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Handbrake Goes Up Real High


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so my 2003 BA's handbrake goes up further than it did originally and seems to need adjustment. it works fine but doesnt look right in terms of how far I have to pull it up. I have nfi about these, how much will an adjustment cost? will it last long?

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so my 2003 BA's handbrake goes up further than it did originally and seems to need adjustment. it works fine but doesnt look right in terms of how far I have to pull it up. I have nfi about these, how much will an adjustment cost? will it last long?

It's easier to ask foe it to be tightened at your next service but if you can't wait that long, it will cost you 5 minutes.

Crawl underneath and look for a long screw thread with a nut on it and a couple of other bits. It's roughly a little over halfway back on the ute. That's the handbrake, tighten that and off you go.

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Should not cost, I get mine done during each service and they dont charge me for it.

Rob...

I hear it very well depends on the relationship you have with your fraud service department. Many posts on here complaining about being charged for it.

Mine starting to point at the roof too.

I.B.

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Dont just tighten the cable as that's the apprentice way of doing it. The correct way is to remove the wheels and adjust the handbrake actuators thru the rear disc holes. Then adjust the cable if needed. The cable never comes undone,its the handbrake shoes that wear and the actuator adjustments can sometimes de adjust if someones bent the holding clip. So many people adjust it at the cable which causes handbrake shoes to squeak and wear out.

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Hey mate, I did my apprenticeship on the BA and thus have done that many handbrake adjustments its not funny, its not as simple as crawling under the car and tightening up the cable adjustment, Sometimes yes this will work but its relatively short lived. And Ive seen Other ford mechanics do it and screw it up. This is what Ive found to work best.

1- If you have tightened the cable up using the cable adjustment above the tail shaft, back it off to there is no tension on the cable and thus, no pressure on the rear handbrake shoes.

2- Raise the rear of the vehicle and remove the wheels and rear callipers and rotors, (there is a means to adjust the shoes through the rotors but I find if you do it my way it last alot longer) remove the rear shoes, pay close attention to the retainer spring inside the shoe, its a pain to refit. take the shoes and use a bench grinder or similar to take the edge of the inside and outside and the leading and trailing edges of the friction material on the shoe. This Stops the possibility of a brake squeel that sometimes occurs when going around corners, and the wheels and hubs move laterally and bind on the inner of the rotor.

3- Use 80 or 120 grade emory tape to scuff the friction material on the shoes and do the same on the inside of the rotor which is technically the drum, make sure there is no lip on the inside of the drum, although it varies with age and km's

4- Re-assemble the the shoes onto the hub with the bastard retainer spring, refit the rotor, taping the shoe to center it will make it easier. Spin the rotor on the hub and see how much drag the shoe puts on the rotor. If there is no drag, remove the rotor and use the tiny wheel to adjust it up, clockwise for more tention and vice-versa.

You want to hear a slight woosh noise when the rotor drags slightly on the shoe. Ford has a special tool to aadjust though shoe to the carrect size, similar to a oversized calliper. and a spacer to measure how far the lever moves on the back of the hub but this is useless if the rotors are worn or shoes etc. By feel is the only way to go.

I apologise if this seems long winded but my dealership used to charge 1.5hrs labour and do a half ass job, but they always came back. I used to spend about an hour to do the job right and never had a problem.

Good luck, If you have any dramas pm me and I will give you my number and I will talk you through it.

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Yeah, by just tightening the cable it will last a few times and the cable will stretch. Follow old mates way and you will have no problems but in saying that ford hand brakes have always been gay and won't work as well as a jap hand brake. not sure what Expensive Daewoo have to offer but from what I've heard they are a similar setup to ford

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With all my skilled knowledge on all things mechanical I think I'd better take mine to a shop. My handbrake hasn't worked since I bought the car so it will be something new to play with lol.

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The XR6T hasn't caused me too much dramas....although it usually needs some adjusting at service time.

Now my AUII is a much different stroy. Thinking of installing a sunroof so I can pull the handbrake fully.

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ahh the innernet, always good for multiple opinions, including those which certainly sound in-the-know.

Ford say the handbrake will be self-adjusting in the FG - hope so.

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I have had a bit of a play with the fg self adjusting hbrake levers and honestly dont think they are going to work as it doesnt self adjust in the discs,only the cable. The design on the new hbrake lever is to releive the cable being pulled on when going around corners or over bumps so hbrake doesnt come on the slightest bit whilst your driving. This is supposed to stop shoes wearing out so not requiring adjustment. Learnt all this at fg training.

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Sorry mate im in Gladstone In central queensland.

I don't work for a ford dealer anymore either, I finished me apprenticeship early, and done the Advenced tech training while I waited for ford to send me my papers then left. I regret is sometimes, escpecially now the FG coming along.

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Sorry mate I am in Melbourne but would of gladly given you a hand otherwise. I honestly dont reccommend doing it yourself as you need to know which way to turn the adjuster wheels and if you tighten too much can sometimes be very hard to turn back. You also need to know if the actuator pin has jumped out and if your hbrake shoes require replacing. Its easy for people who have done it before and know what to look for but if you over adjust them they can drag,lock up or squeak.

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  • 7 months later...
Dont just tighten the cable as that's the apprentice way of doing it. The correct way is to remove the wheels and adjust the handbrake actuators thru the rear disc holes. Then adjust the cable if needed. The cable never comes undone,its the handbrake shoes that wear and the actuator adjustments can sometimes de adjust if someones bent the holding clip. So many people adjust it at the cable which causes handbrake shoes to squeak and wear out.

Before I got the new car I had my BAII adjusted. Here's the official line. It's a 10 minute job if it's just the adjustment. They charge $25 to do that. If it's the full monty they have to adjust the actuators and that is about $110 and an hours work+. Because I was buying a new car they didn't charge me - it was only an adjustment anyway.

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  • 8 months later...

45T-XR is correct, I also did my mechanics course and all his points are pretty much spot on, however, I think its just more of a common thing for some of the fords, I used to have the same problem with my AU and I replaced the actual handbrake shoes (the whole kit) and that fixed the problem.

I think what most people dont realise is that other than adjusting a cable, there is still more to it like checking the shoes themself (depending on model/car) but yeah if you change the stock shoes with aftermarket better gripping ones, the tension of the HB cable doesnt loosen that much over time, maybe needs adjusting once every 6 months or so.

I now have an XR6T and I seem to have the same issues again, I just dont know how hard it is for ford to bloody make a car with a working handbrake that doesnt loosen/stretch over time.

It sucks when your trying to kick into a corner and lift the HB up and its almost at the roof lol, a HB should only click 3-6 times, depending on the feel, I like mine around 5 (5 being reefing it up).

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  • 3 weeks later...
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  • 7 months later...

I'd speculate that if the car has ever been in the shop to repair the "swish swish" brake problem that may have been the cause of the hand brake not working correctly.

The "swish swish" is when there are lips on the inner of the rotor (hand brake drum) and/or lips on the handbrake shoes, this causes the lips on the shoes to drag on the drum as if the shoes were adjusted in to prevent the swish, there wouldnt be enough surface are of the shoes to mate with the drum when the handbrake is applied, If you stick with my method of adjusting the handbrake then you get a handbrake that works sweet and no swish!

cheer

Mic

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  • 3 months later...

Arr the old dealership cable adjustment is always a good one, every handbrake adjustment I do at work, I always deadjust the cable first, then setup the shoe adjusts proply and finish off slight cable ajustment, depending on how streatched your cable is also.

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