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more sounds, running out of patience, not willing to part with more coin


Bigg_kayz

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  • Member
  • Member For: 9y 6m 12d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, Northsider

So , its come to this...... so much time spent researching on forums, talking to people, throwing outs endless amounts of money, for a car im growing to loathe.  

 

All ive wanted to do was have my car running "decent" after my last venture which was this 

I once again still have a rattle and new symptoms after tightening all bolts and thinking Everything was sorted. I shoulda known better  grrrrr! Basically Ive noticed over the last few days my clutch has a mind of its own ,  every so often it decides it has 2 release points (one very close to the floor and isnt like a full clutch release  it allows to motion forward but not take off fully{never there before} and the standard release point {still the same}. Also noticed my car struggles to start (but the starter motor and battery etc etc are strong- its like the car is spinning the engine up but its not kicking over , it does kick over though as soon as I let go of the key from "starter motor position") and finally when the car turns over it has a funny sound on idle. Ive read up about flexplate issues and flywheel issues . since my car is a manual what car I look for and do myself?  Is it probably a fly wheel issue? My clutch was done 10,000kms ago with a Xtreme twin plate clutch ? surely everything is still good and tight since then?

Do the cars issues match what im even thinking?  im currently at a loss couldnt drive the car for 4 weeks , dropped another $1000 then spent most of my "weekend" bolt tightening. from what ive read I shouldnt be driving the car again and im probably up for another massive bill. Any help appreciated, cheers

Edited by Bigg_kayz
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  • Dropping a turd
  • Gold Donating Members
  • Member For: 16y 5m 1d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth

Has the car been over revved.  This can cause the flywheel bolts to loosen

it is not good practice to use a plastic CSC  with a heavy clutch.  It could be failing

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  • Member For: 9y 6m 12d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, Northsider

the car hasnt been over revved by me, probably only hit just over 5000rpm max when im flogging it . Im starting to think the previous owner abused it judging by all the repairs im going through, either that or he never bothered to maintain in. he was a young bloke so he probably didnt know any better. Excuse my lack of knowledge but what is the csc?> I did a quick search this morning but didnt find much and im rushing to get to work as im now having to get lifts with the mrs till this gets sorted. means I get to be nearly 2 hours early for work each day. :s

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  • Moar Powar Babeh
  • Lifetime Members
  • Member For: 18y 6m 5d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth

Concentric slave cylinder. Hydraulic release bearings inside the bellhousing that releases the clutch.  Plastic bodied units do all sorts of weird shit if they have got hot. 

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  • Bronze Donating Members
  • Member For: 10y 3m 25d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Rockhampton Qld
Also noticed my car struggles to start (but the starter motor and battery etc etc are strong- its like the car is spinning the engine up but its not kicking over , it does kick over though as soon as I let go of the key from "starter motor position") and finally when the car turns over it has a funny sound on idle. Ive read up about flexplate issues and flywheel issues . since my car is a manual what car I look for and do myself?  Is it probably a fly wheel issue? My clutch was done 10,000kms ago with a Xtreme twin plate clutch ? surely everything is still good and tight since then?

The starting issue sounds like the starter isn't ingaging properly or the teeth on the flywheel or starter are worn. My Ute is at the mechanic today for the exact same problem.

The csc (concentric slave cylinder) is what actually presses on the fingers of you clutch housing when you depress the pedal. Genuine ford and most after market csc's are made of mostly plastic and can cause issues on standard and clutches running higher plate pressures such as yours. An alloy body csc should be used in these applications and they are actually a genuine h.o.l.d.e.n part off a vz I think.

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  • Member For: 9y 6m 12d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, Northsider

so basically , get the gearbox out or at least space it , and swap out the slave cylinder for the a vz commo slave cylinder?... is this do-able with 4 jack stands and a trolley jack and all the standard sockets etc?..... any direct how to guide or should I be utilizing the the workshop manual? and will I need to pay for driveshaft rebalance even if I mark everything and line it back up?

 

or should I just pay someone?

 

im wondering why the starting and clutch issue now after simply tightening a few bolts and getting the driveshaft fix? maybe I just didnt notice the first clutch grab when the driveshaft had issues due to resistance? one of  my mates ...more of a honda specialist thinks it could possibly be a bolt fallen off the flywheel. as when I was having the driveshaft issues I heard a bolt fall off the car , few day later another, one I found was off the alternator just holding the cabling bracket. the second I still to this day never found the bolt or where it goes :S

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