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FiftyOne

Failed transmission thermostat

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I noticed over the last few weeks the coolant level dropping ever so slightly but haven't thought much of it. Turns out I've got a leak from around the middle of the thermostat housing that supplies the transmission.  I believe these where standard fit to automatic FPV's (B) and taken off in the FG series all together. I've read that these have also been discontinued from ford which I'll look in to more tomorrow. 

 

Any suggestions as to a fix? Few options are;

find a spare

take it out and route it normally (like all the other zf boxes in the range) 

try and find a for like replacement (which I think may be difficult)

god forbid, chemiweld (no I'm not going down this road)

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They are discontinued. Most dealers will give you a blank look if you ask for the part as it appears to be a single spec (FPV) one or two model year part.

 

I used two 3/4  to 5/8 (19 top 16mm) brass barbed 90's to replace the cooler

 

I'm sure you've probably seen my thread but below is the parts diagram from Ford.

 

 

4iz5xYO.jpg

 

 

 

there are some pic of how my setup ended up. NB: at the time I was running the PWR trans cooler.

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Not just installed on fpv's. I had one in my bf2 xr6t fail. Thermostat was stuck internally and not routing the coolant to the heater so I had no heater.

For me it was the perfect opportunity to throw it and the heat exchanger in the bin and install the pwr heat exchanger and just used extra hose in its place.

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Cheers Ralph, appreciated. Yes, that's the thread I had seen

 

Gave the local dealer a call and the parts interpreter knew they did a few in the early days, as of 10-06 there was apparently a tech bulletin which was to remove it all together. The other option they floated was to get a heater tap from repco/bursons. 

I've already gone through the cooler replace. I'll do a bit more reading up on it and sleep on it before I decide what I'll do

Edited by FiftyOne

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So I grabbed a drill and an old set of injectors tonight, bored them out, installed them and it didn't fix my issue. So I went a bit deeper. 

 

Below are the tell tail signs of some sort of cooling system failure. Before even opening the system there was an unhealthy green sheen under everything rearward of my issue

IMG_5360.JPG

 

Looking around I expected it to be a clamp on one of the lines to the trans cooler I had replaced over a year ago. Unfortunately not the case. I had trouble getting an image but I could see the highest point of the leak was around the black case of the heater tap

IMG_5362.JPG

 

 

So I had to remove it all and its probably an easier job to drop the K frame than reach in with everything in position. But I wasn't doing that so I suffered.  The biggest issue is the bunny ear clips. they are in the most tucked away places & also with the ears facing the wrong way!  There was just physically no way I could get at them.  The gearbox side is simple enough with the steel quick clips just needing to be removed to pop them off.  Funny as before I saw exactly how it was I thought they might be the bigger issue.

One hose with a worm drive;

IMG_5365.JPG

 

Quick couple off;

IMG_5367.JPG

 

The other pipes I simply couldn't get at so the line from under the head thermostat I cut in half, and the one directly under the intake runners I smashed with a screwdriver

Hose down in here,  soooommmmmeewhere;

IMG_5366.JPG

 

Ok so the offending part in question is a IMG_5368.JPGIMG_5369.JPG

 

Not only is there evidence where I bludgeoned it to death with a screw driver, you can see below the joins from where this was bound to fail;

 

IMG_5370.JPG

 

IMG_5371.JPG

 

And as you can see inside, looks just like any other thermostat you'd see around a workshop.  More to come on that later

 

IMG_5372.JPGIMG_5374.JPG

 

So first plan was to see if it could be patched with glue, a plan I wasn't a fan of for a few reasons. That's now not an option.

Go and see if there is a "for like" replacement that I can McGyvor in with some barbs at repco/bursons. 

Ford kit/Ralph hack and get it together so I can just drive it again.  From what was a simple oil change, a few other minor issues have now made this a headache.

 

The thing that sh*ts me most about this is that someone at Ford made the case they NEEDED this part.  They couldn't buy a motorcraft or triton generic one to use from factory.  They spent a heap of money on tooling to make this ford part, in three pieces of plastic, which was now even more prone to fail, and they have all failed on the road which has led them to be discontinued. 

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30 minutes ago, FiftyOne said:

So I grabbed a drill and an old set of injectors tonight, bored them out, installed them and it didn't fix my issue. So I went a bit deeper. 

 

Below are the tell tail signs of some sort of cooling system failure. Before even opening the system there was an unhealthy green sheen under everything rearward of my issue

IMG_5360.JPG

 

Looking around I expected it to be a clamp on one of the lines to the trans cooler I had replaced over a year ago. Unfortunately not the case. I had trouble getting an image but I could see the highest point of the leak was around the black case of the heater tap

IMG_5362.JPG

 

 

So I had to remove it all and its probably an easier job to drop the K frame than reach in with everything in position. But I wasn't doing that so I suffered.  The biggest issue is the bunny ear clips. they are in the most tucked away places & also with the ears facing the wrong way!  There was just physically no way I could get at them.  The gearbox side is simple enough with the steel quick clips just needing to be removed to pop them off.  Funny as before I saw exactly how it was I thought they might be the bigger issue.

One hose with a worm drive;

IMG_5365.JPG

 

Quick couple off;

IMG_5367.JPG

 

The other pipes I simply couldn't get at so the line from under the head thermostat I cut in half, and the one directly under the intake runners I smashed with a screwdriver

Hose down in here,  soooommmmmeewhere;

IMG_5366.JPG

 

Ok so the offending part in question is a IMG_5368.JPGIMG_5369.JPG

 

Not only is there evidence where I bludgeoned it to death with a screw driver, you can see below the joins from where this was bound to fail;

 

IMG_5370.JPG

 

IMG_5371.JPG

 

And as you can see inside, looks just like any other thermostat you'd see around a workshop.  More to come on that later

 

IMG_5372.JPGIMG_5374.JPG

 

So first plan was to see if it could be patched with glue, a plan I wasn't a fan of for a few reasons. That's now not an option.

Go and see if there is a "for like" replacement that I can McGyvor in with some barbs at repco/bursons. 

Ford kit/Ralph hack and get it together so I can just drive it again.  From what was a simple oil change, a few other minor issues have now made this a headache.

 

The thing that sh*ts me most about this is that someone at Ford made the case they NEEDED this part.  They couldn't buy a motorcraft or triton generic one to use from factory.  They spent a heap of money on tooling to make this ford part, in three pieces of plastic, which was now even more prone to fail, and they have all failed on the road which has led them to be discontinued. 

My googling at the time suggested it was a Ford US part used in the heater circuit of some Ford trucks .

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By chance I've come across a supplier in Melbourne that supposedly have a heap in stock. Going to chase that up. If it's a green light I'll buy two I think, glue one up and install it

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I think the best option is to not install one at all. As Ford stopped installing them in the FG, the part was never needed I suppose.

Like I and others have done just use extra length of hoses to use in its place.

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On 11/15/2017 at 10:01 PM, wayneoxr said:

gday ,

ba/f27h427a is the ford($251)/covs($201.inc) new part number as at 15/11/2017 perth

 

bf2xr6 zf6sp

wayneoxr

 

 BUT what I did was once the thermo manifold was removed  cut the short hoses then you have the space for multi grips for the factory clamps . that you can lock open later with the grips and slide back up the hose , so no stupid hose clamp fails later (use those hard core factory one piece whenever you can) .I matched up the hose length from the front pipe with new hose from repco oconnor ,  kept the second piece long until I had fitted up with the factory clamp to the block pipe , and after screw clamping the hose from the front pipe to the front cooler outlet . and as the rear cooler outlet is at a stupid angle ,the blocks, pipe hose kinda did a 360 around the first so it then had a natural direction into the rear cooler pipe  kinda like of the figure in an 8 , ,it kinda goes under first then over and then feels more natural .,

 

.so after 1/2 of a tank going from bibralake to and around maddington to gumtree sellers and wreckers , back to hydraulic places quoting on brass reducers ,elbows,and tbolt clamps ,, I got 1.2 m of heater hose and used the same clamps , so it cost me $9 plus fuel , cheaper that $250 . , so I bought some beer and celebrated my birthday of course . , (estimated ""savings""is always a good excuse for a new tool or a celebration) ,,hehe , while was umder there a couple of cans of degreso from pupers  and all good . goes harder yeeehaaarrr...

 

I RECKON IVE NOW GOT MORE TORQUE AND DIRECTIONAL POWER  equal to osbourne parks united 107 octane E85 , but on any 98 at $130 on a monday from my jerrys from a monday shop..........#waynefreo ... nice to read all your works fellers ,and felleretts

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