Jump to content

08 Fg Xr6T Ute


camo86T

Recommended Posts

  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 10y 10m 24d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: NOR Perth

Hey bud....forgot to ask you this the other day.

What intercooler piping are you running at the moment????? I notice in the beginning you had the plazmaman piping (stage 2 I assume?) and then you said you bought the stepped PW stage 1?

So hot side piping in the pic above (second post, second pic) looks like the Plaz stage 2...but the cold side looks like PW stage1/2 piping????

This pic below shows the stage 3 cooler (so slightly fatter piping) and looks like it just clears the plaz turbo side kit.... but yeah...interested to know what you have at the moment (I.e. do you have the plaz hot side piping and the PW cold side piping and the PW cooler inlet matches the Plaz hot side piping???)

post-66173-0-68633000-1416274881_thumb.j

Cheers!!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Silver Donating Members
  • Member For: 10y 2m 7d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: SW Sydney

Now you've confused me lol

Cooler pipework I got off ebay about 3 years ago, guy who was selling plaz stuff (called coolerworks I think?) but I don't know what 'stage' it is, would've said stage 1?

But a quick look at plaz website says to me that plaz stage 1 and 2 hot side are the same, only cold side is larger diameter?

So I'd say its plaz stage 1 piping.

PW stage 1 & 2 piping are the same from memory, which would match plaz stage 1 full kit or plaz stage 2 hot side only

I think. :wild:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 10y 10m 24d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: NOR Perth

Sorry bud! hahaha....

So what you did was buy coolerworx kit years ago.....and then when you bought the new PW stepped cooler...you only bought the core only yeah?

It just sucks a fat one cause the PW stage 1/2 will just clear...apparently literally 5mm or something (but I prefer the Plaz/coolerworx clearance as it looks better and not all cramped up) if that makes sense :)

It sucks cause IDK if coolerworx has gone out of business...as I cannot find them on ebay anymore and even google searching doesnt come up with anything :( ... I know their kits were 450ish back in the day and that would be a perfect option for me now.

But yeah the Plaz stage 1 has the hot side piping that doesn't clear the plaz turbo side, therefore you need to buy stage 2 or 3 (which in black is like $830 or something obscene). Oh well....I will figure something out I guess as its my issue and dont want it cluttering up your thread :)

so yeah...cheers for the help! also nice figure on the new assembled almost GTX3582 and good luck with your eflex tune later :P

P.S. did you notice the increased lag from going from the GT3576 to the GTX3582? I read a lot of people miss the instant boost of the baby turbo - once they go for the GT3582 or the GTX...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 10y 10m 24d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: NOR Perth

Looks like it! Plaz stage 1 is purely OEM replacement...but coolerworx has the hot side piping that will clear turbo side kit.

I believe Bomber was saying that coolerworx used to make plazmaman piping or something like that?....so they are similar.

What I am thinking will work is if I can buy the Plaz stage 2 hot side piping...and then buy the stage 1 cold side piping and that would be similar to the coolerworx setup I rekon. Or better yet Plaz stage 2 hot side and PW stage 1/2 cold side (as that has the 2.75" cold side pipe near the TB) - but dunno how keen Kev will be to sell half a piping kit lol

I will see how the prices go....but if its too close to the stage 2 piping price...I may as well just go that (and not worry about buying the throttle body elbow). meh....#stingyblokeproblems

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 8 months later...
  • Silver Donating Members
  • Member For: 10y 2m 7d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: SW Sydney

Bit of an update on this thing, been too lazy to lately

Short version:

Got it re-tuned in May, ended up with a bit over 380 on 98 and 438 on e85

post-77265-0-32852300-1438197005_thumb.jpost-77265-0-28984500-1438197065_thumb.j

Anybody with eyes can see that there's a few lumps and bumps on the graph, and I'm aware of that but thanks anyway...actually feels pretty smooth :P

I know the clutch is now copping a hiding, can slip make a difference to the charts? Not real hard to get it to slip in 4th on either tune

Also got built tailshaft installed, had some dramas with vibration etc at higher road speeds as well as under load

It's in someone else's thread somewhere on here, but tried adding 5mm to the 15mm centre bearing spacers they come with - apparently this has worked before - but no good.

It was sent back to Gibsons, rebalanced and came back with...40mm long spacers. Hmm!

Anyway, was re-fitted yesterday by the boys at CMS and yeah heaps better.

You're still conscious of what's happening back there, little bit of noise under load but huge improvement, thanks guys.

I did find out that autos keep their rubber drive coupler when fitting a built tailshaft, while manuals get it taken out, which is possibly why others with autos and a built tailshaft say they can't feel much if any difference.

Way more confidence knowing that there's something solid back there now, most driveline slop gone and hard 3-4 shifts no longer feel like something is gonna sh*t itself...apart from the clutch lol

Old and new

post-77265-0-57044400-1438198023_thumb.j

This morning started work around 4am, took the private road route...running e85 right now so had a quick 3-4 hit...fair amount of clutch slip when hitting 4th but could be worse

The street lights were video-shopped in for effect

https://vimeo.com/134872929?utm_source=email&utm_medium=clip-transcode_complete-finished-20120100&utm_campaign=7701&email_id=Y2xpcF90cmFuc2NvZGVkfDFlZTU2ZjViMGI0ZjdhZGRmNzk1MGUyZjNlOGNlNThhNTkzfDQyNDQ5ODU4fDE0MzgxOTkyODF8NzcwMQ%3D%3D

Next step is to get the clutch upgraded sometime, the Mantic twin plate is hanging in there but only just.

Was looking at the xtreme twin plate organic, for the price it's hard to go past. Scott from Western Clutch in St Marys was recommended by NPC as their installer around this way and heard many other good things about him - he built and installed the clutch in Brett Luland's crazy GT, so in good hands there.

He has priced me to supply and test the xtreme twin plate kit and ARP bolts, balance flywheel and do the install for $2250 - I can't go past that

But now bjacobs has sort of got me thinking about the ceramic twin plate xtreme option which will definitely take more abuse...decisions..

Can a mod please move this thread to the 400 section?

Edited by camo86T
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member
  • Member For: 10y 4m 30d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Brisbane

If your clutch was slipping when it was tuned then yes, it can affect the load points, what it made on the day is what it made so its not as if the tune is wrong or anything. But probably a good idea to get it touched up when you get a new clutch as it will most likely affect the way it loads up.

If your clutch was 100% at the time of tune, then you farked it. Different story.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
  • Create New...
'