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How to get that 60ft down


insanegrunt

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  • Member For: 15y 5m 24d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Bundaberg, QLD

First time out with the 275/40/17's MT ET S/S Radials and got a PB of 11.9 @ 121mph in my ZF FG XR6T
But with a 1.99 60ft. Most 60ft times I've bene getting are 2.0 or 2.1 and can't seem to go past the 1.99

Any advice on how to drop my 60ft times? Got XYZ Coilovers in and set on soft front and rear 
Stall on foot and hand brake. Tyres on 18psi 

Cheers in advance!

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  • Manual mode ________________________ All day, erryday
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  • Member For: 16y 4m 5d
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  • Location: Probably above atmospheric pressure

Lots of boost on the line, don't hold it for too long or you overheat the box, and don't break your driveline hahaha.

 

I'm too scared to put a set of slicks on.  Best 60 footer I've gotten is 1.9 as well.

 

 

Also "shallow stage" - stop juuuuuuuuuuust as the second staging light is lit up (when rolling forwards to stage).  Makes a tiny bit of difference since the car can roll a tad before it is detected as moving by the equipment.

Edited by discostig
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  • less WHY; more WOT
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  • Member For: 15y 11m 19d
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  • Location: Melbourne

if you want good launches with regard to shock-absorber softness then the front needs to be soft and the rear needs to be stiff.

 

with regard to launching a ZF with 275 MT's:

Left foot hard on brake, pull handbrake on, push throttle until it starts to creep a tiny bit, back off throttle a tiny bit so that it settles still and build as much boost as you're willing to hammer through the tailshaft... Then simultaneously drop the handbrake quickly, let off the brake and ease the throttle to 100% to minimize/prevent wheelspin. Experiment based on surface :spoton::3gears:

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  • Member For: 12y 7m 4d
53 minutes ago, k31th said:

if you want good launches with regard to shock-absorber softness then the front needs to be soft and the rear needs to be stiff.

Can tell most of your driving is that of a keyboard......

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  • less WHY; more WOT
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  • Member For: 15y 11m 19d
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  • Location: Melbourne

ok, tell me how that process is wrong, then?

You want the weight to transfer to the rear and push hard onto the surface where the MT's are stuck to and taking the power you're delivering to it... there's extra grip that the extra downward force (momentum mass over the rear axle due to the front lifting and the back staying still) gives to those tyres from a slightly wider contact patch with soft tyres means it can take more torque from the driveline :spoton:

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  • FREAKY
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  • Member For: 14y 3m 4d
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  • Location: Melbourne

build more boost as long as the rest is right. 

 

I use a gauge to help me. if your good some guys use revs and time it how long they build boost to achieve what they want. 

 

I was the same always 60ft 1.9s/2.0s now im in the 1.6s

 

practice

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