Jump to content

Fg Xr6T Brake Temp


snakeoilstu

Recommended Posts

  • Member
  • Member For: 15y 3m 22d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Upper Hutt NZ

Greetings I took my 09 fg xr6t onto a track the other day for a play and found 180k - 80k after about 2 laps didn't work. Ok so went to an aftermarket supplier who sold me dba 4000 series front rotors, Ferodo pads all round (not sure what model) they just say "race developed formula - made in Thailand", and some Penzoil high temp fluid. So ran them in for 300k easy braking and then back to a different track and after 2 laps of spirited braking (but not from over 140k down to 80k say), they were smoking and spitting. I thought that might have been just the new rotors, maybe an anti corrosive or something burning off. Carried on for another 20 laps or so 2-3 laps at a time and then a break (hand brake kept off), then another 2 or so and when I checked things out after, the temp monitoring colours on the dba rotors had all changed, apparently indicating it had gone over 630 deg C. Haven't removed the pads but they feel like a fair bit of meat has gone. The brakes I might add worked fine during the track running and since. They didn't feel too much different than the std units except for the important feature that they kept on working. Did get blown away by both a 71 charger running a hot 340 and (ouch) an audi TT hairdressers car but that's a diffrent storey and it was a tight track. So.....

Have I stuffed something ?

Was I braking too hard ?

Are the thermal indicators accurate ?

Any thoughts ?

Cheers

Stu

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Dropping a turd
  • Gold Donating Members
  • Member For: 16y 5m 1d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth

Sounds like the pads didnt perform well enough and overheated your discs. I would say you may need a better pad for the track like ebc yellow. Ebc red is good for the street and is good for the track to. EBC red makes very little dust.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member
  • Member For: 15y 3m 22d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Upper Hutt NZ

Bugger. Thnaks for that. So now the rotors have overheated does that mean they need replacing ? as I said the brakes still seem to work fine, no shuddering or anything. Cheers Stu

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member
  • Member For: 20y 7m 10d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: NSW

I just did a track day at Wakefield on the weekend with the same brake setup DBA4000 and Ferodo TS2000 with RBF600 Motul fluid and mine held up fine and yes all three Temp indicators changed colour on mine too they should be fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member
  • Member For: 15y 3m 22d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Upper Hutt NZ

Ahh, that's a relief. I take it you were running an XR6T as well ? I've yet to take the pads off and have a look but had come to the conclusion after talking to the supplier today that as long as there was 10mm or so of pad left I'd leave well enough alone. I still however have the prblem of not being able to keep up with a 180HP audi TT running Hero tyres (appriately named I think judging by the squealing and sliding they put out). Assuming you are running the same car as me, and driving ability aside, any suggestions about ways to improve handing round a tightish track. I am running my second set on Dunlop Sports Max or whatever the original tyres are 245 x 18's. Seemed Ok on the road but felt like they were sledging and combined with what felt like lots of body roll on the track made me slow on the bends. I was also leaving it in auto but found on some occasions it woudlnd't chnage up, just sat on 6500 which I assume is controlled by the rev limiter. Someone said that might be oil slosh in the box. Is that a known problem with hard driving ? Thansk for the help.

Stu

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member
  • Member For: 17y 18d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Slip Sliding Away

Sounds like you had a blast.

Slow into the turn and fast out is the best in these things.

You say its not changing up a gear, is that when you back off the accelerator fast for a corner?

If it is the car thinks you want engine braking.

I would think Manual mode would be best though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member
  • Member For: 15y 3m 22d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Upper Hutt NZ

Yeh it was the most fun I've had with my clothes on. The failure to change up was having powered out of a corner and foot flat - straight line heading for the next one. Don't think even the dumbest gearbox could have thought anything other than I wanted to go faster.......... quickly ! Cheers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member
  • Member For: 20y 7m 23d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Newcastle

What track were you at?

Your rotors should be fine. I've run my car at Wakefield and with Ferodo pads with great results. But something to know is there are two different types of Ferodo. The Thailand specials and then the proper Italian made ones. I'd suggest changing your pads to either DS performance or DS2500's which are the Italian made ferodos. They will perform substantially better.

My DBA 4000's have had hairline cracks in them for close to two years and still perform great. Getting quite worn now and ready for replacement though.

Benny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member
  • Member For: 14y 6m 20d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Penrith, NSW

When you get a chance, check your piston seals. Mine were reduced to a flaking mess after the last track day and I had to have them replaced.

You'll find on the tighter tracks an old MX-5 will keep up with an XR6T.

Edited by Skidude
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member
  • Member For: 15y 3m 22d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Upper Hutt NZ

Thanks guys. I was on track 2 at Taupo NZ. Yep...I'm a sheep shagger. Had no idea what tyre pressure to run so I put them on 34psi all round where I normally do 36. No standard handling improvements you can recommend ? I usually drive in auto so to start going on the track for the first time plus using manual for anything other than engine braking was too big a jump for my old witts and undersized cpu but I think I will need to do that (drive in manual) next time. Its just there are so many gears you can't "feel" which one its in without looking at the console all the time. Maybe a heads up display would help....anyone got one of those ? Cheers Stu

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
  • Create New...
'