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Flex Plate Issues


FIERCE

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  • Member
  • Member For: 13y 2m 10d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Auckland, New Zealand

Pretty much as soon as you hit rev limiter they fall off, go an aftermarket option and keep it off the rev limiter and you should be fine

That's exactly what happened to me at the drags the other day. Went into second in perf mode and didn't notice so it didn't change and it shot right past the limiter. Next run I went to do I heard a knocking noise so drove home carefully. Ripped the motor out about a week later when it made the hell rattling noise and there were only two centre bolts left holding the flex plate on, and they were next to each other.

I'm knocking the revs down about 500rpm in the limiter and WOT gear shift if I can and upping the boost with the new spool rods. I will also be loctiting the bolts in and hopefully won't have any more issues. That should also help the oil pump. I will look at porting the bypass and hard anodising the back plate in it while it's apart.

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  • Member For: 20y 11m 27d
  • Gender: Male

Locktite wont do anything. I tried locktite with Expensive Daewoo 202s, did nothing, then added 4 more bolts to the crank/flexplate which fixed that problem.

This is what I did with my ED turbo. Basically cut up a flexplate centre section and riveted this to another flexplate. Then added these tabs so the bolts cant get lose.

post-822-0-23456200-1335181462_thumb.jpg

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  • Flat out like a lizard drinkin !
  • Member
  • Member For: 14y 2m 10d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Central Coast

Im removing the box today ill see how bad she has come loose this time. I have a special compound for locking cylinder liners in engines. im going to try that this time around for added assurance.

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  • Flat out like a lizard drinkin !
  • Member
  • Member For: 14y 2m 10d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Central Coast

your drive plate will need to be replaced!

Yes I always order new Flex plates and bolts when the problem re occurs

As with the new Flex plate now being produced by ford have been upgraded to a solid plate instead of a vented plate. So this has been a common problem even with standard fords as I sourced form a large ford dealership. The Bolts have been upgraded and Flexplates have been strengthened.

My fault was first noticed after I did a hard 2nd shift in manual mode. I could actually feel a slight thud at high rpm. I then thought to inspect around the vehicle just incase. When I saw nothing, oil pressure was still good, boost good, transmition still acting normal I then hit the road again.

being the picky type I was listning all the way home.(40 min drive) I heard nothing and all was good.

The next day I took it to the shops and noticed a wurring noise, like a woomerah(aboriginal thing they spin around), but only slight and would only show up at 3000rpm or higher. I then took it home and stopped in the gaurage. placed it in park and heard a knocking noise in my bell housing. Best way to listen to it is remove the plastic inspection cover at the front side of the bell housing. once that is removed you can hear it loud and clear (like someone is beating a wooden cooking spoon on a cooking pot)

ill post up pictures of the new and old OEM flex plates that ford has changed.

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  • Member For: 17y 7m 7d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne, VIC
At idle you hear a rattling noise... Noise goes away once RPM is up.

sh*t I've heard this occasionally... Is it something I can see? Or take it to someone, hoist needed?

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  • Member For: 12y 11m 23d
  • Gender: Male

Pull the black plastic inspection cover out and see if you can move the flexplate at all?

Its at the rear of the sump facing the gearbox. If you dont have a hoist a bit of grovelling will be involved.

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