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Should I Buy This Xr6T (Merged Topic)


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Hey all- Some things that you need to look out for-

1- Discs- if original will more than likely be warped- upgrade to DBA slotted and new pads-

2- Diff bushes- if clunking in rear end then probably need done

3- just point on discs once done may need on car machining as the hubs are usually a bit hows it going.

4- Coils common problem- need new coil packs maybe.

5- Plugs- they chew through plugs get new ones

Hope the points help you- Also one issue I had was boost actuator needed done also

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What do you mean  

Car looks much nicer and its newer too, a proper BF2. It’s obviously had the car yard spruce up, but having a look at that bay shows it hasn’t been molested, all inlet plumbing hose clamps match

If you are looking at a auto make sure you know about the + & -

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Hi,

I'm a ford mechanic and a recently bought a 04 mk2 for 11,900 with the usual leather, dual zone climate and premium sound. A few things I have noticed are the front pads tend to rattle over bumps but I'm sure revised pad slides are out. You will more than likely have a power steering leak either from the high pressure hose or front pump seal - nothing to drastic. Brake shudder is common. Diff bush's in the BA are much tougher then BF but still do wear out but not as quick. Also noticed with auto's the fuel return line rub's through on the auto selector cable... surprised no recall has been issued :|. Bonnet cable's tend to snap but a revised cable is out and sometimes break the fusebox.

Sorry about the long post just a few things to look out for nothing that is going to cost an arm or a leg

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I have an 04 ba xr6t mk 2 auto had 130 000kms on it and here is the list of what needed doing in the period of 3 mnths after I bought it,

*new coils and plugs

*new discs all round

* new upper and lower rear control arms

* new control blade bushes

* had an aftermarket gasket on the manifold to turbo flange which blew out and caused the studs to rattle loose, check these periodically one of mine actually rattled al the way out! and lost it

* vaccuum boost regulator needed servicing just a squirt of wd40 down its guts.

* new centre dif cradle bush- alot easier to get a mechanic witha hoist to do this dont be a numpty like me and do it with vehicle stands and a a couple of trolley jacks was an absolute PITA.

* and new front wheel bearing and hubs

* also I know u were looking at a manual but for anyone who has an auto if some one has serviced your box in the past its all to easy for then to have cracke the arse out of the ally fitting which go into the heat exchanger, I investigated a slight ATF weep on the bottom hose of my heat exchanger didnt notice the crack and did it back up again and busted the arse out of the fitting lucky we have a good wrecker that's open saturdays which had a fresh BA come in, alway something to keep in mind

sorry for the lenght of post

Edited by HILLBILLY JEDI
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Great info!

I hopefully get mine on sat, it seems like its had a lot of those areas attended to which eases my mind a bit!

Had coil packs, tps, brakes & heavy duty clutch already done.

I know it's a t5z, but I'm not going chasing power so it should be sufficient.... Touch wood...

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I had a bf xr8 until I took a ba f6 for a drive. A week later I owned the f6. The ONLY thing I miss about the xr8 is the sunroof. but yeah I agree with everyone saying to sell and buy a different one. It sounds like your doing the other person to much of a favour..

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Hey people I'm looking into buying a manual bf mk2 xr6 turbo and I'm trying to find out how many k's are to much? and what's a good amount?

I love to get as low as possible but is 80,000k too many any help?

I will be doing work on the car in the range of 350 to 400rwkw.

Cheers

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Some guys are running upwards of 170,000kms on their T's so they can go for a while with the right maintenance. Bit like yourself and henz though, wouldn't want to get too close to 100,000kms. 80,000 is fine, especially if you go to 400rwkw you'll be replacing a lot of things anyway

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How the Kms are clocked up are Important too. I've clocked up lots of Kms on all cars I've had and the cars have been well looked after and tbh had a pretty easy life. I'd rather 100k Kms of highway compared to 80k Kms of city driving. If the k s are clocked up quickly you could hope it has been from long cruisy drives rather than zipping around the city. Hopefully there's other ways to tell if they have racked up the Kms on the hwy too, eg live outta town or whatever.

Just my 2.4198c inc gst and carbon tax :P

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  • 5 weeks later...

^ might start complaining when your up for new engine, turbo, bushes, brakes, fuel pump, power steering pump... lol

lol all bushs, brakes replaced bt me a month ago, power steering pump replaced by me mate who owned it before me, and turbo was replaced by ford about 3-4 years ago ( roughly 70 000 k;s ago) cost the previous owner 8k.

fuel pump seems to be going good lol

engin ......well lets not talk about that hahaha. has good compression etc soooo I hope its ok for now lol

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Try for under 100 but think about what might be knackered and what you will be replacing for the upgrade anyway. Eg _ Clutch, fuel pump, injectors,intercooler,exhaust,turbo housing (needs porting for your power) and if you are going to 400 - the tail shaft if you plant to beat up on it...... all gotta go. Suspension should be okay but allow 800 for a drive -in drive out diff bush replacement.

100k's is not too bad provided the owner(s) have been good with maintenance and that for me means receipts from a workshop etc. The only other thing I would say as a clue is tyres and mags. If they are fussy, the mags should look good and no Sh*t-Ar*e brands of tyres.

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  • 3 weeks later...

5 speed manual is poo, and weak as piss. Try and get a 6 speed manual. Or 4 speed auto, but the auto's dont like more than 300 at the treads without modding. 6 speed auto is the bomb, but dont think they came out in BA

Shuddering brakes are a issue with all falcons, from AU onwards. Be prepared for that one.

Never heard of the blueline models.

If you do buy a BA, also be prepared to clean the turbo inline filter, or replace it with a Earls jobbie.

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300 kilowatts at the treads. Power output.

Yours will make roughly 190 - 200 at the tyres, power wise, stock. If you mod it, first batch of mods usually see 260 at the tyres.

Stock they make 240kw at the flywheel, but nobody cares about flywheel power. Its all about rear wheel power, or exactly how much power it is making to the road.

Then its just a case of how much money you want to spend, versus how much power you want......

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi there,

At what price do you guys think I could get a used 2011 Xr6t at?

Needs to be preferbly under 20 000 kms and in good condition.

Anyone in the know or just purchased a 2011 model and could give me some pricing figures?

From what I can see, most are listed from $35000. Im hoping for a bargain at about $27 000 with some good negotiation skills. Is this too far of a stretch?? Should I hold off abit longer and wait a few months into next year to purchase?

Cheers

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