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SipposBFT

Pump Gears

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If your going to spend all that money on installing billet gears may as well throw in a hardened backing plate and get the housing galleries as well as relief valve modified

 

Being a manual and my driving style , I tell to hit the limiter quite regular. 

 

Its  an easy job with an engine rebuild, but just pump when engine is in car is a big job. 

 

Atomic and Nizpro do the fully modified assemblies. 

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Run the risk. I've never seen a broken backing plate.
And I'd only MOD the relief if your going to turn big rpm, and I'd only turn big rpm if I had upgraded valves.

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Am hearing & understand all yr theories... But yes... If the backing plate isn't worn.. There won't b any pressure bypass through the plate... And assuming relief valve mod just holds more pressure inside Ye engine through harder Spring... Anyone change Spring themselves? 

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The pressure relief mods are to increase bypass at high revs to keep pressure under control and reduce the chance of splitting the housing.

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I'm trying to make a decision on pump gears also

So far it seems to make sense to spend a bit extra on the complete atomic pump changeover option @ $990, which already has billet end plate and reliefs

 

Also cheaper for tuner to install the whole unit as the old one doesn't need to be stripped down

Plus no need to worry about the condition of your existing housing

Edited by camo86T

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3 hours ago, Ralph Wiggum said:

The pressure relief mods are to increase bypass at high revs to keep pressure under control and reduce the chance of splitting the housing.

So if I am not planning to increase revs past current limiter (not sure if 450ish rwkw is possible) there's no need 4 this? 

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Am being serious masdang!!! ??.  Wel knowledge is King & another convo with John ... Says they've done numerous xrs with 500+ rw without plate changes which r still going  ok... As the only concern with these pumps are the sintered gears disintegration... It should b fine 

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Dude its your engine and cash, do what you like. I dont take chances , whole atomic assembly  is only a grand.

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On 04/07/2016 at 5:46 PM, Ezy2Confuze said:

...That price looks uber cheap...

Tourqueline garage has atomic and TLG pumps and timing chain sets from atomic $2000 should get you a full atomic pump and H/D atomic chain, guides and tensioner includes billet crank sprocket

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What's TLG quality like?

No cheaper than Atomic for complete pump - that $1000 price is if you supply your own original pump "...in good condition"

Atomic does the same thing for $990 and is proven

Edited by camo86T
wrong word

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Just do it!

Price is not to even become a factor in the decision....

I was told that my motor was fitted with a set.....

It wasn't, and now I'm looking into the costs of a full rebuild, because of someones lies (while selling me the car)??

I would have fitted them myself if I knew they weren't "actually" fitted.

If an engine can't breath, it chokes.... If an engine can't lube it dies, very quickly. 

Not a risk worth taking, trust me.

 

oil_pump_gears.jpg

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I have decided I should upgrade the factory oil pump gear full assembly to "insure" my FG Xr6t engine. It has the usual required mods and has been tuned to 375rwkw on 98@14psi.

It is an auto with 87k klms and I did speak to 3 speed shops in Cairns today about it and have a bit of conflicting info about whether the engine needs to come out or not.

 

1st shop in Cairns which also has a shop in Townsville, said they've done hundreds and do all pump mods inhouse, gears, porting, relief valve etc, said motor pretty much had to come out, couldn't really give a price cause you never know what you'll find in there maybe due to mods etc. Made me feel a bit uneasy, but then again this is new to me.

 

2nd shop do more GM work and weren't too sure, but did to their credit called Nizpro who agreed the motor should come out. I did give him the info about auto /power, which I assume he passed on and Nizpro said it prolly doesn't need doing. I also mentioned that I was not the burnout type but the tyres on a ute mostly cannot hold the power and the thing free wheels to 6250rpm or whatever in 1st and 2nd and maybe 3rd often before the traction control kicks in. (yeah still got the training wheels on) Maybe I could just learn to drive it!

 

3rd shop which was recommended by the diesel mechanic at my work who said they have done a quite a few without removing the motor for about 8 hours labour, I supply the pump, various gaskets and whatever else I want to bring along.

 

So any thoughts from the Fordxr6turbo brains trust are very welcome.

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it can be done without removing the engine from the car, but it's a tricky endeavour which can lead to being required to remove the motor if you can't get it done that way. go with the diesel mechanic, based on what you've said there.

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