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OZYWALKER

My 2010 XR50T Ute

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Been on here for a while and now that the utes making decent power I figured I'd throw up a thread.

So go back a few years and I picked up the ute. 2010 XR50T auto in Silhouette all stock with the XR50 extras.

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Stayed like that for a few months until I sold my BF RTV. Then I got stuck into modding it.

Fitted a Process West stage 3 intercooler kit (with turbo side airbox and battery relocation), Process West twin DW300 surge tank and fitting kit, Nizpro 4" exhaust, Nizpro over boost valve, Turbo smart BOV, PWR ZF heat exchanger and a set of Five O motorsports 1000cc injectors.

The wastegate was ported and a bigger flapper fitted and I got it back from CMS with 336RWKW on Eflex.

Towards the end of last year the standard turbo started to go so I took it back to CMS to have a GTX3582 fitted. Also had an MSCN turbo oil line, spool billet oil pump gears and a gibson 1000hp tail shaft fitted while it was there.

Had fuel surge issues so the intank pump was upgraded and It made around 430RWKW on Eflex on a hot arvo.

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A few months after that it started getting fuel surge again which turned out to be the DW300 pumps giving in. Moved to twin Walbro 460s an FPR2000, Process West billet fuel rail and a set of KPM 1500cc injectors. Before it went into CMS I had some -12 fittings welded to a spare rocker cover and ran them to 2 catch cans.

Made a bit over 400RWKW on 98 and around 440 on Eflex. Tune wasn't pushed as the ZF isn't too happy.

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Next up I fitted a Fenix 42mm radiator and removed the header tank. I used a modified GM filler neck to add the new fill point and installed an 82* tstat.

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Got a bit carried away and ended up moving the ECU to tidy it up a bit, not the most practical idea but I like it.

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Thanks to bomber pointing out the eBay add the other week I picked up a powerbond 20% under driven harmonic balancer kit. Also ordered some solid bushed engine mounts from "tuff mounts" and a billet tail shaft coupling from technico.

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I borrowed the falcon specific puller from a mate and installed the balancer, pulleys and mounts. Didn't have a power bar so had to pull out the starter motor and jam the flex plate to stop the crank from turning (major PITA, fark that top starter bolt).

Anyway it revs a fair bit easier and feels a fair bit more responsive.

The mounts are pretty harsh but I expected that seems like most NVH isn't transfered to the rear of the exhaust as I've used solid rubber hangers and clamped those to prevent sagging.

Being a weekender its all good but will probably get the idle raised a bit to reduce it when stopped in drive.

Still waiting on the billet coupling to arrive.

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Very nice work.

The holder thingies for the oil line - where did you get those?

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Only have the 330rwkw chart but will ask for a new one next time its on the dyno.

Saving to do the shocks or the box, ideally the shocks first as it feels pretty average lately. Hoping the box lasts as it only a weekender now.

The oil line holders are dual clamp cable ties, I scored them from another CMS customer.

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Also a note for anyone else fitting catch cans. Don't fit them up around the passenger side as I did near the battery.

The oily vapour smell gets drawn in through the ac vent directly behind it (at the base of the windscreen) and it smells really average when the car is stopped after giving it a bit.

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Had a few more parts turn up today. The Technico billet tail shaft coupling and a Goleby's direct replacement E85 rated fuel filter (has a cleanable metal filter core).

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Had enough crawling under the ute on stands so I'll get it done at CMS.

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My stock balancer was still ok but...my tuner really dislikes them when making a bit of power. Mine does feel a little bit more responsive with the powerbond unit fitted too. Good work taking it on yourself.

Quick tip for those trying to crack the bolt. I don't know which relay it was but Bionic the clever bugger used the starter to crack it with a long extension against the passenger side rail as he'd done another balancer in the morning and broke his power bar in the process - doh! I held the socket and extension in place the he jumped the starter from the fuse box a couple of times and it undid it for us - win! No starter out or lock the crank required. Sorry I didn't get this info to you beforehand as it would've saved you some punish.

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All good mate, I had thought about that but wasn't keen on tightening the bolt the same way. By pulling out the starter I was able to tighten the bolt no probs.

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Ordered a coil over and adjustable rear damper kit from Shockworks last week. It arrived today, top looking bit of kit and as a lot of others have said Brett is a top bloke to deal with.

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Going to fit them this weekend to see how well it all goes with the stock bushes as they'll be getting changed soon enough.

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Shockworks all in and fitted a set of Calvert Racing Caltracs

Shockworks are pretty easy to install, undo a few nuts and bolts swear a bit then put the nuts/bolts back.

The Caltracs come with a solid aluminium bush for the front eye in the leaf springs. Left in the freezer overnight and it pressed in fairly easily. Hardest part was getting the stock eye bush out. Hole saw + Map gas FTW.

The rest was pretty simple. Bolt it all up, get the wheels on, and set the preload when it was on the floor.

Since I've moved the header tank and ECU adjusting the front dampers is a breeze.

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Only issue is the front hangar does hang fairly low, might move it to the top hole if it causes problems.

And its RSpec now..........

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Got a bit done over the last few weeks. Fitted the technico billet tail shaft coupling a while back and its held up so far, the washers they now supply with it seem to do the job.

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The only noticable change in NVH is you can hear when the gearbox loads/unloads any driveline slack when under 10-20km.

Leveled out the ride height a bit. Raised the front coil overs and lowered the rear a bit by removing the helper leaf springs. Also cut the front caltrac bracket to give some more clearance.

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Then added some more black to the bay.

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Got my hands on a Jonny Tig cooler kit about a month ago. Its a top bit of kit, quality tube and fin cooler with a 3" hot and cold side.

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Does the job really well and weighs a lot less than the PW stage 3.

Side by side

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Won't put up a comparison between the two as ambient temp was pretty different on test days. But its not a step back by any means.

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The whole kit with piping, clamps and brackets felt a fair bit less that the PW cooler alone.

I'd say the cooler itself would be around half the weight or less.

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Its a modified aftermarket GM part, a "manifild filler neck". I had the bolt holes moved in and the center bored out to match the factory size.

Easiest and neatest way to do something similar would be to get a spare tstat housing from a wreckers, cut a hole in it and get a filler neck welded to it.

Then have the blank outlet nipple on the factory tstat housing tapped and run a line to the top of the radiator on the as its the highest point, without this you'll end up with an air gap in the top of the radiator.

You also need a plug to block the 1'' radiator outlet that runs to the header tank.

Also I found that you have to use at least a 21psi radiator cap not a 16psi like the stock setup or it will loose a lot of coolant on shutdown.

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