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Oil Feed Line


SuckSqueezeBangBlow

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  • ʎǝʞuoɯ ɹoıuǝs
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 15y 3m 12d
  • Gender: Male

Hi, so although my car only had 26000kms when I bought it I don't know if the previous owner idled it down after a thrash or not.

To find out if my oil feed line has carbon build up I thought I could either 1. undo the oil feed line and run the oil into a measuring container to work out a rough litres per hour or minute or whatever, or 2. undo the drain into the pan and do the same.

I guess my question is, is there a set figure on how much flow the oil feed should provide given there is a restrictor at the entrance to the CHRA? or should I just buy ETM's aftermarket line? I just like the stock look so perhaps I could run the feed around the back of the head instead?

just thinking/writing out loud, any ideas appreciated.

Jono

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  • Silver Donating Members
  • Member For: 18y 8m 21d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: OZ

Just replace the standard filter (and line if you're worried) in the first instance. But in saying that, it's such a PITA job that I'd just spend the money and go ETM if I were to do it again :P

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  • It's All In Your Mind
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  • Member For: 20y 4m 28d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne

if I was to spend any $$$ I'd rather just get ETMs braided lines I think

Well worth it IMHO. Looks great and puts a 100% end to the issue and any potential cooked oil blocking

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  • It's not a MKI!
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  • Member For: 15y 9m 9d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Earth

The only 100% end/cure to blocked turbo oil supply lines is regular servicing.

You can fit any aftermarket supply line and screen, but if you don't service it you will still end up with the same result.

The thing that causes failure is lack of regular servicing.

If you fit an aftermarket supply line you will not decrease the chances of this happening. All you will be doing is making the screen easier to access.

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  • Dropping a turd
  • Gold Donating Members
  • Member For: 16y 5m 2d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth

Here is how it works. If you do not regularly change the oil or do a lot of motorsport which excessively overheats the oil, this will cause the oil supply line filter to start to block. This reduces the oil flow through the oil line which results in two things 1) reduced oil to the turbo. 2) the reduced flow through the oil line ( which actually cools the line as it flows through it)starts to overheat the oil causing it to oxidize and leave deposits on the inside of the oil line at the hottest section next to the turbo. This cycle continues until either the filter blocks or the oil line blocks, either way two minutes later no more turbo bearings. The simplest thing to do is remove the inline turbo oil filter ( the turbo doesnt require the filter after approx 2000kms, as its only there as Garret wouldnt warrant the turbos, as Ford had a problem with not being able to remove all casting remnants and this caused premature turbo bearing failure) and change your oil regularly. Arron

P.S -- removing the factory inline turbo filter may void your warranty. But we all know once you modify your engine or its components in any way you have no warranty any rate.

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  • Member
  • Member For: 16y 3m 7d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Brisbane

The coking in the line is probably because the oil flow is already reduced by that stupid std inline filter. It is only there to catch any crud when the engine is new. Now that it's not it should be sent packing.

I removed mine. This filter sits after the main oil filter. Why filter filtered oil and create a headache for no gain? The surface area of the filter in the feed line would be in the mm2........pointless.

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  • Member
  • Member For: 15y 7m 27d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Noble park

do you guys reccomend just replacing the filter with a brand new one or taking the screen filter out so it doesnt run a filter ? gonna do mine soon so wanna no the best option

cheers

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  • It's not a MKI!
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  • Member For: 15y 9m 9d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Earth

Everyone will have their own opinion smXR6.

If you're asking me, just replace the fitting that houses the screen when you service it.

Depending on where you buy it, it's around $60. You can try and remove it if you like, but the chances of damaging it when trying to get it out are quite high.

It's your money at the end of the day.

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