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Suspension Options and Setup for B Series Ts


Erko

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  • Member For: 17y 2m 13d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: SW Sydney

Correct, just make sure you take note of the spring seat height on your shocks Des, you may need this changed, other wise that spring will raise the car

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If Teins are too much, don't go the remote.

I really had my doubts about them before I had them on. But you can set up a great compromise with the teins for road. I think mine is more comfy now than XR std, and I dont get sea sick through the bends anymore. LOL no wallowing.

And who the hell can sleep before a track day anyway ?????

So whata ya gunna do but play and tinker with your suspension set up the night before.

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  • 1 month later...
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  • Member For: 16y 3m 29d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Brisbane

Further thoughts........

The pivot points for the front and rear control arm assy's are at different pivot spacings:

-the pivot points on the front suspension for the upper and lower control arms are much further apart than on the rear. For the front, even though the upper control arm is relatively short, the wide vertical spacing means that the dynamic camber gain from suspension compression under cornering is on a much gentler inward curve at the top of the tyre than if the upper control arm pivot point was closer to the lower control arm pivot point (a larger effective arc as the spindle and tyre sees it). This means that it cannot completely combat the outward roll of the chassis (that is the upper control arm pivot point). Now that I have done a few thousand K's with the new setup, the new tyre wear pattern has confirmed this. Hence, while I am running approx. 2.5 degrees of camber, I have noticed that the tyre runs about 1cm away from it's outside edge on the straights, it also runs UP TO but not onto the edge on hard cornering. Still waaaay better than the std setup........more grip AND better tyre life to boot.

My old xD with Global West upper control arms maintains the straight ahead (negative) tyre camber in corners as this control arm maintains a more aggressive curve as is is located closer to the lower control arm pivot and more importantly, the roll centre of the front of the car. Hence, my BF does not have as much front end grip as it due to the weight and the slightly worse tyre angle under cornering load........a suspension curve that in real world situations a macpherson strut can only dream of. I could give it some more caster but this may lose me some low load response (light weight transfer).

-1/8"/ or 3mm per side has proved to be the correct amount of toe in for this setup.

-the rear is better in this respect. The tyres have EXACTLY the wear pattern that I was looking for. This is with std springs and no bar. All the benefit of the close pivot points. What also helps is replacing the sad blade link bushes with poly ones to help maintain wheel alignment.

Edited by Smoke them tyres
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  • 3 weeks later...
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  • Member For: 16y 3m 29d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Brisbane

Guys,

Here is a diagram of what I am talking about....the benefits of double wishbones and close pivot points. Note that this is only the static curve. Once the outward roll of the chassis occurs with cornering, the inward pull of the upper control arm will offset it to some or all degree depending on geometry.......

post-13888-126363136797_thumb.png

The RH curve is the std Falcon/Mustang geometry. The LH one is the Global West one. The transformation in handling is SIGNIFICANT......always puts a grin on my face when an old car can outhandle a new one :stupid:

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  • 4 weeks later...
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  • Member For: 14y 10m 6d

I just want to Clarify something as im looking at getting some new wheels and lowered springs later this

week.

Its stated at the start of this thread that the King Springs SL front springs are about the same height as the

stock XR6T springs?

Is this correct as I thought they are what most people put in theres to lower the fronts

with the SSL's in the rear.

Just wanted to make sure I get the right ones fitted.......

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  • Member For: 16y 3m 29d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Brisbane

The car will actually handle better with uprated/stiffer std ride height springs.

This provides adequate suspension travel and also keeps the wishbones at their correct geometry. The c of g/roll centre relationship will also be better.

.........but if looks are more important......

-the SL are std XR6 ride height

-the SSL are 20 mm below that.

See the King spring website.

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  • Member For: 17y 2m 13d
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Actually the SL part number in the front of BA's is the lowered version. KFFL-57SP is the standard height spring for XRs.

The rear standard part number is KFRL-68SL.

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