Removal Of Turbo In Preperation Of Porting And Valve Mod

[mrmackie]

Removal of Turbo in Preparation for porting and larger valve

The removal of the turbo is not rocket science, but for those like me who want to attempt it who haven’t before, this just goes through the motions on one way to go about it.

It might just give you the confidence to attempt it if you’re not sure of something.

Set aside a whole Saturday just to do it comfortably. (It should take around 3 hrs. Im not sure exactly as I was writing this info down on the side)

I did this without a hoist, although I did raise the car slightly with a jack so I could reach the lower/return oil pipe bolts from the sump.

Remove all heatsheilds as described in the sticky ‘Tightening of exhaust manifold bolt’ thread.

Additional info

Water Banjo bolts – 19mm

Oil banjo bolts – 17mm

Turbo dump pipe bolts – 13mm

Turbo to manifold stud/nuts – 14mm

Exhaust compressor bolts – 13mm

While you have the heat shield off, it might pay to tension the lower exhaust manifold bolts to their respective tension (27nm)

You could also lube the actuator solenoid aswell (It is very easy to access without the intake pipe to the turbo)

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Place a suitable catch tray under the engine bay for all the coolant you will drop/loose on the floor. You may want to use it later (for the budget conscientious)

Undo the inside waterline (19mm) banjo bolt. Make sure you catch the coolant underneith. Coolant will slowly start to leak out. Removing the yellow overflow tank cap will increase the flow.

Loosen the small 60mm long rubber pipe connecting the outside turbo water line to the lower water pump line. You may need to crack the seal by rotating the small rubber pipe on the spot with a pair of pliers (Carefully). Once cracked, you can then grip a hold of the pipe firmly and twist and turn it back towards the rear of the engine over the pipe connecting to the turbo, just enough to get the coolant flowing.

Water will absolutely flood out of here so make sure you have covered the back of your alternator with a plastic bag of some sort.

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After approx 20 mins the coolant should have stopped flowing. Now you can strain it into a suitable container for reuse. Note all the sand/dirt the coolant picked up on its way south, so it pays to either use new or strain the coolant before reuse.

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Undo the 17mm oil banjo bolt on top of the turbo. After you remove the bolt, move the line out of the way and reinsert the bolt to stop you loosing it.

Oil will not flow out of here because after you stop your engine, the oil drains back into the sump through the lower oil line.

Remove the lower oil line bolts (2 x 13mm) that are supporting the line on the side of the sump. You will need to get under the car to access these.

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Remove the dump pipe bolts (5 x 13mm). Note, these are very tight so be careful but use force. You may be able to slide out the metal gasket from here, if not don’t worry, it will come out when the bolts connecting the turbo to the exhaust manifold are undone.

NOTE: I always crack all bolts of an assembly, BUT always remove the lower bolts first (where applicable), this give support to whatever you are disassembling from the top.

Remove the ‘Hot’ pipe from the turbo intake compressor (7mm pipe clamp)

Remove Actuator vacuum line.

Remove the turbo from the Manifold. Again these stud/nuts are tight.

Try to crack the top two and lower stud/nut closest to dump pipe.

Using a ratchet spanner (AS pictured) remove the actuator bracket using a. This 13/14mm ratchet spanner is one of the most used tools in my toolbox and works a treat here. For $50 you can buy a set of 3 – 10/12mm, 13/14mm & 15/17mm. I bought mine at Heatly Industrial products. (No, I don’t work for them)

This tool makes removal of the actuator bracket bearable.

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Contrary to what I have printed earlier, remove the top two bolts on the actuator bracket. This helps you reach the lower actuator bracket bolt with the ratchet spanner.

Remove the lower bolt and wiggle the actuator and bracket so you can reach the lower front turbo to manifold stud/nut.

This one is hard to undo, even with the actuator semi out of the way. (Did I hear someone say sledgehammer?!) After you have cracked it, you can use your 14mm ratchet spanner to undo it. Undoing and removing this stud/nut sucks the big one so be prepared to be patient.

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Remove the lower stud/nuts completely.

Remove the top two stud/nuts from the turbo/exhaust manifold. Be careful to support it as you remove them as the turbo will fall slightly and you don’t want to damage anything.

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The turbo should now ‘zig zag’ carefully out under the two oil/water feed lines and back towards the rear of the engine bay.

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It’s late, and im stuffed so will place pics of turbo and how to remove the exhaust housing when I get back from Melbourne in about 10 days. Im there to pick up my intercooler and other goodies.

[JP300]

Nice write up ... It almost makes me want to go out and do it myself.

[ETM]

yeah good article mate.

can I suggest dropping the water from the radiator before you start to avoid getting coolant over everything.

[Headsex]

no need to undo the actuator bolts.. its fine in its position its in :>

Also, with the drivers side water banjo fitting, if you unbolt that, you can manuver it around the bottom of the turbo around the side, and hook it up with a bit of wire to the power steering switch (near the power steering pump) rather than removing that rubber bit. holding it up stops the coolant coming out especially when you under the other water banjo fitting..

once you port ya housing, upload some pics, and I'll give ya some pointers if its going to overboost or not

also, once all the banjos are undone, if you unclip the steel pipes from the front of the engine, it gives you more room removing the turbo (whilst someone else holds the pipe up out the way)

just some pointers.. as people know I've done my fair share of them over the time, and these are the pointers I've picked up

[seventytwo]

You much of this is required to change the Actuator.

[ETM]

about 2% lol

[seventytwo]

So just the Actuator bracket.

[Full Monty]

Great write up, thankyou.

Look forward to seeing the rest!.

Gav

[ETM]

So just the Actuator bracket.

remove the boost line and remove the split pin holding the actuator arm to the wastegate flap

[mrmackie]

no need to undo the actuator bolts.. its fine in its position its in :>

Also, with the drivers side water banjo fitting, if you unbolt that, you can manuver it around the bottom of the turbo around the side, and hook it up with a bit of wire to the power steering switch (near the power steering pump) rather than removing that rubber bit. holding it up stops the coolant coming out especially when you under the other water banjo fitting..

once you port ya housing, upload some pics, and I'll give ya some pointers if its going to overboost or not

also, once all the banjos are undone, if you unclip the steel pipes from the front of the engine, it gives you more room removing the turbo (whilst someone else holds the pipe up out the way)

just some pointers.. as people know I've done my fair share of them over the time, and these are the pointers I've picked up

Thanks guys for your reply's, and 'Headsex' for your tips. I wish I had your tips before I atempted the removal as this was the main reason I posted this one up because I couldnt find any threads on how to, but I guess now its here for people to take what they want from it.

I still have pics and little tips to come, of the removal of the exhaust housing and also of the new port and flapper.

Will post when back from melb around 16/17th march