Jump to content

Failed transmission thermostat


FiftyOne

Recommended Posts

  • Moar Powar Babeh
  • Lifetime Members
  • Member For: 18y 6m 5d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth
30 minutes ago, FiftyOne said:

So I grabbed a drill and an old set of injectors tonight, bored them out, installed them and it didn't fix my issue. So I went a bit deeper. 

 

Below are the tell tail signs of some sort of cooling system failure. Before even opening the system there was an unhealthy green sheen under everything rearward of my issue

IMG_5360.JPG

 

Looking around I expected it to be a clamp on one of the lines to the trans cooler I had replaced over a year ago. Unfortunately not the case. I had trouble getting an image but I could see the highest point of the leak was around the black case of the heater tap

IMG_5362.JPG

 

 

So I had to remove it all and its probably an easier job to drop the K frame than reach in with everything in position. But I wasn't doing that so I suffered.  The biggest issue is the bunny ear clips. they are in the most tucked away places & also with the ears facing the wrong way!  There was just physically no way I could get at them.  The gearbox side is simple enough with the steel quick clips just needing to be removed to pop them off.  Funny as before I saw exactly how it was I thought they might be the bigger issue.

One hose with a worm drive;

IMG_5365.JPG

 

Quick couple off;

IMG_5367.JPG

 

The other pipes I simply couldn't get at so the line from under the head thermostat I cut in half, and the one directly under the intake runners I smashed with a screwdriver

Hose down in here,  soooommmmmeewhere;

IMG_5366.JPG

 

Ok so the offending part in question is a IMG_5368.JPGIMG_5369.JPG

 

Not only is there evidence where I bludgeoned it to death with a screw driver, you can see below the joins from where this was bound to fail;

 

IMG_5370.JPG

 

IMG_5371.JPG

 

And as you can see inside, looks just like any other thermostat you'd see around a workshop.  More to come on that later

 

IMG_5372.JPGIMG_5374.JPG

 

So first plan was to see if it could be patched with glue, a plan I wasn't a fan of for a few reasons. That's now not an option.

Go and see if there is a "for like" replacement that I can McGyvor in with some barbs at repco/bursons. 

Ford kit/Ralph hack and get it together so I can just drive it again.  From what was a simple oil change, a few other minor issues have now made this a headache.

 

The thing that sh*ts me most about this is that someone at Ford made the case they NEEDED this part.  They couldn't buy a motorcraft or triton generic one to use from factory.  They spent a heap of money on tooling to make this ford part, in three pieces of plastic, which was now even more prone to fail, and they have all failed on the road which has led them to be discontinued. 

My googling at the time suggested it was a Ford US part used in the heater circuit of some Ford trucks .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Bronze Donating Members
  • Member For: 10y 8m 27d
  • Gender: Male

By chance I've come across a supplier in Melbourne that supposedly have a heap in stock. Going to chase that up. If it's a green light I'll buy two I think, glue one up and install it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member
  • Member For: 19y 1m 2d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: western melbourne

I think the best option is to not install one at all. As Ford stopped installing them in the FG, the part was never needed I suppose.

Like I and others have done just use extra length of hoses to use in its place.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
  • New Member
  • Member For: 6y 4m 13d
On 11/15/2017 at 10:01 PM, wayneoxr said:

gday ,

ba/f27h427a is the ford($251)/covs($201.inc) new part number as at 15/11/2017 perth

 

bf2xr6 zf6sp

wayneoxr

 

 BUT what I did was once the thermo manifold was removed  cut the short hoses then you have the space for multi grips for the factory clamps . that you can lock open later with the grips and slide back up the hose , so no stupid hose clamp fails later (use those hard core factory one piece whenever you can) .I matched up the hose length from the front pipe with new hose from repco oconnor ,  kept the second piece long until I had fitted up with the factory clamp to the block pipe , and after screw clamping the hose from the front pipe to the front cooler outlet . and as the rear cooler outlet is at a stupid angle ,the blocks, pipe hose kinda did a 360 around the first so it then had a natural direction into the rear cooler pipe  kinda like of the figure in an 8 , ,it kinda goes under first then over and then feels more natural .,

 

.so after 1/2 of a tank going from bibralake to and around maddington to gumtree sellers and wreckers , back to hydraulic places quoting on brass reducers ,elbows,and tbolt clamps ,, I got 1.2 m of heater hose and used the same clamps , so it cost me $9 plus fuel , cheaper that $250 . , so I bought some beer and celebrated my birthday of course . , (estimated ""savings""is always a good excuse for a new tool or a celebration) ,,hehe , while was umder there a couple of cans of degreso from pupers  and all good . goes harder yeeehaaarrr...

 

I RECKON IVE NOW GOT MORE TORQUE AND DIRECTIONAL POWER  equal to osbourne parks united 107 octane E85 , but on any 98 at $130 on a monday from my jerrys from a monday shop..........#waynefreo ... nice to read all your works fellers ,and felleretts

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 11 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
  • Create New...
'