Ralph Wiggum Moar Powar Babeh Lifetime Members 19,323 Member For: 18y 7m 2d Gender: Male Location: Perth Posted 18/09/15 04:43 AM Share Posted 18/09/15 04:43 AM Stock tension is effectively solid in operation as it ratchets out, Hydraulic pressure is only use to drive the tensioner piston out to the next ratchet tooth as the parts wear.IE the tensioner doesn't "float" against Hydraulic pressure like a spring loaded belt tensioner does. If it did cam timing would change on engine accel/deccel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JETURBO ...JD TUNING ADELAIDE... Gold Donating Members 23,708 Member For: 15y 10m 25d Gender: Male Location: Adelaide Posted 18/09/15 04:55 AM Share Posted 18/09/15 04:55 AM (edited) But the stock item does allow almost a bounce against the guide I think ( hence the slack to skip a tooth and common enough )If it was solid fixed the guide would wear out very quickly as the rpm will push the chain to all outer edges ( from how I see it ) Iirc it's a very similar set up to the standard idle belt tensioner and how that is "sprung" and allows for belt movement ( but correct tension )same but not same the belt gets unbalanced at around 3-4k then comes back into lineWhat brand are the new guides ? Edited 18/09/15 05:06 AM by Womend Bellbat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ralph Wiggum Moar Powar Babeh Lifetime Members 19,323 Member For: 18y 7m 2d Gender: Male Location: Perth Posted 18/09/15 05:08 AM Share Posted 18/09/15 05:08 AM The tensioner and moving guide are on the slack side of the chain. The Drive side of the chain is constantly running on the guide,the shape of the guide and the amount of oil in that area prevent excessive wear, not the tensioner movement.RE the sneaky skip a tooth edit...chain stretch and engine acceleration/decel far faster then allowed for when they developed the system,not to mention the additional torque required to drive and subsequent wear from heavier valve springs is the reason. Not tensioner movement IMHO. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JETURBO ...JD TUNING ADELAIDE... Gold Donating Members 23,708 Member For: 15y 10m 25d Gender: Male Location: Adelaide Posted 18/09/15 05:47 AM Share Posted 18/09/15 05:47 AM I honestly thought some hydraulic take up and then a limit would be there to prevent excess noise and to allow for inertia etc etc The sound from that video definitely suggests something touching that front area... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WTFWSAT New Member 17 Member For: 10y 3m 30d Posted 18/09/15 06:42 AM Share Posted 18/09/15 06:42 AM A solid tensioner ?So no hydraulic fluctuations......I bet at a specific rpm your chain/guides have a harmonic spazz and the tensioner is passing that onto the timing chain cover and areas Swop it out for a stock item ( its quick enough to do ) and see what happensYeah we've tried a stock tensioner. As well as pulling nylon bushes on the end of the tensioner to cushion any vibrations but it doesn't change the rpm range or pitch of the noise. The only thing that changes it slightly is letting tension off the chain until it's quite loose which makes the rpm range lower that the noise comes in at. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arronm Dropping a turd Gold Donating Members 9,520 Member For: 16y 5m 29d Gender: Male Location: Perth Posted 18/09/15 07:36 AM Share Posted 18/09/15 07:36 AM Have you tried 3000-3300 straight off a cold engine and then when it fully warmed up. Any change in noise or rpm?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WTFWSAT New Member 17 Member For: 10y 3m 30d Posted 18/09/15 08:21 AM Share Posted 18/09/15 08:21 AM Have you tried 3000-3300 straight off a cold engine and then when it fully warmed up. Any change in noise or rpm??Yeah we have run it to operating temprature and it makes no difference to noise or rpm. It also doesn't change under load drive up hills etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbotrana Member 2,586 Member For: 21y 25d Gender: Male Posted 18/09/15 08:38 AM Share Posted 18/09/15 08:38 AM First point of call for me are earphone thingamajig with the metal prong which will get you closer to where. Some good listening devices out there where you can position different place and switch between them.Second point of call is I start cutting observation holes in things like rocker cover, timing cover. Might make the noise easier to locate. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xr6tForMe Donating Members 206 Member For: 10y 9m 27d Gender: Male Posted 16/10/15 10:13 PM Share Posted 16/10/15 10:13 PM I like turbotrana's post. Even a long screwdriver with the tip against what you are listening to and the handle against your ear, works remarkably well for listening to specific places. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xr6tForMe Donating Members 206 Member For: 10y 9m 27d Gender: Male Posted 16/10/15 10:23 PM Share Posted 16/10/15 10:23 PM This info on resonance in chains may be of interest. https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.maplesoft.com/view.aspx%3FSF%3D5091/ford.pdf&ved=0CFAQFjANahUKEwiGwPztgcjIAhWBMZQKHfZRCAA&usg=AFQjCNEYf9tZuVVJ1ckHEhEKAy0PAAuMag 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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