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our06t

Replacing Shocks And Springs

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First get a mesure of ride height from centre of hub to wheel arch, mine were 365mm fronts 380mm rears

1. Lift car on to stands placed under the chassis rail , Remove wheels

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2. For the left side remove air box from crossover ,for right side remove overflow bottle you don’t need to remove it completely just unbolt it and move aside so you can access top strut bolts.

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3. Crack the first nut 17mm closet to the front first don’t remove it yet then remove the other two nuts holding the top of strut ,The one under the ecu is a pain just needs a little extra patience. Do not remove the nut in the center this is holding the spring in the strut.

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4. I then dropped the sway bay off at the drop links 14mm nuts , This allows you to push the sway bar down out of the way so you can push the lower arm further down later on .

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5. Remove brake line from its holding bracket , Remove nut from bottom of the strut 22mm nut and large shifter on bolt head but leave the bolt in for now , Then remove nut from the upper ball joint 18mm nut

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6. Now remove bolt at bottom of strut and the last nut from the top of the strut mount, This is where two people would be good, Take the bolt out of the upper joint this will let the lower arm and hub drop down , You need to be carefull not to stretch brake line and be very careful not to damage abs wire that runs under the bottom of strut.

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7. Before removing strut make note of where the top of the coil spring finishes and make sure the new one goes back at the same place.

8. Get one person to hold the arm that’s been disconnected from upper joint and push the lower arm and hub down this will allow you to drop the strut down and out of the car . Unfortunatly I couldn't take pics at this time as I was doing it by myself.

9. Take strut assembly aside and apply spring compresser ,These really dont need to be forced to much just compress the spring a little , Then remove the top of the strut by slowly undoing the 17mm nut from the top.( compressers from hire shop $20 )

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10. Now assemble new strut and spring , With these ones I was able to push down on the spring and was able to get the new nut back on the top ,Tighten top nut

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11. Then follow removal process in reverse to install new strut .

This took me 3 hours start to finish ,spend a day or so reading everything about this you can find plan your attack and it's not that hard a job.

Hope this helps anyone trying this.

:Welcome2FordXR6t:

Edited by our06t

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So far I only did the front ,will do rears tonight and get wheel aligh tommorow then leave some feedback on how it rides

I used whiteline control springs and bilstien shocks .

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Well Done on the write up mate :Welcome2FordXR6t:

Its always good when people take the time to do these guides, it benefits sooo many people.

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Cheers mate it's a good way to do a job to , it helps you step it out and remember to do the little things when your thinkin of some one else trying to follow your steps.

If any one else has extra tips or tricks add them to.

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excellent mate, thanks for taking the time to do such a write up good job!! :nuts2:

Do you happen to know the model code for the front and rear Shocks im looking into getting a set im just not sure how many model's bilstein make for the BA/BF.

cheers

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had wheel alignment done ,nothing really needed doing apparently it all went back back in the same spots wich is a good thing.

After a couple of hours cruising the old Pacific Hwy on Sat. This set up has made a huge difference to the car , overall a much better experience as far as steering the car goes, Gave up a very minor amount of ride comfort but the response and confidence in the car is well worth it.

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Yesterday, my own Bilstiens arrived on my doorstep. In between the gazillion other bloody things I did today, I fitted the rear pair.

Did the left side first and it was a bit of a pain in the bum, but what I learned, I put in to practice and did the right side in no time.

Here`s a couple tips. Grab a second jack, okay I left my trolley jack under the car with a chassis stand as insurance, so I grabbed the weird scissor jack outa me Daewoo work car and supported the bottom control arm with it.

Just crack the top retaining bolt, then remove the bottom bugger alltogether. Finally remove the top bolt and withdraw the stock shock.

NOW!!! The Bilstein is a bee`s dick bigger at the top mount eye part. so, loosen the 10 mm head size bolts around the top eyelet - mount that are circled in the pic.

Loosen them 3/4`s the way out.

If you don`t, you`ll dick around for 30 or more mins trying to get the top bolt in. Loosen those four eyelet bracket bolts off and you are gold.

Tighten it all up, before you put the wheel on, have a squizz at your rear brake pads.

I wire brushed the rust off the hub where it mates up with the wheel and wiped on a bit of lanotec sheep grease in the vain hope it`d stop it from returning.

After a quick drive, I felt a tangible difference just with the rears. My car would axle tramp like a dirty old HQ, but it does nothing of the kind now. I`m itching to fit the fronts for sure.. I reckon the stockers are shagged, you can just work them like a push bike pump almost, the Billy`s? ah nuh..

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Edited by Spinifex

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$1055 to my door. Ordered late last friday received here tuesday arvo, not too shabby so close to xmas.. I typed Bilstein AU into google and went from there.

Can not wait to fit the fronts..

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In relation to what you get out of it, I reckon its real value indeed. I can`t wait to put what I learned from the original post into practice and fit the fronts. Thanks our06t by the way.

LOL, I reckon I`ll be under the front guards xmas arvo..

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LOL, how much to have the fronts fitted?? I`m mid way through this, just stopped for a turkey sanga.

It`s a bit of a bastard by ya self, eh.

Not impossible, but not much fun.

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Okay I`d have editing my last but didn`t have time to work it out.

I`ve replaced all four shocks on my BF Typhoon with Bilsteins.

The stock springs remain, I`m happy to keep them there for now, I`ve got no real issue with them.

Couple more clues I can add for the front fitting: If you`re gonna do one side at a time like I had too ( which is to say jack one side at a time cause of ya rabbit hole carport ) undo the end links for the front sway bar first, both of them. It becomes apparent that the bar won`t swing down outa the way and allow the bottom control arm to travel far enough to let the shock come out.

Undo the middle - main nut on the top of the shock while its still in the car, just back it off a bit and it makes its easier to remove on the ground.

Once you`re finished, go for a drive and be very happy with your purchase.

I gained ride quality I beleive. It just feel waaaaay better everywhere.

I reckon its a grand really well spent, its not that hard to do yourself either, lol I did the drivers side in no time once I made all the blues on the passenger side.

Edited by Spinifex

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I did the same thing last week.

On the passengers side I did what you suggested, removing the top strut bolts, and the one under the ecu is a pain in the ass.

So... on the drivers side I took a different approach.

My step by step would be:

1. with car on the ground - remove radiator overflow bracket bolts and sit on top of turbo shield

2. remove air filter housing and pipe to crossover

3. unbolt centre bolt that holds the top of the shock on each side (that is why the car needs to be on the ground or it turns)

4. loosen wheel nuts

5. Jack car up and support

6. Remove wheels

7. remove bolts holding sway bar to brackets

8. Loosen sway bar brackets and swing sway bar out of the way

9. remove bolt holding the strut/shock to the bottom arm

10. remove bolt holding top arm

11. pull down hard on bottom arm (I didnt have a problem with wire or brake hose)

12. remove shock and spring (didnt need to take strut top or use compressor in the end)

13. remove spring from strut, and put new one on

14. put all bits back on, do up bolts

15. Put car on ground, do up shock bolts, wheel nuts

The passengers side doing as you suggested took me about 1.5 hours of pissing about, drivers side half an hour all up.

PS - my car now has standard shocks, SL King front, SSL king rear, whiteline swaybars front and rear, and I am very happy with the stance and handling. I recently added GT 19s with GoodYear F1s - and the car handles really well for a big car. The car used to break traction in the dry as boost comes on, now it has about the same grip in the wet (almost).

Edited by cobrav8

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I'm glad that worked ok for you , and probably will in most cases , BUT undoing that center bolt can cause you injury if the spring is still under pressure when you undo the bolts at the bottom of the shock .

mine was the same too always takes 3 times longer to do the first side , once you know what ya doing it's all too easy

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yeh.. understand what you mean, and they can be under tension- but... if you undo the top bolt and then raise car up - the tension of the car weight drops away with the bottom arm. Unless you have a taller than standard XR spring - I think you will be fine. I was removing an XR6T standard front and putting on the SL King Spring. You can also check by grabbing the spring with the weight off the wheels - you can see that the spring turns back and forward easily - hence no tension.

I also would not recommend doing this with the sway bar attached and one wheel on the ground, as the spring pressure from one side will be pushing on the other.

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$1055 to my door. Ordered late last friday received here tuesday arvo, not too shabby so close to xmas.. I typed Bilstein AU into google and went from there.

Can not wait to fit the fronts..

Put Bilsteins on my XC 30 years ago.

Cost me $600.

You've got a good price considering the time.

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