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What Did You Do To Your Car Today?


Henz

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  • Puff
  • Gold Donating Members
  • Member For: 9y 2m 26d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: South Australia

Pull the bolt out again, clean it and the hole with brake clean or shellite, fill underneath the head of the bolt with silicone, Loctite the end of the bolt and put the bolt back in.

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  • Member
  • Member For: 5y 4m 20d
  • Location: New zealand

@Puffwagondo you mean clear silicone? And Probably best to use blue loctite you reckon? Cos red will cement those little bolts in. I think the problem is its obviously leaking from the sump into the hole and iv gotta get the hole as oil free as I can and quickly try to seal it up. Do you think fire some brake clean up the hole then blow some air up there and dry it out with a rag and then try to seal it up?

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  • Puff
  • Gold Donating Members
  • Member For: 9y 2m 26d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: South Australia

I should have cleared this up first... is it the little vertical bolts or the horizontal main cap bolts? At any rate the instructions are mostly the same. If it's the vertical bolts, clean the hole and bolt. Slap a good bit of silicone under the head of the bolt and also along the thread. That should sort it out.

 

I don't think the type of silicone will matter, but if you're interested in the best stuff for oil then search for that. Ultra Black is one that comes up. I used Ultra Grey cos it's the one I had on hand.

 

You can use red loctite cos you're not completely coating the bolt, just a fat drop is enough. They'll come back out if you want them too anyway.

 

So yerp just spray the cleaning stuff on and hit it with the air. You can spray the cleaning stuff and use the air at the same time to get a hectic clean happening. That's all you need to do to clean it. Make sure you use something that won't leave a residue, like the ones I suggested.

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  • Member For: 3y 8m 2d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth

I  did a random check on the door handles today , when I locked the car. They were all secure , then I pressed the fuel cap , and it opened buy about an inch. I thought these locked flush with the car........................?:panda: or are they all like this? ( I have a FG 2014 sedan )

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  • Member For: 5y 4m 20d
  • Location: New zealand

Today I found the bottom bolt hole in the sump for the turbo oil drain flange was stripped. Oh crap I thought, imagining an engine out job to get sump off to fix it, I thought the bolt holes might have gone right through into inside of sump, which luckily they don't, and thought alloy swarf from retapping the thread may have ended up in sump. Anyway I read on here someone had same problem and had found that the thread in the holes goes a bit deeper than the bolt length. This saved the day for me. Thanks whoever it was. So I ran a tap of same thread with grease on it into hole, cleaned it out, measured depth of thread in hole with a longer bolt and used another bolt and cut it to right length. Turns out the new bolt I used with a washer I used under the bolt head has same effective shank length as stock bolt but threaded right to end. The stock bolt has a good 5 mm of blank lead in. So I got that stripped thread fixed and ended up using the longer threaded bolts for both bolts on that flange, cleaned up gasket, new threebond on both sides of gasket and bolted it back up, it's really nice and solid now, not turny turny stripped. Thanks for that tip

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  • Member For: 14y 6m 9d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: West Perth.

So I recently had the car serviced and had the plugs and coils replaced - I last did these at I last did these at 120,000K's and it just hit 210,000K's - and whilst the rough idle is considerably better, I still have a slight rough idle.  I've been slowly doing various things and each time the idle gets better.

 

So I looked at the throttle body and noticed the MAP sensor underneath is clogged with black gunk.  I've ordered a replacement for that sensor and the one on the elbow as the car's 11 years old  in November and I expect these have never been changed.

 

One thing I noticed with the sensor under the TB is that it has a clip that moves up and down and it looks like the sides need to be squeezed in possibly to pull it off the plug.

 

Before I get all ham-fisted when changing it this weekend, is it best to pull the plug out whilst the sensor is bolted in still and do I need to do anything specific to remove the sensor from the plug?

 

Thanks.

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  • Member For: 3y 11m 6d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Wellington New Zealand

today I failed in my first attempt to fit a sniper big pod swirl pot. pulled old pump and cradle out no problem so far. ok pulled the walbro pump out of cradle yep so far so good looked at sniper cradle ok whats wrong here ? pipes on top to fit fuel lines face side ways instead of to the front of the car. have beer think about it ok dumbass you can simply turn it. now im stuck new unit has them plastic flexable fuel hoses how the I heck do you fit them ? way to tight to push on.  help anyone ?   

Edited by canedkydd
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  • Gold Donating Members
  • Member For: 9y 2d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Canberra ACT

They need a touch of heat mate - heat gun, saucepan of hot water, even a hairdryer. Just soften up the end a bit and they push on.

Just use a bit at first because if you over do it the end will crinkle up or collapse when you try to put it on.

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