be changed without taking it back to Pit Lane for a reflash. Is that about right? Can you install more perimeters through the others while the SCT can only alter so much? Meaning when the tune is done, more can be preset via HP/PCMTEC than SCT or is it just a matter that you can alter less through the SCT controller after the tune is done?

 

It says the install includes an E85-compatible fuel pump assembly but it would be safe to assume that means a new, better fuel pump that happens to be E85-compatible as well? Otherwise it might be pointless getting that since I only intend to run 98.

 

@I love kittens you're not giving me much confidence mate! Sounds like I'm not going to have enough power to be happy with for the cost. Are the prices listed that unreasonable? For sake of convenience and knowing that the parts are new/backed by Pit Lane, I'd rather that route than scrounging around trying to source bargains from who-knows-where all over the country.

 

@k31th what tyres instead would you recommend? To reiterate they're not for racing/drags but still need to hold their own - or as well as one can reasonably expect from tyres in that $250-300 price bracket.

 

And I'm reading 280-to-low-300rwkw's, which is expected (bit of a variance in estimations but that's okay) but what about the torque side of the equation? The car's rated as 270kw/535Nm (at the motor, not wheels, I know) so the kw jump sounds right, but I think I'm right in thinking the Nm's will jump quite a bit more, yeah?

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The tuner can "send" you a tune for HP tuners (not sure if this can be done with PCMTec) and you can put it on your car yourself, if you have the right equipment to do so... SCT is the most "convenient" from this standpoint. Essentially you just "read codes", "do logging" and "upload tunes" to the car, with the SCT handheld. No "parameters" are modifiable.

 

Yep, it's pointless to get the extra E85 compatible stuff if you're going with 98. He just has that listed in his thing because E85 is what some people want to know it's usable for.

 

You'll be very happy with 300rwkw, trust me. It's significantly faster than you might think it is. Although, you do get used to the power very quickly once you drive it a lot. Driving a slow car often then driving your fast car sometimes is a good way to renew your appreciation of the power level.

 

Tyres depend on your wheels you've got on the car. There's plenty of options but just ensure it's got the right load rating (95Y from memory, but this is easily looked up online) for the weight of the car and then it's just a matter of comparing the treadwear rating vs cost and spend however much you're willing to spend.

 

Nm's jump to up around 700-800 at the 300rwkw mark. Ensure you get the tuner to give you a "derived" torque value for the most accurate actual number.

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Hmm, okay. I'm still not sure which of the tune versions I'd rather then. I guess that'll have to be something I'll have to discuss with Pit Lane when I make the booking. I'll have to ask if it's an improved fuel pump too as opposed to a E85-specific one because yeah, otherwise I'll just be buying something I'll never use.

 

Since it's a daily I suspect I will get used to the power quick - but that's a good thing because I don't want to get caught out by it unexpectedly one day. The sooner I'm comfortable and familiar with it the better personally. It's more that I find the current setup lacking - that it runs out of puff/pull too soon for my liking. I want a car that has more left in the tank (so to speak) when it comes to acceleration.

 

Wheels are the stock G6E Turbo 245-35-19's (I think that's the right dimensions). I don't intend to change these since I'm going for the wolf-in-sheep's clothing look; as much as I'd like a complete exhaust system.

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AS regard's the different programs , pcmtec is always adding different parramerters such as boost in gear (from the sprint) , flex fuel etc… a lot of these options are not available on the others. They are the only mob who are actively  developing their system for the  (now discontinued ) falcon. Why would the yanks spend time developing their systems for a tiny (diminishing ) market?  You could buy  S/hand venom cat, herrod air filter , even intercooler but I would buy the injectors & fuel pump new. (a word of advice -buy bigger than what you think you need. you'll  see the sense in this next round of modifications!)  The exhaust doesn't really need to be changed just the cat. A mates got khumo ku39's on his F6 & they stick better than my PS4's  at half the price!

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Yeah I should have said 300kw is still fast, but I've always had cars with 450kw as a average. I'm used to bigger power. Cause I have a small Wang I need a fast car to feel manly.

 

You'll be really happy with 300kw mate

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13 hours ago, tvxfgolzzfekf said:

Wheels are the stock G6E Turbo 245-35-19's (I think that's the right dimensions). I don't intend to change these since I'm going for the wolf-in-sheep's clothing look; as much as I'd like a complete exhaust system.

michelin pilot sport 3 mmmm

 

I had invos on my last BF and I rated some cheap chinese tyres better for grip and longetivity.

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300rwkw will feel fast for you. you will feel the difference from stock. You will enjoy the new found power and after a few months you will be used to it and you will want more.

you may as well sit down with them and say that you don't want to do their stage 3 package as there are some items you don't need.

Tell them what you want and what parts you would like to use and work out a price.

 

To be honest, if I were to do it all again, Stage 2 intercooler. GTX3582r turbo to aim for ~400kw and above. There are no sleeper exahusts for that much power.

Can't use stock exhaust for that power. Xforce exhausts are loud, ask me how I know.

When going for ~400kw, you need to factor in for valve springs and oil pump gears too.

It all adds up.

 

At the moment I am on 380rwkw and still enjoying it. only thing doing my head in is exhaust and the touchy clutch.

Power still makes me smile everyday especially with an empty wallet due to new tires.......

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Well I'm interstate so any negotiations will be done down the wire, which is pretty informal and might seem rude. Speaking of, what happens to the bits that come off the car to be replaced? That old intercooler has to go somewhere, do they usually just sell it to wreckers or something? Might be a douche and ask to keep some bits is all. I don't know how much lead-time I'll need before making the booking, I'm hoping that a couple months advance will ensure getting a date that works for me (factoring travel and days off).

 

As for what I want, I could say I just want to go faster, but in terms of what I'd actually need is another thing and over my head (which I already feel I am!). All this talk too of eventually wanting more power is worrying also, since I was hoping that this would be a case of doing things right the first time so I'm not spending more in the future. Again I have to press that I'm not going for big numbers. I don't have any car enthusiast mates to show off to (no offence intended) so it's just for me really.

 

22 hours ago, Puffwagon said:

You rang?

 

Help! Need more puff! ;)

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Yep,I started out the same ....just get a tune and some valve springs. $45,000 plus later and im at 508RWKS and asking Rob (Monsta Torque) if I should toss the Pte6235 and get the 6466. Its addictive, you always want more. 

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in regards to the parts that come off, well I asked Rob at Monsta torque if I could get my old bits back. I asked him to put them in the boot.

Reason being is that if you want to go back to stock, you can. Then you can sell all your go fast bits.

So @SeduceG6Et67 wants more power after having 508rwkw, which kinda is impressive.

I currently have 379rwkw and it scares the sh*t out of me at times. other times like this morning, it just puts a smile on my face.

 

If you in melbourne, then maybe you should catch up with some of the forum members there and ask them to take you for a drive.

See what it feels like to be in a car with 300rwkw, then a car with 400rwkw and then maybe a car with 500rwkw.

I know I went for a drive with @lennox  in Chris's(is mumba his forum name?) car during one of the maintenance Day's we had at WA.

 

Chris's car was insane. an F6 that would just simply fry tires each time he put his foot down. it was insane.

It was scary and fun all at the same time. I don't think I would go down that path, but I am glad I went for a drive with him on that day.

That kinda gave me an idea of what power level I wanted. 

 

You need to work out what power level you want(set a goal) and then go from there.

Do it once and get it done right. I had to do it twice to get it right. 😞

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8 hours ago, masda74 said:

in regards to the parts that come off, well I asked Rob at Monsta torque if I could get my old bits back. I asked him to put them in the boot.

Reason being is that if you want to go back to stock, you can. Then you can sell all your go fast bits.

Sounds like a good plan, plus if there's a crash or something and I can salvage the expensive bits, I can swap them over.

 

8 hours ago, masda74 said:

If you in melbourne, then maybe you should catch up with some of the forum members there and ask them to take you for a drive.

 

See what it feels like to be in a car with 300rwkw, then a car with 400rwkw and then maybe a car with 500rwkw.

I know I went for a drive with @lennox  in Chris's(is mumba his forum name?) car during one of the maintenance Day's we had at WA.

That's a nice offer, and it would be nice (the fastest car I've driven is the folk's F6; never gave it the full beans but just that little extra - comparative - power was noticeable) but I won't be down there until the day things get done so it'll be a little late. Plus I don't want to impose myself on people who hardly know me; it feels like taking a car listed for sale for a drive and flogging it without the intention of buying (but of course it's the owner driving, not me).

 

8 hours ago, masda74 said:

You need to work out what power level you want(set a goal) and then go from there.

 

Do it once and get it done right. I had to do it twice to get it right. 😞

I personally feel that this is a good platform to start with. It has some parts that should hold up if future mods seem necessary, but the intercooler seems to be sticking in my craw after @masda74 mentioned the Stage 2 intercooler. Oddly, Process West lists the stepped Stage 1 and the regular Stage 2 intercooler kits as the same price, so I don't know what's going on there, and what separates the two technically. Maybe swapping the Stage 1 cooler to Stage 2? If it's going to do an even better job and only costs the difference between say, the PCMTEC and the SCT packages, then it might be worth thinking about. Just throwing it out there.

Edited by tvxfgolzzfekf
Forgot something!

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Power goal is a good idea, you don’t want to do it twice and if you say want 350wkw then get parts that support 450-500wkw because things can happen/break and it’s better to have wiggle room 

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14 hours ago, tvxfgolzzfekf said:

That's a nice offer, and it would be nice (the fastest car I've driven is the folk's F6; never gave it the full beans but just that little extra - comparative - power was noticeable) but I won't be down there until the day things get done so it'll be a little late. 

 

 but the inter-cooler seems to be sticking in my craw after @masda74 mentioned the Stage 2 inter-cooler. Oddly, Process West lists the stepped Stage 1 and the regular Stage 2 inter-cooler kits as the same price, so I don't know what's going on there, and what separates the two technically. Maybe swapping the Stage 1 cooler to Stage 2? 

Please don't get me wrong, I did not offer my manual FG for a drive because I am in Western Australia.

I wasn't suggesting that you take the car for a drive, but that the owner would take it for a drive and you would be the passenger, especially for higher powered vehicles.

The difference between stage 1 and Stage 2 inter-coolers. Stage 1 does not require cutting into you bumper bar(that is why it is stepped), Stage 2 DOES require cutting into your bumper bar.

 

I personally think that Stage 2 allows for higher power figures, should I decide to change from a GTX3576r to a GTX3582r........ :P

Set your goal power figure and go from there. I struggled to work out what my power goal should be until I went for a drive as a passenger in someone else's car.

 

Good luck and welcome to the modding club.

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17 minutes ago, masda74 said:

Stage 1 does not require cutting into you bumper bar(that is why it is stepped), Stage 2 DOES require cutting into your bumper bar.

What actually requires cutting is a plastic cross member behind the bumper that is considered structural and can apparently complicate things insurance-wise in the event of a stack.

 

To what extent I can't remember, someone else may chime in

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3 hours ago, masda74 said:

Please don't get me wrong, I did not offer my manual FG for a drive because I am in Western Australia.

I wasn't suggesting that you take the car for a drive, but that the owner would take it for a drive and you would be the passenger, especially for higher powered vehicles.

 

Of course, that's why I said:

 

18 hours ago, tvxfgolzzfekf said:

(but of course it's the owner driving, not me)

 

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19 hours ago, camo86T said:

Some of these will sort you out

 

if there ever comes a need for me to use them, everyone on this forum has permission to put me out of my misery..

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