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Brake Shudder - On The Hunt For The Problem. Over Heated Brake Fluid?


masda74

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  • Member For: 15y 8m 12d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, Western Australia

Okay, I am going to have to speak to the guys about this. they did do the brake fluid flush. I'll go see them this arvo.

I do not use a torque wrench to tighten my wheel nuts. I do have a torque wrench, but have no idea what to set it to.

PhillMeUp, I did clean the wheel hub and the rotor before installation. I will give them a clean again on the weekend just to make sure.

I really do suspect that it is the control blade bushes that are stuff. there are small bits falling off them. looks like they are shagged.

I will find out when I take the car to Malaga suspension.

That brake fluid definitely has NOT been flushed - it's years old. If that car was in a crash and it was proven that your brakes were a contributing factor then you could end up facing a Reckless Driving charge (extreme, but possible).

Torque wrench: I bought an expensive digital one (Snap-On TECH2FR250) from the US a few years ago solely for the task of replacing the front wheel bearing hub (which needs to be tightened to 300Nm). However, I use it all the time for tightening up wheel nuts. This ensures the right torque, but also consistency across all of the wheel nuts.

I tighten mine to 125Nm, which is specified in the Ford service manual. However, 135Nm has been specified elsewhere. Take your pick - not a huge difference between them.

On the front bearing hubs, to get in amongst the wheel studs I use a Josco 100mm Wheel Wire Brush (item number 6318427 at Bunnings) and a cup-shaped wire brush for other areas.

http://www.bunnings.com.au/josco-100mm-wheel-wire-brush_p6318427

Cleaning the inside of a disc rotor:

BF_Falcon_Rear_Axle_Bearings_32_23_3_201

Torque wrench and wheel nuts:

11_Torque_Wrench_12_8_2012.jpg

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  • Manual mode ________________________ All day, erryday
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  • Member For: 16y 4m 4d
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  • Location: Probably above atmospheric pressure

Bin those farkers, complete junk

AFM Q1R's all the way imho

Do you mean QFM A1RM? I liked their HPX pads (lower performance street pads kinder to rotors).

(Queensland Friction Materials)

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  • Member For: 20y 11m 27d
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I tend to stick with Bendix Ultimates. Why?. Cause they wear the discs out and by wearing the disc they keep it true. I consider the disc a consumable so I get two sets of pads to one set of discs and I dont bother machining between pad changes.

Cast iron by nature tends to shift around and with a cast iron hat even more. I tried Ferodo DS last time and took them out after 10000km cause they started shuddering. Chucked in the Bendix and after about 10000km trued the disc up.

But they are dirty, just a price you got to pay. Plus they stop well for the street.

I did suspect the front bearing hubs when I first bought my FG and the crap disc and pads started shuttering but I put a dial gauge on the hubs and surprisingly found that they were very true and not a problem. Put the dial gauge on the disc and out by alot. Even new discs are not true but the ultimates will true them up.

Edited by turbotrana
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  • ...JD TUNING ADELAIDE...
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how do u think I know there junk ?

the panda got a set after the same pelican recommended them to us also

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  • Member For: 12y 3m 27d
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  • Location: WA, Perth

Lets not jump to conclusions just yet Peter.

When I get a chance, I will put the oem pads back in and see what happens.

They do squeal quite a bit. I have noticed that there is more shudder at higher speeds.

At lower speeds there is less to almost none. Feel it more from 80km/h onwards.

Edited by masda74
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Try getting the rotors machined.

I have no idea what that cloudy stuff is on the reservoir, I have never seen it like that before only dark and dirty.

There is no need to use a torque wrench for wheel nuts, I have never had an issue using a regular wheel spanner and tightening gradually in 3 passes

Edited by Z2TT
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  • Member For: 15y 8m 12d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, Western Australia

Try getting the rotors machined.

I have no idea what that cloudy stuff is on the reservoir, I have never seen it like that before only dark and dirty.

There is no need to use a torque wrench for wheel nuts, I have never had an issue using a regular wheel spanner and tightening gradually in 3 passes

The cloudy stuff is water. That brake fluid has been there for quite some time (years).

Was it a workshop that supposedly flushed it?

Torque wrench - each to their own. I'm regularly removing Falcon wheels and putting them back on, so using the torque wrench means that the wheel nuts are done up tight enough to stay on, but not so tight that will cause problems later on (eg snapping wheel stud when removing wheel nut).

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