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How Many Kilometres Have You Clocked Up?


HellionXR6T

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  • Member For: 8y 1m 26d
On 29 March 2016 at 11:43 AM, Spoony said:

Is this maybe the highest XR6T that gets a mention?   I noticed Philtaxi commented with more but not sure if that's his taxi or an XR6T? 

 

Mines now on 260,000 odd kms,  late 07 BFii.   320rwkw (DynoDynamics) on LPG and largely due to doing the suspension sometime ago (Bilstiens, all superpro bushes, 2 rate up king springs etc) it still drives better than it did when got it at 100,000kms, and a I feel better than newer FG XR6T's or G6ET's.  Bar the brakes and engine response it's drive/ride/feel is more like  the bosses new FGX XR8.    Finally Ford got some reasonable suspension in these things stock. 

What caused your turbo to go at 250k?  Mine still seems to feel the same as at 100,000km as far as noise, free spin and play goes.  I did remove the turbo oil filter/clogger thingy at 100,000km so not sure if that's helped?

It does seem that these things will steam on for many km's if serviced well.  I change 10-40 nulon synth every 10,000km, I'd do it sooner if it was on Petrol, but LPG is better for oil and engine life. 

Part of me wants to sell it to move onto other things, another part wants to see just how many kms an Aussie built car that can run a low 12 at 116mph with probably about 500 engine hp can do.  

Hi guys, she's just clicked over 375k this last week.... It's been a painful 12 months cause everything's been kinda wearing out on her in the last year! So far in the last 12 months I have done the following:

all new front ball joints, front sway bar links and bushes

new front brake hoses-had custom braided ones made up as nobody in NZ stocked hoses!

new harmonic dampener

new radiator

new r/h engine mount (left one isn't far away)

new rubber hose joiners in the turbo coolant lines

both rear upper outer bushes (the highly stressed ones)

all new links and bushes for rear sway bar

new diff bushes

new wheels (the factory 18's got so work hardened they kept cracking)

new inlet manifold gasket

replaced exhaust manifold bolts with a stud kit and also had 2 threads helicoiled at the same time.

full diff and Trans service as it was due

all new brake pads

new Power steering hose from the pump

 

that's about it.........aside from the alternator is bound to need replacing by now. My loose calculation based on 7hrs runtime per tankful has that alternator at 2.625 MILLION hours runtime from new, so when you look at these Barra motors from hours of runtime, the massive km the Aussie taxi drivers get before major tear down is even more impressive.

 

when she hits 500km I'm going to treat her to new valve springs and maybe a mild tune, but that said she's been so bloody reliable it's not funny. I've owned her since 2007 and she was 2 yrs old when I got her so 300k is what I have put on her. She still gets elf excellium 5/30 fully synthetic oil every 10-12k along with a filter, and the oil that comes out is almost as clean as what I put in to replace it! This next one will probably shock a few people, and I've certainly had debates about it over the last 3 years, but when my original turbo let go at 250km (was purely old age-it got compressor droop), I removed that factory oil screen in the oil feed line and just hooked it all back up-lots of people swear by those aftermarket inline oil filters, but the truth is IF you look after your baby they are redundant as the oil feed to the turbo is directly from the main filter.  My current turbo has done 125km with no in line filter, and whilst some people swear by them, my own opinion is they are an unnecessary expense. Anyway, that's up to the individual. Now let's see if I can upload a pic of the clocks to back up the kms!

 

can anyone advise how ya upload a pic here from an iPad lol....

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here's how to put pics up via an ipad (or any device, really)... tapafark is lame (even if it is "easy" for some things) ->  http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/92470-how-to-put-images-in-your-post/

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1 hour ago, Green Goblin said:

new wheels (the factory 18's got so work hardened they kept cracking)

 

 

I didn't know this was a thing!  Glad I'm on my third set of wheels now :) 

 

It's not fun when they need to go in to a shop but it's worth it overall I'm sure you'll agree!  I just spent $6k on a big list of maintenance stuff, but I also had them fit an IMs diff hat in that as well (bought separately, so $7k all up).   Spaced out over the years of ownership it's cheaper than buying a new car anyway.  So glad I paid it off back in 2013.

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Yea mate, it's been a bit hard on the pocket-10k in the last 12 months is a lot for most people to find, and in years gone by I coulda done 95% of the work myself however my age caught up,as did an old work injury and consequently the only people I let near her are Ford (I'm a retired pedantic engineer). When you divide the cost over the years I've owned her it's still around 1k a yr maintenance costs which is pretty damn good, it's just a pain it all came at once lol.

As for the cracking rims, it was the only explanation I could come up with, as it got worse as the kms got higher-I musta welded up close to 12 cracks in my wheels in the last 3 years before I replaced them-it seemed like even changing the tyres would crack them on the inside edge! A number of tyre shops told me it was common in fords and Holden's with stock 18" or bigger rims, and eventually I had enough so I bough a set of 5 new wheels for her.

And yes I'm dyslexic and can't wait to find out how the hell u turn this crap off


I'm dyslexic and cannot turn off simple functions in tapatalk
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9 hours ago, Green Goblin said:

This next one will probably shock a few people, and I've certainly had debates about it over the last 3 years, but when my original turbo let go at 250km (was purely old age-it got compressor droop), I removed that factory oil screen in the oil feed line and just hooked it all back up-lots of people swear by those aftermarket inline oil filters, but the truth is IF you look after your baby they are redundant as the oil feed to the turbo is directly from the main filter.  My current turbo has done 125km with no in line filter, and whilst some people swear by them, my own opinion is they are an unnecessary expense. Anyway, that's up to the individual. Now let's see if I can upload a pic of the clocks to back up the kms!

 

 

Really lots of those things you listed earlier are general wear an tear on any vehicle. 

 

As for the above, 100% agree.  The turbo oil feed is after the standard filter.  There a plenty of turbo setups that don't have a special inline filter for the turbo.   I remember reading somewhere, possibly hear-say though, that the small mesh filter was only a run in precaution that Garrett recommended, and that it could (should?) be removed later. 

 

I've run 170,000km  (at 270,000km) without any inline filtered,  still on original turbo, still same amount of play as at 100,000km and still spins down for just as long when turning it off.   Interesting you needed a turbo at 250,000km.  As they are generally very under stressed on this engines I would have expected the original still to be going now on yours.  It makes one ponder if leaving that screen filter in caused premature failure? 

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Well, I've heard of lots of them letting go prematurely because of that mesh filter blocking up and starving the turbo bearings, but no, mine was a simple case of compressor droop (which also isn't uncommon on them so I have read). I could hear a handful of vanes on the compressor wheel "tinging" on the snail about 2 days before it let go as the turbo spooled down. When it let go the bent shaft actually caused the bearing cartridge to shift out of place toward the snail and thus the compressor wheel foul on the snail. I was 100km from home at the time and it wasn't blowing any smoke out back,just lost its power and sounded like a bag of spanners if I pushed the motor over 1800rpm, so I nursed it all the way home, it never used a drop of oil the whole way, when I got the turbo off I smacked it down on the workbench and the bearing cartridge inside relocated itself. But yep the shaft had a small bend in it. I pulled that little oil screen out at the same time and it wasn't blocked so was 100% compressor droop that caused it.

As for all the other stuff, yep I'm not complaining as it's all wear and tear, it's just painful in the pocket when it's 10k all at once.

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I personally don't like the route the standard oil feed line takes. 

I've got mine going across the front of the head and over to the header tank then down to the turbo. 

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Mine passes through the firewall into the cabin then across the cluster cover overhang through an aviation grade strengthened glass pipe section so I can watch my oil get darker as I thrash the ever living sh*t out of the car.  

 

Do recommend!

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