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Broken Clutch Bleed Line


XRSics

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  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 16y 7m 9d
  • Location: Richmond, Melbourne
When you say loose you mean the whole extension with the bleed nipple on the end is loose, or the bleed nipple is loose.

If the bleed nipple is loose you would have lost your fluid.

If the whole extension is loose that's normal.

If you get someone to depress the clutch pedal and then try and wiggle it, it will be firm.

yeh the whole extension was loose... It was hard to push the clutch because the car was on the hoist.

It seriously felt like the whole thing would snap if we used any force to crack the bleed nipple....

oh well, I am going to get the CSC replaced with a GM on, and I am also going to buy a remote bleed line from mal wood.

problem solved! haha.

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  • It's not a MKI!
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  • Member For: 15y 10m 1d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Earth

The remote bleed line is a good idea, but why are you replacing the csc?

I hope you're not replacing it on the basis that it feels 'loose'.

You'll get the same feeling with the new one.

Like I said before, get someone to depress the clutch and then try and see if it is 'loose'.

Just because it's on a hoist doesn't mean it's going to be hard to do it. Just send someone up in the car. :buttrock:

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  • Member For: 16y 7m 9d
  • Location: Richmond, Melbourne
The remote bleed line is a good idea, but why are you replacing the csc?

I hope you're not replacing it on the basis that it feels 'loose'.

You'll get the same feeling with the new one.

Like I said before, get someone to depress the clutch and then try and see if it is 'loose'.

Just because it's on a hoist doesn't mean it's going to be hard to do it. Just send someone up in the car. :roflmbo:

yeah fair enough..

I more want to change it when I fit the remote bleed valve just because people say that you should fit the GM metal one anyway..

So the normal procedure when cracking the bleed valve is to get someone to stamp on the clutch pedal while you undo it?

Because the original poster in this thread even said that they had to put the bleeder in a vice to get the thing to open! I can't imagine I'll have much more luck than that guy in doing mine if it feels so loose..

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  • It's not a MKI!
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  • Member For: 15y 10m 1d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Earth

Mate, if it ain't broke why fix it?

If you're worried about breaking it take it to someone who can do the job for you.

In saying that, it's not that hard to bleed the clutch.

First of all, if there isn't any air in the system and you are just changing the fluid you can just crack the nipple and gravity feed your new fluid through.

But if there is air in the system you will need another set of legs to depress the clutch pedal for you.

What you do there is crack your bleed nipple and then just nip it up slightly again.

Get someone in the cab to hold the clutch pedal down and crack open the bleed nipple. Wait until the pressure drops off and close the nipple.

Repeat this until you have new fluid coming through the bleed nipple.

Don't forget to keep the fluid level topped up in the reservoir because if it gets too low and you allow air into the system you will be there for a while bleeding it out.

One piece of advice I can offer is before you try to undo the bleed nipple for the first time give it a good dose of crc or some sort of penetrating oil. This will make it easier if it is tight and will minimise the chance of snapping the extension off in the csc.

Good luck.

Disclaimer: Because I can't 'feel' how tight your bleed nipple is I can't comment on whether it will

break off or not. It's in your hands if you chose to do this job.

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  • Member For: 16y 7m 9d
  • Location: Richmond, Melbourne

I'm thinking of taking my car somewhere to get this done, where they have experience with this sort of thing.

Can anyone recommend someone in the mulgrave/dandenong area that would be familiar with these cars and will just be able to bleed the system for me?

thanks for your help phantm, I seriously would try this myself, but I can just see it ending in agony.. haha.

thanks again for your help, much appreciated!

Edited by xr6turbo_lover
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  • 10 years later...
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  • Member For: 13y 2m 28d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Townsville

Hey mate, I know it's 10 years later but did the GM Alloy CSC work on the Ford T56. I went to buy one for $70 and was told the GM CSC had a smaller bore hole and would not fit over the Ford input shaft so I bought the Mal Wood Ford Alloy CSC for $200.

IMG_20191023_215506.jpg

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  • Member For: 10y 6m 21d

I've ran a GM slave cylinder on my ford t56 for years it fits the same and the GM bleeder works much better then the ford one. They also don't break like a plastic one.

Everyone will tell you that you need to buy the mal wood billet slave which is a just a classic mal wood cash grab waste of money.

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