Jump to content

E Boost + Tach Adapter


383ongiggle

Recommended Posts

  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 14y 5m 7d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Newman, WA

Hey

Looking for some help. I have a b series falcon that I have converted to turbo. Have had her tuned by simon at XFT, but didnt have the e boost street seen to as I didnt have a tach adapter to get the rpm signal needed. Has anybody installed this boost controller in there e series? Which tach adapter did you use? I have a MSD adapter that I removed from my previous car (p/n 8920) but im not sure whether this will be what I need?

Any help would be grateful

Stu

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moar Powar Babeh
  • Lifetime Members
  • Member For: 18y 6m 5d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth

Stu, the 8920 wont work. You need a http://www.autometer.com/cat_accessoriesdetail.aspx?vid=99 or ford motorsport tach driver (herrods used to sell them) or http://shop.rocketindustries.com.au/products/FMM-17361-A200 either will convert the crank angle sensor output to a 5v square wave that the E-boost needs.

EDIT: is it an E or B series? if its and E with a dizzy, you should be able to wire it directly to the coil trigger wire. If its a E or B with Multi coil IGN refer above :thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 14y 5m 7d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Newman, WA

Have the autometer adapter now, anybody got a wiring diagram or a good idea of which wire the crank angle sensor output is so I can get this thing working? :)

Stu

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moar Powar Babeh
  • Lifetime Members
  • Member For: 18y 6m 5d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth

Its in eec connector A which is the pcm connector closet to the fire wall. That is the engine sensor/output harness (i've assumed your cars a ba)

Wiring diag attached. Its an inductive sensor so either wire will give you a signal.... :thumbsup:

post-7403-0-02176100-1311928305_thumb.jp

I would tap in @ the plug as it easy to remove the lock plate from the plug, remove the terminal, tap into the wire and slide heat shrink down to cover you tap. :spoton:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 14y 5m 7d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Newman, WA

No good :( spliced into the white wire in spot 41 in the plug that feeds into the pcm closest to the firewall...(right one?) she just coughed and spluttered and wouldnt start. As soon as I cut the splice she started again. Any ideas?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moar Powar Babeh
  • Lifetime Members
  • Member For: 18y 6m 5d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth

Mate, if you got the autometer adaptor I linked, you need to T it into a coil wire not the CAS.

Have a look at the this http://www.autometer.com/techinfo_newsarticle.aspx?yr=2010&mo=1&pg=1&aid=10 for a GM but explains the concept/install well

cheers

Luke

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member
  • Member For: 15y 5m 19d

Hi. Mount the autometer tach adapter on the firewall using one stud for the ABS one one side and 2 short self tappers on the other and then run the two red wires and the earth wire toward the front of the car to the multi pin plug near the ECU. On the engine side of the plug locate a heavy red/green (pinky red and pale green) wire and cut this wire about 50 mm from the plug. Join the plug side (ecu side) to the red wire and the engine side to the red/black wire and then run the earth wire across toward the ECU and earth it on the stud that secures the AC pipe behind the ECU. The gray wire can either run across the engine bay with the brake pipes or down to the grommet below the glovebox. All done. Cheers MD

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member
  • Member For: 17y 2m 14d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: QLD

Do you have to fit one of these autometer tach adapters to run the eboost2.

Or is it required only if you want to set varied boost per rpm.

I'm just looking at running micro switches on shifter lever setting lower boost in 1-3.

Would like to know for when I set mine up, if say I run it with varied boost per gears how

Do you get around AFR's staying correct on factory Ecu.

Eg with higher boost in 4-5 gear I will require to more fuel and when it's running less boost in the lower gears it will be running rich because of it.

Is there a boost compensator in the tune that can be set to correct the different levels of boost.

What are the autometer adaptors worth.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
  • Create New...
'