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eff xr6t

Ef Xr6 500kw 10sec manual sh*tter

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So bit bored decided I could write a thread on the build of my POS I bought this car in 2012 when I was 16 as my first car and its just got out of control since haha. I'll do a list of current specs plus pevious build specs. and probably copy most of the build from other forums..

 

Current pb is a 10.94@132 manual

 

Specs

 

1996 Ef Xr6

 

Motor

-Stock ef bottom end with ~300000km no rod bolts or new ring/bearing I popped one cap off to check bearings then put it back on because the motor had a blocked pickup and took 30secs to build oil pressure in the car I pulled it from haha

-AU falcon head ported by me with pep-pro stainless valves seats all re cut by my mate at his machine shop.

-Stock Au mls gasket with arp studs holding it down

-Surecam custom hydraulic cam used the closest master profile he had to the specs I was looking for..basically about 220@50 540"lift its pretty angry for a baby cam...

-Crow valve springs with stock Au rockers and lifters

 

Intake and fuel system

-Tunnel vision intake manifold 

-Fg fly by wire throttle body

-2200cc injectors

-Fuel cell in the boot, 100 micron filter>1400hp holley dominator pump>10 micron filter> AN8 feed to and from rail> proflow fuel reg.

 

Exhaust and turbo

-Turbo manifold I built at home. steam pipe 6 into 1 collector divided into the t4 flange 40m pipe off each side of the collector merged into a 60mm gate

-Turbosmart 60mm power gate (14psi spring)

-2.5" screamer vented behind the front tire

-Garret gt3788r .89 rear housing

-4" dump straight off the turbo into the 4" exhaust with one big muffler before the diff.

 

Engine management

-Link G4+ Extreme ecu running sequential ign/inj.

-Racepak iq3 dash

-6x ls1 coils mounted on a bracket off the intake manifold bolts

-Fuel/oil/coolant pressure sensors all fed to the ecu

-Fuel/oil/coolant/air temp sensors all fed to the ecu

-Ethrolle controled by the G4 with a BA pedal in the car and FG throttle body.

-Boost controlled by the G4 with a 4 port solenoid

-Launch control/2step with a switch, speed and time control so it doesnt come on when shifting gears.

 

Gearbox and diff

-T56 converted from a ba turbo

-Direct ceramic solid centre twin plate. (3100lb of clamp now)

-Final drive built 3.5" chro moly tailshaft with strange billet yoke, 1350 series unis front and back.

-ATM it has 3.45 borgwarner diff with a spool standard 28 spline axles. Getting a 9" built atm with 35spline axles 3.7 gears strange nodular iron carrier with a full spool.

 

that's about it really the whole car is built by me from fab work,engine building to tuning so stuff only gets done when I can be I <3 Bananased doing it.. 

 

 

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Will start with this and add some more in another post.

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Wish I had some more videos of this doing skids but unfortunately it usual ends up not getting caught on video so here's what I've got that has been got on camera and is safe to post on the internet haha.

 

Powercruise 2016.. this was the first event for the current setup. I flew home from work on the thursday night to the car with a brand new setup full new turbo manifold/intake and ecu had not even had the chance to get it started. So got home thursday night at 10pm walked into the shed with my laptop confirgured all the inputs and outputs to what I had wired put my calculated VE map in it with injector data set all the base timing and bam fired into life perfectly.. called it a night before the neighbours started calling the cops haha its fkn loud with a 4" exhaust dumped at the diff echoing out the shed.. so its now friday powercruise has started and car has a total run time of 5mins.. better hurry up and tune it so I can go make use of my entry, drove it out to my mates workshop to strap it on the dyno for a few quick pulls threw 12* of timing on boost and did 3 pulls to get 20psi of boost in it made around 400kw held good AFR's so that was it good for a casual beat up in the weekends cruise sesions.. lasted all of 1 day not being casual till powerskids got called up

 

Decided fk it tune seemed happy enough may aswell see if itll do the powerskids, first go dumped 3rd shift to 4th and it bogged next lap decided 4th is the only gear needed and its either going on the trailer with another welded clutch or itll do a good skid.. it decided not to weld it self and held for a good skid this time so here it is..

 

29min in on the powercruise live stream is a white 34 skyline then this heap of sh*t getting let go at 6000rpm in 4th gear.. can probably here my limiter settings are abit aggresive with the rpm drop everytime it hits it. like I said it got the 10min tune up and loaded on the trailer to get to the event.

Idle vid from last years Racewars inspections.

 

Gazzanats a couple of years ago with 330kw

Edited by eff xr6t

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Most of my photos of this build are on photo bucket so have added some to imgur for people that dont have the photobucket embed link fix.

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10 second manual timeslips had quite abit of trouble with clutch slipping plus missing gears which can be seen in the slow shifts on the data log.

SDE1YaU.jpg

re7VT2I.png

Edited by eff xr6t

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Copying posts over from other forums doesn't work very well with phagotbucket so here's some pics and vids from a recent last minute decision the day before Gazzanats to go do some skids.

f08dede2c04c96293a0cf90ed3d3f57a.jpg
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Little video from a young guy that was checking out the car and asked to come for some laps when I had spare seats.



Powerskids qualifying from Saturday only did one skid to qualify then finals on Sunday for cancelled because of rain :(. Straight up dump 4th on the spot about 22psi boost 7000rpm old standard motor loves this sh*t


For a total prep time of an hour to fit up a few sets of tyres and no prep to the car it was a mint weekend of skids and piss drinking.

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@eff xr6t

Dunno what I'm missing something here, but given it's not uncommon for BA donks to pop @ 350-400rwkw if not tuned very carefully, how the phark can a stock e series bottom end handle 500rwkw and 20+psi???

I assume Ford's engine development didn't go backwards between EF and the first DOHC barra

 

In any case :bowdown:

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E series are one of the strongest stock motors. It all went backwards at AU for conrod strength and they carried the sh*t jelly rods straight through to the Barra. Ea-ef rods are different length to au-fg by about 4mm so can't be interchanged and it's made up for in a different pin height in the pistons. Longer rod and higher pins height makes them smoother and meant to be less stress on the pistons skirts. EF/el rods are probably pretty comparable to bf mk2/fg turbo but late model Barra ones I would consider stronger.

 

Au/ba

Biggest issue the motors have is the auxiliary shaft that drives the oil pump and cam sync sensor they wear badly and are know for stripping if after market gears and used on the oil pump drive. Again ef/El are the strongest aux shaft and au have had more issues with the wear. We allmost got caught with a stripped aux in my mates car that was 380 thou km and we caught it when cut a filter and it was full of metal and sure enough pulled the cam sensor out and it was just about to let go.

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Interbreasting!!

Reason for sh*t rods? cost cutting is all I can think of

 

Might send you a few annoying pm's about in the near future, my little brother is looking at buying his mate's maverick

Bit of a mongrel iirc but has an EF/EL built motor, gt45 with top mount W2A cooler, and running a t400.

Not sure of power, only 15psi atm. Only has stock ford pcm which I'm guessing would be the biggest restriction

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I'd say abit if cost cutting and also to reduce the rotating weight to make the motor smoother. They are well over engineered for a standard car so they wouldn't have seen the need to bolt big heavy rods in there when the motor was only built to make like 140kw. Only became an issue when they bolted a turbo to the Barra with the same rods and realised they were sh*t haha.

Yeh go for it man would be cool to check it out. It isn't a grey mq shorty is it? If it is the same one I've seen it from the forums years ago he put a th400 in it from the manual then hated the way it drove so sold it haha. Was a lot of custom alloy fab work done on it.

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Grey GQ, may be the same 

Haha can imagine

Apparently it's been engineered with the motor and gearbox...but not the turbo lolol

Imo a smaller turbo would make more sense anyway, 45 seems a total waste for something that'll be a daily/camping rig

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Grey GQ, may be the same 

Haha can imagine

Apparently it's been engineered with the motor and gearbox...but not the turbo lolol

Imo a smaller turbo would make more sense anyway, 45 seems a total waste for something that'll be a daily/camping rig

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Stock motor plus 40psi what could go wrong haha. But I am looking to upgrade to a 42-45 on this just garret and precision prices have gone through the roof lately so it's something that has to wait untill I get my Xt fairmont painted and can street it.

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Went racing the other week while home to try beat my 10.94 pass before season closes for winter. Got 3 half track passes before it broke an axle again. 804d433a0415aa9fae5a2f826c22f8cc.jpg

Contributing factors would have been the extra boost since last time it's now got 27psi in it but the axles must have been a weak set as they are the worse condition pair I've seen for such a small amount of time they have been in there.

 

Since last time racing I've built a set of semi solid engine mounts as the motor moved too much with stock mounts and kept causing me to miss gears if I didn't grandma shift it. Much better now I'm able to throw it properly hard and haven't missed any shifts even with it still running a standard Ford shifter and a horrible bent linkage to fit under the standard falcon centre console. I'm confident the physical engagement of the syncros are the only thing slowing down shifts now, so I'm looking into finding a second t56 so that I can get the gears faceplated and turn on flat shifting so don't have the delay of it coming back on boost each gear change.

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Had aimed to get a pass lower then 10.5@138+mph in it before I pulled the standard motor out but don't think I'll get a chance to race again with this setup as I need most of it to start fabricating exhaust and intercooler pipes in my 68 xt. Had the potential to run the times but due to work I haven't been able to make any race nights for most of the season which is unfortunate.

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Yeh currently have a 9inch with 35spline axles, strange centre full spool all the good sh*t half built but was on the hunt for some bigger wheels for the street before I make the length to suit them. Finding wheels with the right offset to fit these is allmost impossible. Front needs a 18x9.5 +10 or less and rear like 18x10.5-11 in a 0-+10 offset which without going custom works at like 3k I can't currently find any other suitable options. Think I'll just bite the bullet and make it standard length for now and if I have to change it later then so be it.

Planning on using the gearbox along with my old setup and putting it in another shell I have sitting on the farm so I can go drifting over winter while I cage and paint this chassis but can see myself having more fun drifting and pushing this into the back corner of the shed for a while and come back to it later.

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They are a standard e series falcon front camber arm bush. I bought a full front rebush kit that was cheaper with the camber kit then to buy separately so I just used them to make the engine mounts for cheap. Definitely noticed the change when I fitted them. Not really vibrations but just that the noise transfer from the motor is more noticeable. But this car has a big cam, spooled diff and a solid ceramic clutch and I find no issue with driving it daily so my tolerance to things like that must be higher then the average person

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Little update on this sh*t heap. Had the diff built now runs a 9 inch with 35 spline axles strange 3.250 case with motive 3.7 gears and a full spool so its bullet proof...

 

Its had a busy last few months while I was waiting on the diff I pulled the motor for a while and welded all the holes in the engine bay smooth all the spot welds and removed anything I didnt require and got my spray painter mate to give me a hand and advice on my first go at painting. Also deleted the header tank made a top housing for the thermostat with a cap and welded over the now not required fittings on the radiator.

L1gr1EF.jpg

 

Headgasket has been showing signs of leaking for a while now and the removal of the header tank brought it to the surface at powercruise. Over the whole weekend im pretty sure I put over 100litres of water through the motor. Still had a good weekend of beating up on it for 10-15 laps then come in and fill it with more water hahaha.

 

 

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After powercruise I put a fresh gasket in it ready for west coast nats and took it back for more punishment. After west coast I took it back to the track to go for a low 10 time slip now I have a diff that will hold up. Got 5 passes sorting out the closed loop boost control and tune before it broke and had a serious gearbox whine in the breaking area. Upon investigating I pulled the entire gearbox down to find no issues so went looking back to the flywheel while bolting the pressure plate on I noticed the flywheel rock on the back of the motor. So pretty sure I found the cause of the gearbox whine I pullled the motor friday night and this is what I found....

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Motor was still running perfectly and didnt make any noises at idle or while running to indicate the break. Plan is to wash everything and put another crank in with the old bearings and see how much further it can go. Stock rods and pistons still hanging in there and loving life as allways.

Edited by k31th
fixed pics

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that's some serious damage to the crank... it was absolutely amazing that it was still holding in there with a large bit of cracking like that. :bowdown: :buttrock: :icon_ford:

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Cheers for fixing the pics Keith I ran out of edit time to fix them last night haha. 

 

Yeh was pretty much only all holding together because of the break being behind the no6 big end journal. The only way I could tell there was an issue was the gearbox noise and if this was an auto I don’t think there would of been a way to know that it was broken. So people with transbraked autos and standard cranks I would be slightly worried if your transbrake happy haha

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