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What To Expect When Buying An Xr6 Turbo Ba


Momentum80

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  • Member For: 20y 7m 15d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Townsville

My 03 xr6t has done 87,000km's now and I am getting ready to sell it. I just had to replace the diff bush, the 2 rear bump stop were non existant so also replaced and new front control arm bushes all that cost $900. The steering rack I replaced at around the 80,000km mark due to the clicking/clunking, reco- $375 fitted. Springs and shocks may need replacement due to bad sagging if they haven't already and if the car is modified then there may be some play in the driveline clunking wise? Otherwise the rest is just general servicing I believe...

It really has been good a good car as they were the biggest outlay for me since I have owned the car since 04 with 20,000km on it! I do most of my servicing when possible.

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  • Member For: 13y 5m 28d
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Forget about km to Ltrs as that's hwy, once you in traffic watch it jump. Plus at 190000ks keep some cash on the side if anything arises, check all the usual things like bearing play on the turbo. Make sure when going to a test drive engine is cold, some guys warm them up before you get there so gets rid of any noises. Just tell them before you go not to drive it, best time first thing in morning.

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  • Resident idiot.
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  • Member For: 13y 6m 30d
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  • Location: Melbourne

^^ I never drove my car cold, no way I'd let someone else.

190k isn't much for a car that old. Drive a few different ones so you get a feel for what's normal,

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  • Resident idiot.
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  • Member For: 13y 6m 30d
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That makes sense, was just thinking along the lines that not all people are trying to hide something when they warm up a car.

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  • Skid Machine
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  • Member For: 12y 10m 26d
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The main things to look out for are suspension and worn bushes which aren't too expensive to fix but if the car is modified it's a different story.

I bought my car standard with 260,000 km on the clock and didn't really have any issues with it but now that it's modified and just about to click over 280,000 I've replaced half the car.

Average fuel consumption is 350-400km out of a tank around town and 500km+ if all highway.

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  • Member For: 13y 14d
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If it hasn't got an external turbo oil supply filter put 2.5k aside ready to fix It.

With that many kms it would be close to happening.

Diff bush is one thing to look at. ( driveline clunks) more noticable in reverse.

Broken oil filler cap is another to keep an eye on. (they perish from heat and break into the motor)

If its lowered check the inner rear cvs for play/ clunks.

Is iT manual or auto? If its a 5sp manual you can't really push it past 290odd rwkw without it breaking. Also if it's the stock clutch it would certainly need replacing soon.

If auto you should invest in a proper transcooler if your a aggressive driver.

That's most of the expensive faults covered.

One other thing id check is for coolent milkshake. Bad head gasket and check all the heater hoses and rad hoses for weeping and corrosion etc...

Best of luck.

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  • Member For: 12y 11m 25d
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  • Location: Victoria

Look for any holes drilled out in the radiator support around the battery and intake side. May be a sign of modified cold air intakes that have been removed from the car.

If you are planning on modding the car it may work out cheaper to go for a BA mk II or later model for the 6 speed manual or a BF if you really want an auto.

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  • Thooperrrrrrr
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  • Member For: 12y 9m 17d
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  • Location: NOR, Western Australia

How much is the car you're looking at and where are you located?

The guys here can almost definitely find you a good/better car in your area than a 190,000km car.

That being said, not all with those km's can be bad, like mentioned above it really comes down to the servicing and maintenance on the car just like with any vehicle.

Check the usual things, engine bay around the panels/screws for resprays (crash repairs), check the VIN with Ford to confirm the model, drive and listen for noises but more importantly drive multiple so you can hear any differences between cars.

Highly recommend someone go with you who has some knowledge about these cars/similar cars who would be able to pick a fault straight away.

If looking to mod the car, I'd recommend a late BF/BF2 regardless of auto/manual for the stronger base for modding. Avoid 4spd auto/5spd manual if possible and within budget. If not looking to mod, go for the best value/best looked after car.

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  • Skid Machine
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Or buy mine once I clean up the last few bits and pieces :P.

It has high km's but almost everything that wears out has been replaced with new items.

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