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sixfan

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  • Dropping a turd
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  • Member For: 16y 5m 1d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth

I reckon you could go 1.05.  Iam at a low 1.08 in my F6, but had crap tyres. BUT I have done 1000s of laps at that track. 

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  • Member For: 16y 7m 9d

I took the F6 back out to Barbagallo yesterday for the Infinite Time Attack event. Pretty good event, mostly jap cars but some of them were bloody rapid. F6 was faster than most though! Lots of traffic so it was difficult to get clean hotlaps. This was my first time on track since getting some work done to the car (2 tunes, venom cat, 1000cc injectors, jonny tig IC, oil pump gears, IMS diff hat). I was running the track tune which is a smooth 335kw at the hubs at 6krpm. It felt bloody good, great power, not wild out of corners and it felt like it would rev way past 6k, but unfortunately I was feeling pretty unwell, and with well worn NT01s and brake fluid that hasn't been changed in 2.5 years I wasn't pushing it hard. Still managed a 1.08.7 long track and 58.7 short track, which was good enough for 10th and 8th outright in each layout. 

 

Big problem was the bloody thing overheated in less than 3 laps and ambient temp was only 19! I've had the car overheat before on track but that was on a 42C day, so understandable. This was really disappointing. The undertray has been removed, I think because the radiator needs to be moved back to fit this IC, so that's gonna be part of the problem as I'm thinking that would create positive air pressure behind the radiator. But that can't be the only thing. I think I've screwed my chances for a larger radiator with this IC... gonna have to figure something out as track days temperatures don't get much milder than this...

 

video of my best lap on each layout. I thought the short track was awesome fun, got to use 2nd gear and skip the frustrating basin.

 

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  • Dropping a turd
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  • Member For: 16y 5m 1d
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  • Location: Perth

You need a large radiator and a large engine oil cooler. Your braking way to early down the hill.

Edited by arronm
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  • Member For: 16y 7m 9d

Yeah, lots of time lost all round, combination of being unwell and not having any confidence left in these tyres, they've been through a lot of events in the last 3 years, way overdue for replacement. I was half a second off the time I set with stock power.

 

I'll look into oil coolers, I noticed oil temp was getting up there too but gauges based on derived values always read wild on track. I should get a proper sensor put in.

 

I've looked into pwr radiators before but read comments about them corroding from coming in contact with the car. I'd probably give it a crack now but I think I'll have to change IC to be able to fit one in... 

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  • Member For: 15y 9m 3d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Sydney

Re: Overheating.

lol

Tell me about it.:)

Even in 19 ambient. Boost is your enemy.

Tried the coolant additives like Water wetter/purple ice but did stuff all. Tried waterless coolant. Same result. You Need to shroud the radiator with foam, remove air con condenser, allow hot air to get out by raising rear of bonnet (I have a custom made spacer (not washers) or bonnet vents via lazer pyrometer hot spotting. Don't disregard oil temps and assume decent oil cooler is fitted with cool air access and thermos fan.  Thermo fan override switch was recently fitted and very effective  allowing manual override. High volume radiator for coolant with cooler thermostat helps too. Water spraying and fans in pits help as well. Onto my 2nd PWR 55mm one. 2nd one fitted more carefully to prevent contact/stray current corrosion. Have also tried fenix and chinese ebay radiators.

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  • Dropping a turd
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  • Member For: 16y 5m 1d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth

Yeh but me and furious don't have slush boxes heating it up. 

Ditch the auto. 

 

My fenix 50mm is 4 years old no issues. 

 

Stray currents kills cooling system components

 

just ask me Wiggum 

 

e85 is your friend for keeping temps down.

Edited by arronm
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  • Member For: 15y 9m 3d
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I agree and use E85 at the circuit. I had a Fenix for a while but it died in a crash and they no longer make them for FG (BF ok with different mounts)

ZF stays cool now with high volume, lower finned sump and does not affect engine temps.

Post above referred to engine coolant and engine oil temps.

The manual thermo fan over ride switch was for the radiator/engine coolant and works really well staging in dummy grid and cool down laps.

Has solved many problems for me as long as the hot air has an escape point via vents.

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