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Water/methanol Injection


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  • Member For: 15y 2m 30d
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BJC,

Thanks for the photos.

It looks like this location requires the relocation of the air cleaner box and therefore, the battery??

As far as I can see, if the air cleaner sits in the factory position, there's nowhere else inside the engine bay to locate a water bottle. Let me know if I am wrong and if any of you have found somewhere to locate the bottle, please post pics.

PAH

Edited by PAH
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  • Member For: 20y 7m 14d
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  • Location: Townsville

Plenty of room in both guards but you will need some sort of goose neck to fit the bottle (nearly 4lt with snow? ) or just buy a large windscreen washer bottle with the goose neck. Kits have a low level light anyway via a float system.

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  • Member For: 16y 8m 27d
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  • Location: Darwin

The solenoid is for if mounting higher than the jet or boot install it stops the line from drip feeding the intake.

The pump itself stops the water from draining back. I would hope that your pump then has some sort of recirculation as the pump would be under pressure with nothing keeping it cool otherwise (like an inline fuel pump gets fresh cold fuel continuously from the tank).

That is true but apparently it is only a problem if in continuous use such as track days. Otherwise the pump should switch off when not in use. If doing track days then they recommend a fan on the pump. I've done this so it has a fan blowing onto the pump in my setup.

This is all in theory based on what I have read. Mine isn't installed yet. I'll get started this weekend

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  • 1 month later...
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  • Member For: 16y 8m 27d
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Ok I'm up to the bit where I splice into the injector. here is the diagram:

post-12481-0-12483800-1427896293_thumb.j

So where do you reckon the best place is to link into the injector pulse wire. Is it off ecu or piggyback of back of one of the injectors.

Manual is here for full info

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/HFS3/manual/HFS3-v3.0w.pdf

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Hi Guys,

Not a fan of buying stuff off the internet. I prefer to shop over the counter so I can go back to the retailer if I need to. So who sells the Snow Performance Water Injection kits in Sydney? Check this out:

Google: Gumtree Edward Lee Methanol Injection System. A kit (probably basic) is advertised for $250.

I'd paste the url but this web site won't let me do that. And the Gum Tree url is just under 55m long.

Plan B: Go to gumtree.com.au and use their search engine. Type in methanol injection. Gumtree wants users to sign up to get the phone number for the seller. It's Edward Lee at 71-75 Parramatta Rd Concord. Phone 02 8279 7030.

Oops. This is a 2nd hand kit. Sorry. It'd be nice if he sold new kits. My mistake.

PAH

Edited by PAH
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  • 2 weeks later...
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  • Member For: 16y 8m 27d
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ok so continuing on from my question above, I had the aquamist guy confirm the wiring for the ecu wire. he said

the green wire goes to injector negative (pulse) anywhere on the line is fine unless there is a restrictor pack for the injector. the red wire turns the kit on and is best hooked up to a 12V ECU referenced line that turns on when the ECU goes live, hence the injector positive or other similar wire.

He also said that the blue wire was optional as a trigger for the system to start at a boost point rather then a IDC point (42% by default). Then it sprays according to IDC after that anyway. I see no benefit with having it start from a boost reference rather then IDC reference so I might skip that. What do you guys think?

So regarding the injector wire (green) do we have resister pack on our injectors and if not, which colour is the negative (pulse) wire?

Regarding the red wire, I assume I can just connect it to any ACC wire because I assume that is when the ECU starts up. I'd like to avoid splicing into any further injector wires if I can help it.

What do you guys think?

Edited by norrs
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  • Member For: 16y 8m 27d
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Ok. Mofos, I've finished the install. I just need a tune now. I only have water in it for now. Will buy some methanol Monday then take it to tuner. Aquamist is a complicated install and I'm yet to do the failsafes, that it even more complicated.

I'm not sure about running it before I take it to my tuner, even though I'm on a lean tune right now and it may benefit from the water on full boost. My tuner said my current tune is too lean, so it may actually be safer with the water on.

I'll do a write up on a different thread on the install. But here is a teaser:

post-12481-142935014462_thumb.jpg

post-12481-142935016326_thumb.jpg

post-12481-142935018542_thumb.jpg

Yes I have some tidying up to do but it is getting there.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

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  • MattyP
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  • Member For: 11y 11m 14d
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That looks great mate

I personally would not worry about the meth if your using it for protection purposes only.

Can't wait to see the results.

Wiring looks very complicated though

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  • Member For: 16y 8m 27d
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Ok I'll ask this question here but if I get no takers I may have to start a topic again.

I need to set up the failsafe now. On a flash system it appears that my only option is to bleed boost if the meth fails.

I assume that our wastegate solenoid is really just an electric boost solenoid run by the ecu. From what I can gather the system I have has an inbuilt relay that opens and closes the connection if there are injection issues. Basically you cut the pulse wire to the solenoid and run it through the system.

Anyway what I need to know is if anyone knows the colour of the correct pulse wire for the wastegate solenoid. And I welcome any comments about whether any of my lay assumptions are incorrect.

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Ok looking at this wiring diagram for a BF (mine is FG) I guess the pulse wire for the waste gate solenoid is White and red. Ie if this wire is disconnected then the wastegate would open to purge the boost.

post-12481-0-64703000-1429795189_thumb.j

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