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SPIKO

Project Manual Typhoon 9 Sec

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Nothing wrong with a bit of livening I am sure you all agree!

John & Brandon you builds are a credit to you guy's and I am sure you will achieve your goals, as you know I am here to help, this I have proven in the past and will continue to do in the future!

To be fair I have been at it a little longer than most, and I was always going to pick up where I left off, at the end of the day any R&D that I do benefits all in the end, the only time I keep certain things to myself is during the build, after I have achieved whatever I set out to do I have been known to share fella's!

This other engine has been a very long time in the planning, it is not a recent idea!

Nearly forgot Rhys86 the current engine was built 4 years ago, to the best of my recolection it runs Argo rods, SRP or JE pistons a girdle, race barings, billet oil pump gears and atomic race valve springs!

Cheers

Edited by SPIKO

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that's what its all about mate, if anyone can take something away from your experiences it all worth it. All I can do is congratulate you for having a crack & taking it to the next level. When its done I'm drivin down to have a look that's for sure. But for now we all want to see what you have up ya sleeve for this animal which im sure will more than drop a few jaws & more importantly put a smile on ya face.

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Thank Mic,

I have been down that path before, this was not required with my current combo, the turbo will run out of puff before any of these things become an issue! I spin the street tune to 6850 and the race tune to 7200 with no drama's, the engine has done over 60K with over 400+rwkw's at these rpm levels, and I might add that it is performing flawlessly! (For now)

On a different note I have another engine combo currently in the making, it will be ready for January 2010, it will spin to 9000rpm, it has solid roller, solid lifters & rockers, it will run an 88mm Precision Billet turbo, it will be dry sumped, and it will make 1000rwkw's!! And before you all ask me the same question YES it will be a street engine going in to the F6. I do not want to divulge any more at this stage and I will be starting a different thread about this after new years. I am busy focusing on this 10sec pass for now, surely you all understand!!

Cheers

Spiko

With out sounding to self-assured, I think Spiro is being a bit modest when saying it is going to make 1000rwkw... :-)

Kind regards

CV Performance

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Wow Spiro. Your new project sounds absolutely ridonkulous! Can't wait to hear and see more on this. My project kind of sounds part way between the "average" 600+rwkw project and your new "king of projects" at 1000+ rwkw.

The vast majority of people I've spoken to about the path/s I want to go down have had the attitude "why not let the turbo do all the work?". But I reckon if we can gain efficiency, lower cylinder pressures, and a more accurate and smooth engine, we may just gain a few psi and a nice amount of HP all at lower boost levels and less stress on components. That way, I hope to push well into the 700's (rwkw) without too much of a sweat :)

So we chose to go solid lifters, aggressive cam, extensive head work, bigger head studs, and a little extra machine work etc. The only thing I am a little worried about at this stage is the crank. I plan on spinning it to 7500 and I chose not to go down the billet crank setup due to the bang-for buck factor ( 7+ grand for a full billet crank and caps setup). What have/are you doing in that department? Lately, I've also toyed with the idea of a dry sump but haven't taken that past the thought stage. What can you say about it?

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Thanks Straughs,

You have the Right attitude regarding your setup, I'm sure you will get there. As far as crank is concerned I am running a forged billet crank, but to answer your question if you don't plan on spinning it past 7800-8000rpm you will not need one as long as you build your bottom end properly.

Hope this helps, PM me if you need to know more!

PS: DRanged I understand what you are saying, however you presume that the drive line, tyre width & suspension will be remaining the same!

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haha I did give it a thought but I guess you must be going 9 inch then:) I cant wait for the day these motors can take a warm piss on the 2jz's. its only a matter of time. cracking 1MW will be a very big milestone

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That'll be good, especially for those that want to run abit more than the average but dont want a 9in. It'll be a great r&d project that im sure alot of people will benefit from, me incl. Thanks mate!!!

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Be interesting to see what happens with your IRS. I know dave(blueboost) has pushed quite far with it, but ultimately busted the center.. I think he mentioned he used KPM Shaft/cv setup..

I've got the albins cv setup in the inner cv's, albins shafts, but standard outter cv's.. I didnt know they had them available at that point..

Next weaknesses are the inner cv housing which splines into the diff.. I've seen the shafts snap off.. And then there's the Diff itself... maybe a harrop trutrak center might help there?

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I run exactly the same CV's and shafts as you Headsex, the outer diff housing let go before they did, I dont think you will have a problem.

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yeah.. Which is what im worried about =)...

I know albins now have a complete shaft setup, they turn the inner housing to a bolt on type utilising porche 930 cv's and custom drive flanges. They also utilise a 30spline shaft as well.

But its very $$$

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no no no.. the half shaft to CV spline is 30spline... the Housing spline into the Diff is still factory sized

:D

Sorry I had to re-read the email from albins again..

I'll paste it here for others..

Driveshaft Kit(for one car) includes - 2 x drive shafts, 4 x 930 CV joints with 30 spline inners, 2 x inner drive flanges, 2 x stub axles, 4 x CV boots, 4 x CV boot flanges, CV bolts, assembly.

I asked about the inner cv housing spline into the diff being a weakness, and this was Hadens reply

We can’t go any bigger in diameter into the diff for the new drive flange size as we are stuck with the factory sized diff side gears, but our drive flanges into the diff should be at least twice as strong as the equivalent standard part as they are going to be made using better material and will also be shot peened which will help stop the surface cracking which ultimately results in the splined shaft breaking inside the diff.

Anyways.. Sorry to hijack the thread :)

Edited by Headsex

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1k rwkw, hats off to you my friend! im still coming to terms with half that!

I got a set of those extreme heavy duty albins shafts on order and should be on the car hopefully before xmas, ill let you know how I go!

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