Fpt & 6Boost Go 735 Plus Kw & Still Climbing

[XYZ]

If jamie threw a couple more logs in it would have made 1000rwsp for sure.. (rear wheel steam power)

[mic]

do arp make a head stud for the barra ?

[wagnman]

Just out of interest, how is the actual cylinder head itself standing up to these kind of power levels?

I remember years ago (think EA - EB) the cylinder heads were made of alloy that was so soft they warped and twisted at the slightest hint of over heating etc.

I wonder how long till someone puts their hands up and starts to pump out some billet cnc heads for these FORD 6's?

[XYZ]

do arp make a head stud for the barra ?

Yeah they do, I think there is about 2 or 3 different ones avaliable from arp to suit the barra..

[qik1]

The heads comin off tomorrow to see if theres any mechanical damage.

Like Ben said arp do a 12mm stud which most run, mine had something else & abit untested but should of been the ducks a5e bar goin the 14mm'ers

We're hopin we damaged the gasket months ago & this is just the result of it all but who knows. Guess we'll soon find out

[xr6t_ute]

ive got 12mm ones from atomic, was told it will hold till 600rwkw.

Hope all gets sorted out and that you dont have much damage.

[turbotrana]

I find that ARP bolt washers are way too thin diameter wise. A 12mm ARP head bolt washer has a OD of 19mm. I dont know if this is the type of washer you used. I have not played with a B or F series heads but on performance heads I have done, if there is room I like to machine the flats where the bolt washer sits on as large as possible. I then get the biggest diameter washers laser cut to fit in that space. Also cut it out of pretty thick steel. On the heads I have done I have usually been able to get a 25mm diameter, 8mm thick washer to tighten down the head. What this does is just spread the force of the top of the bolt more evenly over the head. Every little bit helps Now you may not think this does much but I have done this with a head that was a little soft and the ARP washers would sink into the head but with the big washers it just solved the problem. Didnt sink at all. Your laser cutter should have the higher grade steel that they usually stock but you dont need ground washer, just clean up the washers with a die grinder when they come back from the laser cutters.

Edited 09/01/12 01:37 PM by turbotrana

[mic]

that's a good idea but wouldnt it effect the tensioning of the bolt ? the washers are made of special moly so tension is even and accurate.

[turbotrana]

I have also sat the ground and hardenned washer on top of the laser cut steel washer (if there is room) and tightened up with just the steel washer. . I use a Warren and Brown torque wrench along with a lubricant so I think it would be pretty even. On the laser cut washer you could get gaulling but I never have a problem with a good lubricant.

What torque do you use on the head bolts. I have used around 110 to 120 ft/lb on a 1/2" studded block which I think is pretty tight. I use the JMM 3 stage tightning recomendation. Maybe with 1000hp you may need to tighten things to 140+ ft/lb.

If using 14mm bolts you would want to make sure that there is plenty of meat in the block and in the head. It could make things worse.

Edited 10/01/12 01:25 AM by turbotrana

[mic]

yeah nice one ^^. go with the arp's jon. my 26 is torqued up to 105 ft/lb and no dramas they are tough and used for mega tough builds. they also have plenty more space for higher torque.