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 I have a few new carbon pieces in development -  Seat backs, carbon subwoofer enclosure and an OTR cold air intake. When free time permits. I will post some pics as they are fabricated....

 

Also considering some carbon door cards to suit my SQ sound system....  But need more time off work....... If only...

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always the problem... not enough time off work to spend your money (that's you, if you didn't guess)... but then when you've got enough time off work you don't have enough money to spend (that's me at the moment)

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Spot on there Keith. Give the hours that I  work and the fatigue levels. All I want to do when I  get home is sleep and chill out. Everything is progressing, I just need to stay focused and motivated.

 

Should be hitting the dyno again soon. Well when my time lines up with my tuner and with dyno availability. That should give me some mojo..

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insane write up. will be following this thread & keen to see this finished. I love your carbon work. I wish I had the time, equipment and money todo similar things in that area. 

what did you machine up on  the brembo adaptors? 

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I have a few things on the go at the moment,All at various stages of completion. 

 

I'm currently working on a making DJR 320 splitter. It's going to be modified to something similar to what you see on a Audi RS. The bottom vent section will be use to feed ducted air to the front brake rotors. I have also have competed 75% of the mould for the seat backs (Front seats) and I am starting to make infill sections for the chassis, to make the floor flat.

 

On 27/08/2019 at 3:04 PM, exploitedf6 said:

insane write up. will be following this thread & keen to see this finished. I love your carbon work. I wish I had the time, equipment and money todo similar things in that area. 

what did you machine up on  the brembo adaptors? 

Sorry for the late reply. Just finished a rotation of night shift.

 

I milled and modified the standard brackets. We had to mount the caliper 10 mm inboard and extend the caliper height by 5mm, due to the rotor configuration. Essentially, we made new boss's and welded them to the bracket. 😄

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Took too long finding a pic that would explain my comment about chassis panels... Here's what I was referring to..

 

ZEN5uiO.jpg

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Got a bit done on the seat back mould. Bloody pain in the arse that the plastics are distorted with highs and lows all over the place.  Should have a trial piece completed soon...

 

hpuMJod.jpg

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Got some time on the dyno yesterday. Had a few minor issues that held us up a bit, but managed to get most of the 98 ron tune sorted.  We pulled up tuning early last night, as we ran out of time and fuel. We managed 733 rwhp (546 kw)  @ 24 psi, on 98 ron fuel. We still have more left in it as it was still loving having timing added. It just wants to keep going, with no signs of falling off, even  at  the 7,800 rpm limiter.

 

Given what we have learnt so far, especially in relation to cam timing, I cannot begin to understand how some of the cars out there are making the power that they are. we used a FG cam map as a baseline, as we were led to believe that they are the best. However, we found that the factory cams tables, effectively choke the crap out of the engine. We've only just started playing in this area and realised an additional 70 hp.

 

We only have a few hours on the dyno today, as both the tuner and I have to leave fore work. So, we're going to put some E85 in it and see what it makes. Fingers crossed for no oil on the floor.... I do have some dyno graph pics and I shall endeavour to get some uploaded tonight.

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I'll just leave this here..

 

p0aNDqc.jpg

 

We started tuning again this morning. However, I had to leave for work at 10 am. I left the car with my tuner and hit the road. 

 

I got a call at around 11.30  informing me that he had reverted back to the BA/BF cam tables, as he was having issues when performing power runs. The power curves were very rough/erratic on the top end and going back to the BA/BF tables smoohed the curve almost instantly. We also saw more power (Recovered) by increasing cylinder pressure. With this, I assume that the camshaft separation was the cause of this issue. He went on to say that the car was breaking down when pushed over 30 psi. We put this down to the spark plug gap being a little to wide, as I had left them at 0.8mm. I had done this thinking that the CDI voltage would allow me to run a much larger gap and thereby get a better burn. Learnt my lesson there..  Anyway, my tuner also works away form home and had to leave at mid day. So we've left it as it is until he returns in a weeks time.. I'll keep you all posted on further work/tuning.

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Got home on Sunday and planned to do some work on the car. I have to sort a better way to get to the plugs as the current configuration, while looking pretty cool, is a major headache to check/change plugs.

 

I'm investigating a few options and plan on running a Supra style lead cap, so that I can access the plugs without having to remove the rocker cover garnish. I'v utilising the existing plug tube configuration that I have in conjunction with these plug tube tops.  Unfortunately the Nizpro garnish has around 10 mm of material thickness in the spark plug area that has to be removed. But I guess that having to repaint the garnish is a small price to pay for ease of servicing/access.Each individual lead will likely be run between each runner of the plenum to a bank of coils below.  I'll post some pics when they are available.

 

Supra leads...

 

5CPMdWh.jpg

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I managed to get some time with my engine guy today. As previously posted somewhere above, I had plans to change the ignition coil location and lead setup to allow ease of access for plug reads/change etc. We put the Nizpro cover on the mill and removed over 10 mm of thickness from the cover.  I then resized the previous plug lead holes to fit the new covers.

 

I am considering mounting a coil rack on the chassis rail and running the leads through the runners on the plenum. I'll check it out when I'm home next and post pictures as it progresses. 

 

FzqvXQV.jpg

 

8ylctjh.jpg

 

E1MVxgY.jpg

 

ekxDmUs.jpg

Edited by HI PSI

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@HI PSI legendary build youve been doing the last few years, you must be a very patient man, mind you I just remembered it took me 13 years to convert my twin turbo 300zx to big single To4z, and get 450rwkw and 11.2 quarter mile. Keep up the good work! Hey I think I missed it somewhere in your posts but what driveshaft did you go for? And those 1400hp axles are they an off the shelf item for these xr6t and how much $ are they? Thanks

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Apologies for the lateness of my reply. I have been busy with another project and I haven't checked the thread for some time. Normally people read the thread and don't reply. Lol

 

The building of the car was actually quite quick, but I lost interest there for a while. And I have a tendency to get it finished and then change/upgrade the car. This combined with a group of quality professionals that are booked out for months at a time, has resulted in the car laying idle for extended periods. Past mistakes with builds have taught me to do a job right and do it once. And that a poor man pays twice, due to cutting corners and quality standards. Good work takes time.. 

 

My tail shaft was built by Mal wood. It was more expensive than most, but the quality is outstanding. As for the half shafts, I ordered them directly form "The Driveline Shop" in the States. I believe that Diff Technics are an Australian supplier for the 1400 hp items. Back when I purchased the (Years ago) the were around 3k for a pair. Given the current exchange rate, I'd hate to think what they may be worth now... But, give Diff Technics a call and request a quote.. Keep in mind that BA/BF shafts are different to FG.

 

I just found these on Ebay ($3,690) Look like they've gone up in price... -  https://www.ebay.com/itm/BA-BF-Falcon-Upgraded-CV-Axle-Shafts-1400HP-Rated/383408523781?hash=item5944edca05:g:jb0AAOSw~w5eN5U~

 

Cheers

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I finally got sick of the car sitting there, doing nothing..  Primarily, this is my fault. As I really couldn't be bothered (and don't have time (new project)) to redesign and manufacture new coil bracket mounts. All in order to make plug reading and change out easier. 

 

In order to rectify the issue, I have purchased a R35 coil kit from Platinum Racing Products. It should arrive early next week.  Given that I modified the Nizpro cover for the cdi coils, I will manufacture a Carbon fiber coil cover to replace the metal unit. I'll also be completing the header tank removal and the installation of the Hammond thermostat housing. This should neaten the bay even more.

 

I'll post some pics when I can..

 

17Ms2hk.jpg

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Dummied up, ready for wiring... It was supposed to happen today, but my wiring guy/tuner had issues with a car he was dynoing.. Next week it is...

 

 

 

Bs7R81l.jpg

 

I found that the mating the spring in the boot and the coil was questionable, due to the spring seating lower in the silicon.  The coil is long enough to reach the spring, but you can't ensure that it is correctly seated. I stretched the spring with some pointy nosed pliers until it was flush with top of the silicon, so that I could seat it into the coil before it engages the silicon.

 

Also be aware that the silicon will separate from the coil when removing and the pill will fall into the spark plug valley under the coil bracket...  The silicon is a snug fit into the bracket and takes some effort to remove..

 

2JwdIeK.jpg

Edited by HI PSI

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Coils are wired and the car starts and runs a lot better. I fixed the exhaust leak that we had at the turbo/dump pipe v band. I decided to change the exhaust housing to a 1.15 while I was at it.

 

I also fitted the new billet thermostat housing and removed the header tank. It really opened up a lot of space...  Only a fuel line leak to fix and she'll be ready to hit the dyno again... 

Edited by HI PSI

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Loving the work as always mate, looking great.

All that steel braid though, would have been so many cuts and pricks lol. Its bastard stuff to work with. Pushlock hose 4TW haha

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Thanks guys. Seldom get comments on my thread. Can't work out why...

 

I gets  a bit lonely talking to yourself...

 

Anyway....... Update.

 

I haven't been happy with the current remote steering reservoir for some time. I also need to fix some issues, so I decided to kill two birds with one stone. Literally.. The other is for the header delete.. It will be mounted on the l/h chassis, in front of the catch can.

 

sC3ZU8o.jpg

 

Uf0ZqBf.jpg

Edited by HI PSI

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