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DC-Auto

04' mk2 BA ute 554rwkw

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My 04' BA ute used to be the pride of chiptorque on the gold coast, and has been around for a long time by 4 different owners. I managed to track down the owners and get an idea of the history.

 

I bought the car making 743rwhp (554rwkw) on E85, and 606rwhp (452rwkw) on pump98, but was in very sad shape. Maintenance had been neglected, needed ball joints, tyres, rackends, oil leak repairs, misfiring badly, sh*t matt black territory rims, 2 layers of tint darker than 5%, etc etc

 

The car was running a Direct Clutch twin plate button, great clutch, but was taking its toll on me around town (car accident injuries).. After replacing the concentric slave, and master cylinder twice I had enough, and converted it to auto.

After the conversion, took it out to Willowbank Raceway and promptly melted number 5 piston, which is found out through the previous owners, this is the 3rd time (still ran 11.3 on low boost, on 5 cylinders, backing off just after half track). Time for another rebuild. Going through the older dyno sheets, I found that the AFR's were as lean as 13.6:1 with thanks to 80lb injectors maxed out.

 

ENGINE (*NEWLY PURCHASED)

Nizpro crank girdle

ARP bolts throughout

ARP head studs

Billet oil pump gears

Hardened backing plate

*JE custom forged pistons

*JE chromoly rings

SCAT rods

*Powerbond Race Balancer

*Atomic Simplex timing chain

*Atomic stage 4.5 cams

*Atomic valve springs

*Atomic Ti retainers

*Paul Gilbert ported and polished race head with oversized valves

 

*Nizpro Plenum

*2200cc Bosch Motorsport Injectors

*Turbosmart FPR1200

*Plazmaman fuel rail

Garrett T04Z, A/R1.15 84mm in / 66.7mm ex

Nizpro stainless manifold

*Turbosmart 50mm progate

4" defilipo exhaust

Nizpro Stage 2 Intercooler kit

Turbosmart BOV

 

*Haltech Elite 2500 w/ flex sensor

*Innovate wideband AFR meter w/ data log and linked to haltech for auto tune

*FG coils

 

DRIVELINE

Precise Automatic 1500hp reverse pattern TH400 w/ transbrake

Torque Power Bellhousing

Converter Shop 3500rpm stall

Hardy Spicer tailshaft

2.73 M86 diff that has suprising put up with the abuse (soon to have a TruTrac centre, to make do while I put pennies away for the 9" conversion)

TCI outlaw shifter

 

THE REST

Koni adjustables all round

Low King spring front, Reset leafs rear

Territory front rotors

18x11 & 18x8 Work Emotion rims, 275/40 & 245/45 Federal RSR  --  275/40/17 et street on BF XR6 rims -- 275/65/15 et street pro on ProStar 15x10 5.5" BS

F6 Typhoon frp front bar

Genuine hardlid

35% tint

FPV FG rocker cover

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Edited by DC-Auto
adjustments

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550rwkw on E85 through 80lb junkers and only 13.6afrs haha better than I thought 

 

what muppet last tuned that ? 

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Nope I wouldn't, there's a poor pro drifter that slides a FG ute that's been through about 5 engines now and each one melts pistons 5 or 6 so they just keep replacing the engine and roll 80lb dekas also and assume the tune is still ok ... muppets everywhere I tell ya lol

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The older these cars get the more amateurs out there that think they can tune. Probably only a dozen in the country and 1/2 of them that are really on the job.

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this was last tuned way back in 07' (by previous owner), I'm pretty picky when it comes to tuners. In SE QLD Forced Performance seem to be the go to guys, but Phantom Performance and Ash Mason of WTS I rate very highly as well. 

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it has been a while since I have made any updates, I have been doing some tuning with Ash Mason from Wiring and Tuning Solutions, and we have ran into a few small problems with sensors and fuel pumps which has limited our tuning sessions. So far the results are promising but we are far from our 26-28psi tuning targets, and so far we have only had a chance to tune on pump 98 fuel, don't forget this is through a 1500hp transbraked TH400 with a 3500rpm stall which robs power.

9.7psi = 524rwhp

14psi = 571rwhp

16psi = 593rwhp

17psi = 609rwhp

We are expecting over 700rwhp on pump 98 at 28psi, but our tuning was cut short, the 10yr old Bosch 044's were getting tired and fuel pressure was dropping off at 7000rpm. 

Since last post, I have done a little more work, Racepack street dash has gone in to compliment the Haltech elite information. TrueTrack and diff rebuild with 3.45:1 gearing, CVR Brake vacuum pump has been installed as I have about -3" of vacuum without it. New mac electronic boost solenoid as my old one had died, and a magnafuel pro tuner 750 (2000hp rated) fuel pump and new fuel lines  

 

9psi Dyno run

Atomic cams

Edited by DC-Auto

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I wouldn't say happy Dyno I'd just say efficient motor. I tuned my mates single cam and made 390kw on 5-6psi... if it's got a set of cams that make use of the efficiency then it's easily doable.

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there's only so much a cam can push on a valve to be opened and how long it's open for and there's an obvious diminishing return point and you reach a maximum... but I won't get any further into it than that, because you obviously know these things already. Dyno is just a tuning tool, anyway :) let's see what it runs on the strip :spoton:

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It runs 10.8 manual with 390kw haha. I think you will be suprised with what your own car will make if you even get it running again... big turbo makes the power easyer to achieve and you've got size in that department covered.

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Keith.    Cams make all the difference to power up in the 7k + zone.  

 

Doesn't even compare to standard cams  at 6k 

 

In the old days cams and upping the compression were the things to produce big peak power. 

 

These days you just add e85 and crank up the timing and boost

Edited by arronm

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sounds like it would just shift the powerband, in that sort of "old days" application, wouldn't it? upping compression would definitely work, but it's not used in this scenario.

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True.  I am talking 350 chevs in the mid 80s.

 

You probably weren't even born

 

In fact when I was swinging spanners on cars and bikes most of the dudes on this forum weren't even born

 

Young spuds hey, you don't realize how good you got it these days.

 

I couldn't Google sh*t. Just had to sort it out myself.

Edited by arronm

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of course E85 makes a difference.. a big one... but you're right with the birth stats, but that's irrelevant..., we have it great :) power is easily made these days with race fuel at the bowser :spoton:

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Surprised he didn't list his engineering degree :pandalol:

 

I really don’t want to reference this post by Dynomite performance again but here we go. Just because a Barra can make 1000hp with stock cams, does not mean cams will do nothing for performance. Surely the guy who owns the worlds fastest Barra would have some idea? It’s like everyone on this forum hates cams

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7 hours ago, k31th said:

sounds like it would just shift the powerband, in that sort of "old days" application, wouldn't it? upping compression would definitely work, but it's not used in this scenario.

7 hours ago, arronm said:

True.

 

Both statements are untrue and the principles in discussion are no different now than they were in the "old days".

 

Do you even compression bros? Do you even camshaft?

 

Cams don't just shift the powerband and "upping the compression" definitely played a part in the car making more power with the progressive dyno runs.

 

Adding boost is raising the dynamic compression ratio and using different cams can raise or lower compression as well as change flow characteristics.

 

7 hours ago, arronm said:

I couldn't Google sh*t. Just had to sort it out myself. 

 

Google wasn't around when I was younger either.

 

Here's a google search for the pair of ya anyone to read about compression ratios and camshafts. Here's another one to help with understanding flow.

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Major difference between boosted cars and N/A. Cams DO shift the power and torque curve.

 

No "progressive dyno runs" back in the day, cause WHO had a dyno.

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