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Thought Id Show You The Damage A Simple Fitting Does.


MidnightXR6

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  • Member For: 14y 2m 25d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Aberdeen, Scotland

So I decided to change my turbo nut oil filter.

The original was very tight to remove but once I installed the new one I noticed a hairline crack which seeps oil when the engine is running.

Going to jbweld it for now and see about shipping another block over or just a full engine if I can get one close to the 77k my ute has done.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v45/nissanmansco/12112011326.jpg

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  • Member For: 14y 2m 25d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Aberdeen, Scotland

The original was so I did like for like. The original was very tight in getting off so maybe damage was caused here but hey ho.

Ill patch it and see how it goes from there.

Its hard to find a low mileage long engine or block close to the 77k my ute has :(

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  • Member For: 21y 20d
  • Gender: Male

Ouch, the two pack tank sealer that you knead together works real well but I dont think it will work there. You are better off with something like loctite pipe sealer or some loctite which will get it from the inside of the thread. You just have to make sure you clean as much oil off the threads as you can. I would even go so far as to get a steel adaptor with a really long thread that can go into the uncracked part of the thread so it can remain there permanently so you never have to remove it again. Then fit the oil fitting on top of this.

When using loctite pipe sealer you cant just put it on the male thread and screw the fitting on. You gotta get a small screwdriver and put the loctite on the end of the screwdriver and then smear it over all of the female thread. Also do the male thread then leave it overnight to cure.

You better put some thought and time into this one cause you are in Scottand.

Or you can just do what most aussie guys do and just say "'phuck it'' she'll be right

Edited by turbotrana
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  • Member For: 17y 3m 5d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: QLD

Best off finding how long the crack is, use Kero. It will leave a wet line where crack is.

Then get a small drill bit, drill at end of crack. Keep a vacum near so you catch as much swarf as possible.

Grease on drill bit helps catch the swarf as well.

Once done get a tap to suit, tap a thread into it.

Screw a bolt into it, grind head off for flush finish.

That will stop the crack from growing.

Then grind a small groove into crack, fill with devcon or a high quality

Metal bond compound.

Or get welded.

As for the tread in oil gallery you could have it drilled and tapped for larger fitting and use a reducer fitting.

A lot of mucking around but cheaper then replacing.

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