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Crapri Drag Car


Tocchi

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  • Sandtrap Motorsport
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  • Member For: 15y 4m 25d
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  • Location: Perth

When changing flexplate, I noticed a leak in the radiator (end tank), Cbf sorting that on the day, so I waited until I got back from work and bought a brand new one (rather than using my good condition non turbo radiator) for $137 (rrp $260) winning.

I think all the breakages are done with now

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  • Location: Probably above atmospheric pressure

How old is the busted rad?  Any idea why it failed?

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  • Sandtrap Motorsport
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1 hour ago, -Stever- said:

How old is the busted rad?  Any idea why it failed?

BF era radiator, so could be up to 10 years old. 
I only noticed it after running Toyota coolant (as when I changed it out, it was running demineralised water, so I wouldn't have noticed any leaks due to no crystalline buildup at the point of leak), so I can't say how long it was there for, but probably can be fixed easy, I just wanted an immediate solution - as they say, or something, a fool spends a pound to save a penny. 

as you can see with the failure, it is right at the point where the core meets the end tank.

 

50 minutes ago, Ralph Wiggum said:

did your mate Jack have anything to do with it?

nah, didn't need any ramps or jacks. did it insitu on the driveway

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  • 1 month later...
  • Sandtrap Motorsport
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Beefed up more than Sam The Butcher

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Bored & torque plate honed.

Line honed.

Assembly balanced

Etc

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The crank has been checked & re-polished... Supposedly the original (Isotropic) polishing is sh*t for the bearing surfaces. It was like a mountain range.

I could have saved money ($700) originally (by avoiding the isotropic polishing) but now since the crank has been addressed, I have a good crank, so that's what matters.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • Sandtrap Motorsport
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4L DOHC thrust bearing - has anybody got an engine apart / photo of one?

As I'm needing to get a 360 degree thrust bearing made (they went to 180 deg from BA onwards), so images would be sweet to show the machining shop as I'm crap at explaining

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  • Member For: 11y 16d
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I can't find a picture, but just buy another set of bearings and use the 2nd thrust bearing and put it on your #4 cap and you have 360* thrust... There's no machining to the cap required, I think he just chamfered the ends to ensure oil got down there

If that makes any sense.. I think atomic charged the same amount for the thrust bearing alone as what another set of bearings cost

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