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Massive Understeer At The Track, What To Do?


xr_velocity

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  • ʎǝʞuoɯ ɹoıuǝs
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  • Member For: 15y 4m 7d
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I've had an FG xr6 na for the last week as a hire car. what makes these cars turn in so much better than the b series? I have whiteline f&r, bilsteins, poly bushes on front lower control arms but still doesn't seem as sharp to steer as the fg. what gives?

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  • Member For: 16y 11m 27d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: central coast

I've had an FG xr6 na for the last week as a hire car. what makes these cars turn in so much better than the b series? I have whiteline f&r, bilsteins, poly bushes on front lower control arms but still doesn't seem as sharp to steer as the fg. what gives?

you might have a bad wheel alignment too and I don't meen havn't had one just not done right, because atm I am trying to get my BF to turn in slower ,I have to keep straitening it after turn in to keep it on line,

needs a little toe out on frnt and more camber to help drag the inside wheel out a bit,

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  • Member For: 16y 4m 2d
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  • Location: Brisbane

FG:

-suspension components are alloy, so less unsprung weight. Also has dedicated radius rod for fore/aft loads, not the combination loads that the AU/BA/BF's have

-N/A engine= less weight on front

-rack ratio I believe varies from low ratio on center to high ratio turned (this will sharpen up turn in)

-big front bar as std to also sharpen up turn in response

-slighty different upper control arm pivot point (about 1/2cm lower)....slightly less camber loss on suspension compression from cornering

-probably different camber/caster/toe settings

-they also have the rack mounted in front of the crossmember....seems to be the current go. This probably doesn't make much difference though

Good turn in will make it "feel" sharper, but that is different to what maximum grip it can sustain in a corner....ie maximum sustainable mechanical grip.

To get it to return the wheel to straight, you need MORE CASTER.

I would get your BA/BF to a wheel alignment shop and maximise the camber on the front. This will be a good street match for the mods you have already done. I would also replace the upper control arm bushes with poly.

The UCA bushes as std are both rubber....the rear is solid, but the front ones are voided/ribbed. I believe that these should be replaced when the lowers are done. A cheap and easy installation.....not even the damper has to be disturbed. A press is required though.

Edited by Smoke them tyres
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  • Member For: 16y 4m 2d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Brisbane

Here is a picture of the UCA std bushes for a BA/BF:

post-13888-128938852989_thumb.jpg

Might be quiet, but not good for accurate wheel/toe control under braking. Worn/soft ones will scrub out the inside of the tyres from toe out as load is applied to them.

Edited by Smoke them tyres
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