Oils Aint Oils <Merged Thread>

[Santo]

I have read this thread over twice, just trying to get my head around it all...

'06 BF 'phoon with 100,000+kms

Last oil change was filled with magnatec 10w-40...

possibly contemplating changing to a nulon 10w-40/50.. but so far I must admit I dont find a problem with the magnatec.

I understand there is much debate throughout this thread, but in the fpv manual they recommend a mineral based 15w/40, so is going full synth a bad thing?

oh and FYI, I change oil consistently between 5000-7500 klms, regardless of how good the oil is, it is just what I do.

thanks for the help!

[Lawsy]

That's fair enough Santo, you're not alone there that's for sure mate. Oils is a pain in the ass until you get to the bottom of the barrel and work your way up from there, so to speak...

Here's the trick with oils though mate, by its very nature you're not going to really notice a "problem" as such. You never will, really, unless you've got it completely wrong (which you haven't, you've stuck with the right viscosity, which is the most important thing and you've got it spot on, so 10 points there). Its the hidden benefit that you're missing out on though...

In your case, you're motor has run from new (I assume) on magnatec. Now there's nothing wrong with that, it is a good oil, I just personally don't like it because of the ridiculous marketing that goes with it.

That being said, you should notice a slight improvement in smoothness and a slight drop in your fuel economy if you were to switch to the Nulon oil. Put it this way, you have two choices. Protection wise, the 10w-40 is going to exceed the current protection performance you're motor is getting with the magnatec. You'll simply be losing less power due to pumping loss, therefor gaining in the economy area.

So that's an improvement in economy and performance as well as a slight improvement in protection.

The second option you have is the 15w-50. Now, for all intents and purposes, due to having a greater reduction in friction and being on the thinner side of things for a 15w-50, the engine will have to work just as hard as it does now to pump the oil around. So your engine will be none the wiser as such. But you'll significantly gain in the protection area, just not in the performance or economy area, as the difference will be negligible.

And as to your fully synthetic question, no, it can not hurt going to a fully synthetic, you can only benefit from the higher sheer strength, a more stable viscosity and detergent package as well as a higher resistance to oxidisation. There are no negatives other than price, but you gain more in the protection/economy stakes to more than compensate for the price difference.

Now I know you love doing your oil changes every 5-7 thou, but if you switch to the Nulon, try and make it an even 8 or 10... You're simply wasting money here (assuming you don't thrash the pants off it on a daily basis). If you do thrash it dailing, then fine, every 5 thou, but even then, there isnt much point. If you service at a consistant 8 thousand, you'll be a happy camper in the pocket and your engine will be a happy camper as well.

Also note, supercheap sell the 10w-40 in a 6L bottle for almost the same price as the 5L bottle, which is one of the reasons I recommend so much, you get more oil and more a better performing oil for your money....

Hope that clears it up.

[SuckSqueezeBangBlow]

I've become so sold on the Nulon products. I put the 10W-40 in the motor, the 80W-140 Heavy Duty LSD oil in the diff, a bottle of E30 PTFE treatment in the motor and a tube of G70 diff additive in the diff. haven't noticed any better fuel economy, the car usually just gets driven to the shops about 5 minutes away and never gets to warm up with only the occasional 30 minute trip.

[jasol]

jono- did you need to use the g70 in the diff? or can the oil be used as is with no aditives like the castrol saf-xa?

[jasonxr695]

Hell I thought this forum would help but I'm just more confused than ever

I have had Castrol GTX Protec 15-40 in my T since I owned it and change every 10.000km

I'm at 40.000km now and was looking into a fully syn oil and from what I can tell

Nulon 10-40 seems the best option, one thing though is it available in New Zealand.

My other options were either Castrol magnetic or castrol edge and would NZ conditions make a difference? it can be cold here at times.

THX

[SuckSqueezeBangBlow]

jasol - I don't think I had to add the G70, but I thought I would anyway. The Nulon website says the LSD oil contains an additive already, but its not the one listed in the Ford manual.

[jasol]

yea I brought the nulon hd 80-140 it says its for fpv's etc and meets the ford standard in there manual but ford say it needs a friction modifyer with there recomended oil think it was mobil, the nulon says the extra ford friction modiflyer is not needed, I know the castrol one doesnt need it either, the nulon and castrol were the same price I chose the nulon coz that's wat I use for the engine

[red rocket]

im almost due for an oil change, last time I changed it I chucked in CASTROL EDGE: 6L of 10W-60 and 1L of 0W-40 these oils havent been mentioned should I change ?

[PHANTMXR6]

Nice mine.

Why would you mix two different grades of oil?

The general consensus is Nulon 10W-40 full synthetic.

There's plenty of threads you can read up on in this section.

[GR8XR6]

I use 10-40 royal purple, not the dearer race performance one, just the dear normal performance brand!

I also have been using it in my 4 stroke rover mower for the last 6months as I was to lazy to buy oil from the shop when I was doing the change...lol

Mower is running mickey mouse!

How's the mower still going?

Bloody good read this whole thread! A must before asking what is the best oil!

Edited 01/10/09 01:29 PM by GR8XR6