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Fg Long Into Bf


 MY ROD GOT OUT

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  • Member For: 11y 1m 25d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Canberra, Australia

Lowlife pricks. At least you got your money back....unbelievable. I was thinking that doing what you MEANT to do was definitely the best option money wise. However, what they did is something at the back of my mind, that I wouldn't end up with what I bought.


Still, there must be a reputable mob out there that have what you want.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BF-MKII-FORD-FALCON-XR6-TURBO-COMPLETE-ENGINE-CONVERSION-KIT-GENUINE-RECYCLED-/271215077375?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f25ada7ff

Edited by Quasi XR6T
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  • Menace
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 12y 11m 7d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Sydney

I have found these guys to be good

http://www.macarthurautoparts.com.au/

Fairly well organised bunch, everything has a place and 9/10 they usually have just the part you need.. 1/2 the price of some of the gear at the other joint. that's what I have found anyway, each to there own

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  • 1 month later...
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  • Member For: 13y 6m 24d

ok so finally got engine into car, thought I'd throw up the pics and brief run down on whats needed to fit an FG long into a BA/BF.

please note, this is a big job for someone with little experience/tools. this is just a guide of how I went about the change of engines, others may have different opinions but this work for me.

parts needed: ba/bf sump

ba/bf oil pickup

sump gasket

inlet/exhaust manifold gaskets

spigot bearing (if manual)

new fluids

1) pull old engine out.....remembering to label all wiring etc. funny enough this link actually helped.... http://au.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20110701180001AArtHPt

2) place turbo, inlet manifold etc etc etc onto FG engine ( straight bolt up no mods needed), I did remove the old FG water lines etc and used mine.

post-42098-0-72867000-1374746944_thumb.j, there is also an extra coolant line coming out of the blocks back right passenger side, I used a spare sensor I had from the old engine and screwed it in as is not needed for the ba/bf.

3) now its time to turn engine over (carefully) to access the sump, be very cautious to check which sump you get as they changed the sump style at the end of 2005.mine was the one with the full gasket where as after 2005 they went with half moon gaskets.

post-42098-0-05446500-1374747225_thumb.jpost-42098-0-20005500-1374747299_thumb.j

undo all sump bolts and remove old sump.

4) time to replace oil pickup with a bf version, one of the main cap bolts need to be moved up and the one with the thread moved down to enable pickup to be bolted on, retighten to 90lb with a torque wrench.post-42098-0-34249500-1374747844_thumb.j make sure to use the oring from the FG pickup end that attaches the oil pump.

5) since the FG's sump is reverse to the BA/BF the dipstick needs to be moved to the front of the block. there is a cap filling the hole where the ba/bf dispstick goes. grab something that fits into the hole and punch out the cap. then find a bolt to fit the old hole of the disptick and thread it in (tap and die set needed).

post-42098-0-88233000-1374748127_thumb.jpost-42098-0-11127100-1374748155_thumb.j you will also have to make a small adjustment (ie cut a peice out) of the windage tray to suit new dipstick path.

6) next fit the new sump to the block, we noticed that the windage tray did touch but with a little bit of convincing ;) it fitted nicely, a good point would be to check where your pickup sits in the sump as you dont want it touching the sump or too high above either.

post-42098-0-25259900-1374748344_thumb.j

7) the engine mounts are different on the FG to BA/BF so a small modification to the block is needed to fit the drivers side mount. we simply trimmed the lug that was sticking too far out which stopped the BF mount sitting flat.

post-42098-0-69657800-1374748658_thumb.j

8 ) engine is now ready to go back in, be aware of what engine you have purchased, mine was an auto so I needed to purchase a new spigott bearing.

All done :)post-42098-0-55140500-1374748849_thumb.j

9) engine will run with the same tune previously installed but will definitely need a touch up, mine is running rich as and extremely lumpy at idle (no vac leaks, so will assume its the tune untill next week when I visit my tuner.

hope this helps anyone attempting this job, remember its not a straight swap and will require someone with a decent mechanical mind to complete. please dont take this "how to" as gospel and I take no responsibility if you stuff something up.

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  • Manual mode ________________________ All day, erryday
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 16y 4m 4d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Probably above atmospheric pressure

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Mainly because I may need it one day!

Edited by -SteveR-
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