Removal Of Turbo In Preperation Of Porting And Valve Mod Part Ii

[mrmackie]

Ok, so now you have the Turbo out of the engine bay.

Find a suitable Flat work bench to mount the turbo on while disassembling. I found a piece of metal (But a piece of MDF or wood could do the trick also) 12mm think, and was perfect to mount the exhaust housing on. I marked the 12mm steel plate with 2 opposing holes from the exhaust housing, and drilled 10mm holes through the plate. I also marked the bench and drilled through that. Make sure you have your parents consent before drilling through their kitchen bench top.

The 12mm board or steel must not extend past the exhaust housing towards the centre of the turbo. But it is ok if any extra you have hangs out the other side. The reason for this is, anything that enters the area near the centre of the turbo may get in the way of a bolt etc that your trying to remove.

Find suitable bolts and nuts to fix the turbo (Through the exhaust housing holes and plate you have made and fix it firm to the bench.

OK: THIS PHOTO SHOW THE TURBO ALREADY APPART, DONT WORRY ABOUT THAT, IM JUST SHOWING MY MOUNTING TO THE BENCH SO YOU HAVE AN IDEA OF WHAT IM TALKING ABOUT.

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IMPORTANT: Mark both the exhaust housing and the centre of the Turbo. I used a texta then scribed a small line in, but if you get your marking within 1mm you should be ok. The more accurate the better, but we are not talking thousands of an inch so don’t stress too much.

Im glad Jimy from xr6turbodevelopments told me this, otherwise I would have cocked this right up. The centre part of the turbo mounts onto the exhaust housing in a way that once you loosen off the 6 x 13mm lock screws, it can be spun 360deg. The problem with not marking the housing is when you reassemble it, if you don’t have the exhaust housing lined up to where it was taken off, your whole turbo could be upside down making attaching the oil/water and intake to compressor impossible to line up.

(I marked mine in 2 different spots)

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Remove the 6 x 13mm exhaust housing bolts. These are very tight (hence the need to fix the turbo to the bench). Also the two bolts near the oil drain line can only be undone so much before they foul, so they will need to be undone as you carefully remove the centre of the turbo from the exhaust housing. You could remove the oil return line, but I left mine in as it is one less thing I have to worry about sealing up later (Or even worse forgetting about then refitting the turbo only to find the return line is underneath the turbo and very hard to reach even with a hoist.)

I then took my turbo to “xr6turbodevelopments” in melbourne, where “Jimy” did the porting and flapper mod. Jimy is great to deal with and willing to help in any way he can. Looking at my housing you will note it has not been sandblasted or painted and that is because I was in a hurry to have my housing finished and back on the plane trip home, otherwise for the same price, Jimy would have sandblasted and painted the housing.

Before:

After:

After you have had your porting and valve replaced, reassemble the turbo, taking into account the two bolts closet to the oil return flange will need to be inserted and slowly done up to enable the turbo to fit back together (as previously discussed at the start of this thread)

Don’t force anything, it will all go back together if every thing is lined up. The Fins on your turbo are strong but brittle (If that makes sense), don’t panic, but just don’t be too rough.

Fit the Actuator to the flapper valve with the circlip, but do not fully attach the actuator to the intake compressor, just use the top bolt to hold it to the housing while you fit the turbo back to the engine.

After the turbo is all back together, fit it back onto the engine.

Note: when fitting back to exhaust manifold, the studs with the nut closer towards the end of the stud go underneath (stud on RHS in photo) (longer useable length) and the other two with less stud length available (LHS stud in photo) go into the top two positions.

You can then fit various parts back together as you will now recognize where things came from because you have already removed it! I found I did a few bolts here and there, fitted a few pipes etc. I did find I had to bend the oil and water lines back into position to get them to look neat again. They may of got bent a little while I removed the turbo but no biggy.

One last tip. When refitting the actuator, I found that putting my hand under the actuator and by using the tip of the finger closest to my pinky on my right hand and using a pen (Yes that’s what I used) or non magnetic poker, I was able to start the lower most actuator bracket bolt into its thread. Once it took I was then able to use my ratchet spanner to do it up. Not easy but manageable.

As I stated in part I of my "Removal of Turbo in preparation of Waste gate mod" thread, this is only one way of doing it. Im sure there are other ways you could go about it. Im no pro, and had no help (apart from jimmy recommending me to mark the turbine housing before disassembly) and did it with only a trolley jack and a selection of spanners and sockets, plenty of liquid refreshemnts and a pen, (blue in color)

I put it all back together and ran it over 100 k's traveld with no problems!, putting the boot in at various stages.

I havnt moded with edit, actuator or cooler yet. I just wanted to do this while I had some time off work so when it comes time to do my other mods im already 2 days infront and have one less thing to do.

Enjoy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Edited 13/03/08 06:54 AM by mrmackie

[gravelrash]

excellent doco there mate. you have done well.

[FPV TRANNY]

Indeed.Good work mate.

[mrmackie]

Thanks guys, not too bad for a hack like me I guess

[MiKa]

So what are the chances of you coming to melb to do mine?? LOL Good work mate I wish I was as brave as you...

[Headsex]

What size actuator did you use?

ohh, and I would have replaced the studs and the nuts..

[XR6 Turbo Developments]

What size actuator did you use?

ohh, and I would have replaced the studs and the nuts..

He used a 12psi (11. garrett actuator.

[mrmackie]

ohh, and I would have replaced the studs and the nuts..

Good advise I guess for those who havnt done it yet. dohhh!

Like I said in my post, the methods and means I used were from a first timer (me) who doesnt do this every day.

Any "professional" experience/advise is more than welcome to be added.

Cheers MM

[mrmackie]

So what are the chances of you coming to melb to do mine?? LOL Good work mate I wish I was as brave as you...

Mate if you have an incling of mechanical knowledge, you should be right. You do need some tools and confidence though, as when I first pulled it apart I thought, geezzz what have I done!! but snapped out of it quickly and found my b*&$s again.

With any guide, mine included, you should be right at tackling it. All the hard work is done, the photos and proceedure is all here, you just need to take your time and beleive in yourself.

Hmm, now I sound like one of those millionare positive speaker types! LOL

Enjoy

[mrmackie]

What size actuator did you use?

As mentioned in my post (Didnt you read?!?! ) I have put the standard act back in. I have a 12lb act from xr6turbodevelopments I will install at a later stage when I fit up my other 'goodies' and get the edit so it can all be done at once.