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Running Rich / Poor Economy


Ascendancy254

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  • New Member
  • Member For: 5y 7m 12d

Hi All

Long time reader, first time member, not lucky enough to have a turbo yet but the plans are for my XE to go that way (when the missus lets me buy what I need!)

Long running issue with my N/A BA Falcon Ute (4.0 5 speed) which no-one has been able to help with, so here I am, asking the experts!

Story as follows - 

Car was running like a dog so decided to treat it and replace everything that needed to be done -

  • New Rear Exhaust (REDBACK)
  • New Cat and centre muffler
  • New Exhaust Manifold Gasket(s)
  • New Intake Gasket
  • New Plenum Gasket
  • New TB Gasket
  • Reco Throttle Body
  • New TPS Sensor
  • New MAP Sensor
  • New Fuel Pressure Reg. (2.7 bar standard)
  • Fuel Rail Removed and Cleaned
  • New Injectors (295cc Standard)
  • New Air Filter
  • New Rocker Cover Gasket and Plug Seals
  • New Iridium Plugs
  • New Coil Packs
  • New Thermostat
  • New Battery Terminals
  • New Alternator
  • New O2 Sensor (Three times - Still do not know if the others were faulty)
  • 19.5 - 20 inHg of Manifold Vacuum
  • Approx 1L of fuel return in 60 seconds (close enough to without fully measuring)
  • Been to independent Mechanic
    • No idea?
  • Been to Ford dealer
    • No Idea? (side note, DO NOT EVER GO TO FORD ON BURWOOD HIGHWAY VICTORIA - LYING PACK OF THIEVES!!!)
  • Ex Toyota Technician Checked
    • No Idea? (neighbour)
  • Issue -
    • fault code P1132 - Car is using about 16 - 17L/100km (up from 10.5 - 11L/100km)

I have spent a small fortune on this car over the past few months and still have not been able to find or fix the issue!

Anyone can finally give me the answers I need will have either a bottle of scotch / whiskey / bourbon or a slab (up to $150) sent directly to them (or handed over in person if you are close enough) as it is currently costing me $160 a week in fuel and my sanity!!!!

Live in Epping Vic, car is in Bayswater Vic.

Any help would be amazing!

Cheers in advance

Shane

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  • less WHY; more WOT
  • Site Developer
  • Member For: 16y 14d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne

with everything you've changed there; (which is basically everything) the only guesses I'd have are the following:

- Previous owner had it tuned but never told you and it's expecting to be modified (pretty unlikely - extremely unlikely based on your 2nd post)

- Skipped a tooth on the timing chain. 

- PCV circuit is blocked or not working correctly so airflow is causing issues there.

 

:Welcome2FordXR6t: 

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  • Puff
  • Gold Donating Members
  • Member For: 9y 2m 26d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: South Australia

Haha the last time someone offered beer I gave them a 100% workable solution and they decided that they'd rather send the beer to someone else. No help for you.

 

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  • Member For: 5y 7m 12d

Hi K31th, really appreciate the input.

I have changed the PCV 2 or 3 times now (I have done that much I am forgetting things) to no avail.

Air flow through the Vacuum hose is good and there appears to be no blockages but I did not that when the TB is to open air (air box and piping removed) and I put a vacuum gauge in to the vacuum hose to the intake manifold, the car either tries to or does stall...

I have also noticed the butterflies within the plenum are chattering even though the vacuum actuator is fully closed... not sure if this helps?

I am also getting 19.5 - 20inHg at the fuel pressure regulator BUT when I remove this vacuum line, nothing seems to change?

Even though the reg is new and I am getting the 1L in 60 sec return, could the reg still be faulty?

 

Hi Puffwagon

hahaha I know your pain on that one as well so no dramas bloke!

If you decide to change your mind the offer stands!

 

Cheers

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  • Puff
  • Gold Donating Members
  • Member For: 9y 2m 26d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: South Australia

Haha all good mate, I was just being a turkey.

 

Is the wiring to the O2 sensor all good? It's not burnt, broken or corroded or anything like that? Is the plug clean? Are the pins properly seated? If it's filled with oil, water or has corrosion on it then that would be something to fix up.

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  • Member For: 5y 7m 12d

Hi Puffwagon

 

Connector is clean and free of debris and any other collective garbage.

Getting full voltage at the connector and resistance is where it should be on the heating element (as per workshop manual)

I have run some live data (using FORSCAN) and everything seems to be where it should be? (unless I am reading it wrong?)

Manifold pressure at idle is 33kPa with a MAP voltage of 1.36V (for memory) and the voltage moves with the manifold pressure as it should.

After memory clear (battery D/C for 24 hours), the car will start and idle great for about 2 minutes (roughly, might be less?) and then cough splutter and fart and go like a dog again.

Do you know how long cold start runs for?

Could it be the CHT is faulty but not showing up as such and the car is stuck in cold start mode?

The O2 keeps coming up with Open Loop fault when running data as well

Really appreciate the time guys!

Cheers

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  • less WHY; more WOT
  • Site Developer
  • Member For: 16y 14d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne

well, if you just make sure they are instructed to only diagnose, it won't be prohibitively expensive, but they're a performance workshop, so they won't be cheap in terms of labour rates

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